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3 Sisters Garden, 2024, Year 2

 
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May Lotito wrote:
The late planted corns are growing fine, although the ears are only inches off the ground on some shorter stalks. The color is gorgeous.

I only have less than 400 sq ft of regular garden area since I can't get enough organic matters to keep more area properly mulched year round. This solarize-and-plant method works very well so far, I will have more space to grow corns next year. After all, it is like nine months of cover cropping and three months of gardening.



That's purple sweet corn? Had some purple ears but most was yellow or white this year. My fingers were black after eating a few purple ears and it didn't wash off for days.

Love that pic of the ground cover clovers.

Since I stopped tilling starting to see white and red clover creeping in. Happy to see it.
 
Thom Bri
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Shelled about 80 pounds (35+ kilos) of corn by hand.

In the main tomato season now, and getting lots of beans, soybeans for edamame, a few cantaloupe, lots of zucchinis, and assorted greens. Very dry, no rain since the first few days of September, but everything still looks fine so far. Sometimes get light frost in late September, so enjoy it all while it lasts!

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The purple corns are developing fungal disease rapidly so I harvested a few morado corn ears as sweet corns. Some are already in the dough stage. The Martian Jewels are mostly in blister stage so they will be ready in a week or so. The tasseling periods of the two overlapped but I don't see any mosaic kernel colors.
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Earworm
Earworm
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4 row corn
4 row corn
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Martian Jewel
Martian Jewel
 
Thom Bri
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Zucchini seeds on the vine for next year. Two varieties, one bush one vine.
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Thom Bri
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Tobacco. It comes up volunteer.

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Thom Bri
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The beans are having a late-season boom. I pick until I get bored picking, not until I get all the beans. I don't care if I miss a lot and they get 'too old'. In that case we shell them and eat them as beans, not green beans. There are several varieties of climbing and bush beans, and this year there is a new climbing bean that appears to be a cross between the purple and green beans. Color is a very faint purple. Had poor early growth this year. Planted too early. Have already gotten enough for next year's seeds.

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Thom Bri
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Oats. Not planted. Came up through the straw I spread for mulch. I have a weird liking for oats. No idea why, but interested in them and like to grow a few every year for no particular reason. Have never tried processing and eating the ones I grow, but we eat a lot of oats.
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Thom Bri
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Flowers planted a few years ago and now volunteering. If you don't till, and hoe and weed carefully, you can get all sorts of nice volunteers.
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Nice...this year we had a volunteer tomato or two that actually produced and a couple volunteer ground cherries (known as golden berry in Peru).  Based on a lack of harvesting, I expect we will have volunteer tomatillos and radishes next year.

Earlier today I took photos of our dry bean harvest, but haven't yet gotten them off the camera.
 
Thom Bri
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234 lbs of corn or 4.18 bushels. Not including the corn I still have on the cob saved for seed. Will weigh that and recalculate some other day. Going to work now.

3000 square feet is about 7% of an acre. So, 4.18 bushels divided by .07 acres equals 59.7 bushels per acre.

Last year's result was 57.7 bushels/acre.

Last year I did use NPK fertilizer, this year none. Last year was very dry, this year good rains well-spaced. Last year no wind lodging, this year 50% of the stalks were blown flat (but most still produced good ears). Last year serious ear worm and bird damage, this year much less.

All numbers were rounded so the final result is an estimate. Next time I get a day off work I will remeasure the garden size, reweigh everything, eliminate the weight of the containers, include the weight of saved seed, and try to eliminate all the other fudge factors, but the final result should be very close to what I have here.
 
Thom Bri
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Derek Thille wrote:Nice...this year we had a volunteer tomato or two that actually produced and a couple volunteer ground cherries (known as golden berry in Peru).  Based on a lack of harvesting, I expect we will have volunteer tomatillos and radishes next year.

Earlier today I took photos of our dry bean harvest, but haven't yet gotten them off the camera.



Love to see the pics!

