Scots John wrote:That really does look cool,I would love to see a walk around video?
Kiln dried wood only has a low moisture content for as long as it is not exposed to moisture, perhaps try a different batch of wood, hardwood maybe?
I would assume the water is condensation caused by moisture inside the stove, so the moisture has to come from somewhere.
I know that fire bricks can hold a lot of water but after 5 burns it should at least be diminishing.
Peter van den Berg wrote:Eric, it might be that the temperature of the exhaust gases is not high enough. As Michael explained, the process of wood combustion generates quite a lot of water. In case the exhaust gas temperature is too low, condensation will occur inside the heater or chimney. There are two ways to counter this effect: implementing a drain or raising the end temperature. Keep in mind these condensation fluid is slightly acidic, not every material is able to cope with that for years on end.
In short: maybe you built the extracting side of this heater too effective?
As an aside: is there any particular reason why you made the port less wide and full firebox height? In the past I found out this isn't the best configuration, efficiency- and pollution-wise.
Eric Kendall wrote:Hello Peter, thanks for the advice. I'm hopeful that it's only water from the refractory castings. As I mentioned to Scots, it seems to be abating somewhat, so I'll just keep my fingers crossed.
Eric Kendall wrote:The only reason that I changed the port configuration was for the ease of manufacture. I kept a similar CSA, but if you advise that using the original dimensions would be preferred, I can easily widen the port and reduce the height with appropriate inserts. I don't have a Testo, but it seems to burn extremely clean. No soot build up in the firebox and the glass stays clear and the bricks stay white. The output from the flue seems to show signs of water vapor, but no other coloring.
Eric Kendall wrote:I'm also pretty happy with the fact that I don't need to use the top by-pass valve for cold starts. This is really the only reason that I included it. I'm quite surprised that it draws down 4 metres and makes the exit through the lower valve from a cold start. The actual flue outlet is around 7.5 metres above the heater outlet. It has a small horizontal run of a couple of metres.
Joe Danielek wrote:Nice craftsmanship, piece of art! Love the fact that it’s built from new materials.
Peter is right, too efficient... exhaust stream not warm enough or more correctly the assembly bottom isn’t getting up to exhaust temp as being exposed to ambient temperatures at the floor setting up a sustained flue gas condensation situation. Peter is right again that the “condensation fluid” is acidic: I assume you used ferrous material for your build that acid likes to eat. Get some litmus paper and check the condensate P.H. to see how aggressive it might be.
Joe Danielek wrote:
You mentioned a by-pass, is it located in the top horizontal flue Tee or the adjoining flange connection, hard to tell as expanding the picture shows some camera shake and can’t make out the fasteners. I assume it’s there and is a flue damper as there is no blast gate? Having to not use the by-pass with a cold startup kind of tells me your by-pass is by-passing in the closed position. Checking your bottom flue connection temp against your final discharge temp at the roof during a sustained firing with indicated if this is happening.