I've discussed the drawknife already, but a little more information on it.
This design is based on a Japanese drawknife called a "sen". It is not single beveled, but double beveled, and the design of the handle allows it to be used both pulling and pushing. It has some versatility that a western drawknife doesn't but it lacks in efficiency and is incapable of many things.
In any case the blade is way too wide.
Peter Ellis wrote:
You want clear wood with as straight a grain as possible for making axe handles. That's one thing. You want to saw the kerf for your wedges. Driving a chisel into end grain is a splitting technique, you will split your handle doing that. Your wedge wants to push the handle against the sides of the axe eye, not the ends, so make your cut for your wedge in line with the axe edge, not perpendicular to it. You get much more are for pressure and friction pushing the sides out rather than the front and back. Use hardwood wedges the length of your axe eye front to back and make them three quarters the depth of the axe eye. Cut the kerf just a little deeper than the wedge is long.
The other thing that was very apparent in watching your video is that all of your tools are seriously in need of proper sharpening. Not intending to be insulting, trying to help you improve your work and avoid injuring yourself. The kind of force you were using with that huge drawknife (I've never seen one with a blade that deep before) is difficult to control and that becomes dangerous. A drawknife should be razor sharp, able to easily shave paper thin curls off of a piece of wood. Same for chisels. Sharp is safe, dull is dangerous. Again, control is the key to safety, and sharp tools are much easier to control, because you can do the task with much less force.