I always have way more volunteer tomatoes than I need or my wife wants. The trick is to decide where in the garden you want tomatoes, then throw all the damaged or rotten tomatoes in that area. Next time you are there, step on them to squash them and spread the seeds around. No planting or burying seeds needed. Then next spring just watch for the sprouts when weeding. They often come up in clumps so pull out the smaller ones and let only one or two grow. Then when 6-12 inches tall pull them up by the roots and replant wherever you want them. I leave most of them alone and by midsummer they are taking over the garden. Right now I have a solid tomato ground cover over about half of my garden space.

To replant, bury them laying down with the roots at the bottom and only the leaf tips at the very top exposed. Water then and a few more times. Over time you will end up with mostly cherry tomatoes unless you make a serious effort to keep other varieties.
 
Derek Thille
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Two slightly different views for perspective.  The varieties with puny harvest were directly in the soil (dirt perhaps...somewhat at least) whereas the better harvests were planted in beds which are the same soil covered in about 4" of compost (commercial, certified organic, but not that great).  There are a few more beans finishing up drying and then She Who Must Be Obeyed wants to weigh them.  If I remember correctly, there are a total of 11 varieties - one was a free gift.  Some packets were 25 seeds, others were 50.  All are heirloom varieties from Heritage Harvest Seeds.  Their web site states they are the largest heirloom seed provider in Canada and they happen to be in our back yard.  I'm enjoying the variety of plants we can get from them.  I noticed they have now curated a 3 sisters mix of corn, beans, and squash with a bit of a discount compared to buying the three individually.

Back row (taller jars) left to right - dragon tongue (typically used as a snap bean younger), Steeves caseknife, Ukrainian comrade (yellow and green pods yielding two different colours of bean), red peanut, light brown zebra, molasses face.  Middle - Annie Jackson, great northern, Hopi black.  Front - Canadian wild goose, orca.  The lid on the left contains some dragon tongue that had pretty much inverse colouring - the wife wants to plant those to see what happens with coloration.

We had our first frost this morning, well over 2 weeks later than our average first fall frost, so we've been intent on harvesting the sensitive stuff.  I just set up tomatoes on a dehydrator to ultimately powder which can then be reconstituted into sauce or paste or added to soups, stews, etc.

I love your description of planting volunteers.  I don't want to count on volunteers though as our frost-free season is short enough that it would be a challenge for them to produce.  We did get a few fruit from volunteers this year, but nothing like the ones I started indoors.
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2024 Bean harvest
2024 Bean harvest
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2024 Bean harvest
2024 Bean harvest
 
Thom Bri
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Derek Thille wrote:


We had our first frost this morning, well over 2 weeks later than our average first fall frost, so we've been intent on harvesting the sensitive stuff.  I just set up tomatoes on a dehydrator to ultimately powder which can then be reconstituted into sauce or paste or added to soups, stews, etc.

I love your description of planting volunteers.  I don't want to count on volunteers though as our frost-free season is short enough that it would be a challenge for them to produce.  We did get a few fruit from volunteers this year, but nothing like the ones I started indoors.



We are expecting first frost this coming Sunday. I hope not but really this is a bit later than some years. Late September isn't very unusual here in N Illinois. Snow in October isn't impossible; I remember trick-or-treating in knee-high snow ( was much shorter then). I can see where volunteer tomatoes could be a very risky proposition in your climate. We have had bountiful tomatoes for a couple of weeks, but prior to that only a few at a time. Everything except the corn seems to be running late this year. Cooler nights all season is my guess.

I have a dehydrator but honestly have not used it in years. My wife sometimes uses a mesh bag type solar dehydrator but I have not seen it this year. I should get them out and follow your idea with the tomatoes. Serious waste if not used.
 
Derek Thille
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To be transparent, it wasn't an original idea to powder tomatoes...I came across it somewhere, possibly YouTube.  It makes sense to me since it takes less space and doesn't require ongoing electricity like freezing.  That said, reconstituting does take a bit of time so it isn't grainy, so grabbing a jar of diced tomatoes or sauce can be more convenient.
 
Thom Bri
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Selected my corn seed for next year. The pic shows all the ears I selected from. Some ears only gave a few seeds, others many. Standards were:

Purple leaves, cobs and seeds. Goal is to increase anthocyanins and carotenes. Purple with yellow endosperm was top choice. The purple is claimed to be a nutritional factor. It is also claimed to resist insects and diseases, cold and drought. Mr. Lofthouse has often said too much purple leads to lower production, and I believe he is right. The more energy the plant pours into resistance factors the less it has left over to produce seeds. However, my goal is not maximum production, but maximum reliability.

No or very low levels of dent and sweet corn seeds on that cob. Dent and sweet corn is Okay for my corn flour, but much more vulnerable to insect damage. Dent corn is also a symptom of unwanted crosses from the neighbor's hybrid corn.

Low to no insect or bird damage. This year was a very low insect damage year so not much to choose from. I can't recall seeing more than one or two ear worms, and then only in the very last ears I harvested. Birds however were a much worse problem and a lot of good, big ears got left out from next year's seed.

Long, fully pollinated ears with sturdy stems and cobs and large seeds. No or few red cobs. White cob is Okay, purple preferred. Large seeds are easier to shell by hand than small seeds.

Plan for next year is to have two rows of 'second class' seeds. Those are from smaller but perfect ears, deeply colored ears, glass gem and glass gem crosses. Anything really that wasn't my ideal but is still useful or interesting enough to keep in the mix.

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Thom Bri
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Dug out my left over corn seeds from last year and found quite a few weevils. Not surprised, had lots of weevils that came in with some corn I bought, and they got out of control. What I am happy about is that they were not successful in destroying all the seed.

Two thoughts. Plant back some of the surviving seeds in hopes that what they didn't manage to destroy has some intrinsic anti-weevil factor. The hard flint seeds are supposed to resist weevils. And, the anthocyanins that make it colored are also anti-insect. Dent corn, and yellow and white corn, and sweet corn are all more susceptible.

Second thought is to leave some of my 2024 selected seeds for next year loose in paper bags and see what happens. Let the weevils proliferate and plant what doesn't get destroyed. I have noticed that when left on the ear the weevils will totally infest some ears and completely leave other ears alone. By chance? Or, are there reasons as mentioned above?
 
Derek Thille
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Thom Bri wrote:Purple leaves, cobs and seeds. Goal is to increase anthocyanins and carotenes. Purple with yellow endosperm was top choice. The purple is claimed to be a nutritional factor. It is also claimed to resist insects and diseases, cold and drought. Mr. Lofthouse has often said too much purple leads to lower production, and I believe he is right. The more energy the plant pours into resistance factors the less it has left over to produce seeds. However, my goal is not maximum production, but maximum reliability.



I can't speak to corn, but we've seen less insect damage on purple (red) cabbage than green.  I find it fascinating that it may apply to other crops as well.
 
Thom Bri
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Derek Thille wrote:

Thom Bri wrote:
I can't speak to corn, but we've seen less insect damage on purple (red) cabbage than green.  I find it fascinating that it may apply to other crops as well.



I have read quite a few papers where the issue was studied and they pretty much confirm that anthocyanins are resistance factors. But I can't quite shake the feeling that it is confirmation bias. The researchers all seem to really want to find benefits, nutritional and others for the colorants, that I wonder if they are not fooling themselves.

 
May Lotito
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How are the bee hives doing in the garden? Are squashes the main food source for them? I see fewe honey bees on my corns but long-honed bees are crazy over the the pollens.

 
Thom Bri
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May Lotito wrote:How are the bee hives doing in the garden? Are squashes the main food source for them? I see fewe honey bees on my corns but long-honed bees are crazy over the the pollens.



4 hives are alive in the garden, 7 in my back yard. I see honey bees on the squash sometimes but the bumble bees seem more active. I was surprised this year to see the honey bees very active taking the corn pollen. Usually they are not so interested in corn pollen. I am guessing there was a temporary shortage of other pollens just as the corn tasseled.

I didn't take a lot of honey but the smaller hives will need some sugar food to tide them over the winter. Most hives are fairly small since they were started this year. I mostly don't treat for mites except a few of the larger hives, so I expect 50% of the hives to fail over the winter. Some years better, some worse. If you don't treat for mites the colonies are weaker and don't build up populations very fast, and don't survive winters.

By the way, tonight is supposed to be the first hard frost. Until now it has only been very light frosts, so even the squash and tomatoes were unaffected. Only a few of the most exposed plants frosted. But expecting to see a heavy kill this morning. I will collect the last sad few zucchinis.

Last year winter was very nice, and I was able to get all my spring prep done before the new year. Hoping to get a lot done this fall, but predictions are for a much colder winter this year. Either way is Okay. Hard freezes are good for the soil and kill a lot of bugs.
 
Thom Bri
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All done in the garden. 2 hard frosts ended the squash, zucchini, beans, cantaloupes and tomatoes. Picked the last harvest in the morning. Dug a few potatoes and may get a few more, if I can find where they are buried!

The last ear of corn. This one was planted by a gopher in a flower bed. All alone so completely self-pollinated. I was surprised it pollinated so well. Just harvested 2 days ago.
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Thom Bri
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Unloved pumpkins.
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Thom Bri
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Final figures. Remeasured the garden, got 3024 square feet. That works out to 6.94% of one acre.

Weighed all the corn and subtracted the weight of the containers. Got 230 Lbs. At 56 Lbs./bushel that is 4.11 bushels.

4.11/.0694=59.18

59.18 bushels/acre
 
May Lotito
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How much fertilizers did you put in the first year of the three sister garden? Did the numbers match up with nutrients removed in the harvests? Do you plan on skipping input in the following years to see how long the fertility lasts?
 
Thom Bri
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May Lotito wrote:How much fertilizers did you put in the first year of the three sister garden? Did the numbers match up with nutrients removed in the harvests? Do you plan on skipping input in the following years to see how long the fertility lasts?



2023 I put NPK and Gypsum on each hill in the spring. It wasn't measured, just a shake from the can. No other chems were used. Grass and straw used as mulch.

Over the winter I saved fireplace ash and charcoal and kitchen waste and dumped it on many of the hills, concentrating on the area of the garden with the poorest soil, a hard red clay. About 1/3 of the hills got some. Some got more than one bucket. We burn most nights from late November through March, so quite a lot of ash. I think some hills got too much ash because the hills most heavily coated seemed to have poorer germination and early growth. The poor hills also got buckets of good soil dumped on top over the winter and spring. Probably won't do much of that going forward, a lot of work!

2024 no chems, no NPK or Gypsum. Poorer hills got straw or grass mulch. Also the edges got mulch to try to hold back the invasive grasses.

Plan for 2025 is similar. Fireplace ash and charcoal over the winter, no NPK or other chems. Mulch. I hope to keep this going as long as I can to see how production holds up.

I have not tried to calculate how much fertility I am removing. Just the corn would be easy since it is carefully weighed. But also growing a mess of other crops in between the corn and it would be nearly impossible to figure out how much is being taken out. My main concern would be Phosphorous.

N is being replaced by cover crops and precipitation and grass mulch. K is in ash. I am allowing various 'weeds' to grow more or less freely. This year lots of purslane, mallow, dandelions, red and white clover etc were left to grow from mid-summer on. In the spring I weeded quite a lot to give the crops a chance to get going better and also provide mulch. Both the last two years have had heavy green weed/tomato/squash/bean cover over the entire garden by fall. So I hope and expect production to remain good.

 
May Lotito
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I was able to harvest mature cobs from the morado corns, while Martian Jewels got caught up with fungal infection and they were only good as sweet corns. I also bought a 3-pack of ornamental Indian corns from the store. Can I grow those seeds? From the color and appearance,  they seem to be hybrids.
IMG_20241103_200905.jpg
Corns
Corns
 
Thom Bri
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May Lotito wrote:I was able to harvest mature cobs from the morado corns, while Martian Jewels got caught up with fungal infection and they were only good as sweet corns. I also bought a 3-pack of ornamental Indian corns from the store. Can I grow those seeds? From the color and appearance,  they seem to be hybrids.



I doubt it, no point. Hybrids are crosses of very tightly inbred lines, and the offspring tend to look exactly alike. These look like three different varieties. The outside two appear to be flint, and the middle one flint/dent. No reason not to plant them unless you are terrified of accidentally getting some GMO crosses. Stick with the flint seeds and separate out the dent seeds to reduce the chance of some hybrid GMO sneaking in. I'd plant some.
 
Thom Bri
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Started writing my paper. This is in reply to Dr. Sissel Schroeder's

Maize Productivity in the Eastern Woodlands and Great Plains of North America
https://d1wqtxts1xzle7.cloudfront.net/76185017/SchroederAmAnt1999-libre.pdf?1639342556=&response-content-disposition=inline%3B+filename%3DMaize_Productivity_in_the_Eastern_Woodla.pdf&Expires=1731477461&Signature=MZ4Wy78lFrA1KLyVhqePDrIVV85ox-agkkpDlQHS5cAkVrSyLARMwCqXGe2Ojh~edRbI-1fg-0Kyp15kdxjMkekNbjM2YqwNI7Nn4ukGdn4DoQWhyYvbMTbCiS8t~Lndz7Zzrj7wjazSykxSDAd8cjdfDUU6BSjHynt9UWF4VJhDwu681EY8P0dOPmjZX3-H19CCaMGlYnmyv0Drt5QmabWbr5RgRJqfyYPPGXslNRYNp6pbPNB1sntr82NmwrMtb3RFN9m-iYAL~NbkM0iIaVuNQyMOMNqCYIp5DmMHKR0IAG4zhBFppGplNIyt6v0r01PwN1553-6qamsLFGuOAg__&Key-Pair-Id=APKAJLOHF5GGSLRBV4ZA
 
May Lotito
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Hi Thom, the article is with restricted access and the link doesn't work.

In the ebook about the Agriculture of Hidatsa Indian, I can't find the documentation about corn yield, but it was usually sufficient to last the family till next year's harvest. They also noted the yield was the highest in new ground, second year nearly as good and going down from the third year on and the land was eventually left to fallow for two years to restore fertility.  I haven't finished reading the whole book but found the details very interesting.
 
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May Lotito wrote:Hi Thom, the article is with restricted access and the link doesn't work.

In the ebook about the Agriculture of Hidatsa Indian, I can't find the documentation about corn yield, but it was usually sufficient to last the family till next year's harvest. They also noted the yield was the highest in new ground, second year nearly as good and going down from the third year on and the land was eventually left to fallow for two years to restore fertility.  I haven't finished reading the whole book but found the details very interesting.



Hmm. Wonder why. I was able to just click the link from Google Scholar and it opens right up.

Essentially, her argument based on 19th century records is that Native Americans probably got 10 bushels per acre, up to 18 on average. Earlier writers speculated averages were 20-30, based on white farmer's averages in the same era. There was a long series of back and forth arguing by different researchers who were rather sarcastic with each other in their various papers. Only 3 or 4 actually attempted to grow corn using native techniques. So I decided to try it. So far I have gotten 57 and 59 bushels per acre using only hand tools.
 
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May Lotito wrote:Hi Thom, the article is with restricted access and the link doesn't work.

In the ebook about the Agriculture of Hidatsa Indian, I can't find the documentation about corn yield, but it was usually sufficient to last the family till next year's harvest. They also noted the yield was the highest in new ground, second year nearly as good and going down from the third year on and the land was eventually left to fallow for two years to restore fertility.  I haven't finished reading the whole book but found the details very interesting.



Thanks for the link May.  My heirloom seed supplier has a couple varieties of bean with Hidatsa in the name (as I recall), so they are quite likely linked to that group.  Another rabbit hole to go down.

Hidatsa Shield Figure Bean noted as being grown in ND (which our acreage isn't that far north of).

Hidatsa Red Bean - seems to be a vining variety.

 
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Derek Thille wrote:

May Lotito wrote:Hi Thom, the article is with restricted access and the link doesn't work.

In the ebook about the Agriculture of Hidatsa Indian, I can't find the documentation about corn yield, but it was usually sufficient to last the family till next year's harvest. They also noted the yield was the highest in new ground, second year nearly as good and going down from the third year on and the land was eventually left to fallow for two years to restore fertility.  I haven't finished reading the whole book but found the details very interesting.



Thanks for the link May.  My heirloom seed supplier has a couple varieties of bean with Hidatsa in the name (as I recall), so they are quite likely linked to that group.  Another rabbit hole to go down.

Hidatsa Shield Figure Bean noted as being grown in ND (which our acreage isn't that far north of).

Hidatsa Red Bean - seems to be a vining variety.



That book about Hidatsa agriculture is one of my main go-to guides for my corn garden. Well worth reading more than once.
 
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Of interest if looking to buy land

https://www.landandfarm.com/
 
May Lotito
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The soil productivity index map from USDA. The corn and wheat belts are so blessed with fertile soils.
National-PI-map.png
Lower48 PI map
Lower48 PI map
Screenshot_20241118_195201_OneDrive.jpg
Midwest 11 states PI map
Midwest 11 states PI map
 
Derek Thille
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Thom Bri wrote:Of interest if looking to buy land

https://www.landandfarm.com/



Now there's a rabbit warren to get lost in....
 
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First snow of the winter, and it will be a few degrees of frost tonight. I built this today, hoping to keep my greens alive a few more weeks.

greenhouse-2024.jpg
[Thumbnail for greenhouse-2024.jpg]
mini-greenhouse.jpg
[Thumbnail for mini-greenhouse.jpg]
 
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May Lotito wrote:The soil productivity index map from USDA. The corn and wheat belts are so blessed with fertile soils.



This sent me down a rabbit hole.
Link to the USDA Web Soil Survey. Want to know your soil type? It is ridiculously granular, at least in the midwest.
https://websoilsurvey.nrcs.usda.gov/app/HomePage.htm?TARGET_APP=Web_Soil_Survey_application_2fpc3ds0qyf342smpjh31nuw

Turns out my garden is Argyle silt loam. 50 feet away is Ogle silt loam.
 
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I ground the very last of last years crop today, and a bit of this years. Starting next time I grind corn, it will be all from the 2024 crop. It was about 80 pounds total, after I threw away 18 pounds that had been too badly infested by weevils.
 
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Thom Bri wrote:First snow of the winter, and it will be a few degrees of frost tonight. I built this today, hoping to keep my greens alive a few more weeks.


Are the plants with purple flowers okra or just hibiscus? They look very healthy.
 
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Thom Bri wrote:

Essentially, her argument based on 19th century records is that Native Americans probably got 10 bushels per acre, up to 18 on average. Earlier writers speculated averages were 20-30, based on white farmer's averages in the same era. There was a long series of back and forth arguing by different researchers who were rather sarcastic with each other in their various papers. Only 3 or 4 actually attempted to grow corn using native techniques. So I decided to try it. So far I have gotten 57 and 59 bushels per acre using only hand tools.



The yield would be related to the local soil and weather conditions as well as native people's life style. Corn, squash and legume are the staple crops among various tribes, but the yield varied considerably.  Historically , Ozark people lived in  southern Missouri and they were hunters and gatherers too. They planted the corns and left for hunting bison in upper prairie and came back when the corns were milking. There were also abundance of wild fruits available: hazelnuts, black walnuts, pawpaws, persimmons, lotus roots etc. I don't know the yield but given that European settlers in the Ozark area in the 1920's only got 20-25 bushels per acre, the number from Osage people would be much lower. It's not that they were lacking the skills, but that they were less dependent on farming for food source, besides, the lower soil fertility was restricting the yield potential as well. Even now, the Ozark region has little row crop farming and the cleared lands are mostly pastures and hay fields.
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