DIY gasket for a DIY stove?

I want to add a gasket to a diy stove.
There isn't a groove, just two flat surfaces.
Any suggestions?

It should be possible to mount a standard braided fibreglass gasket using stove gasket cement (the stuff in a caulking tube).

If you want to create a DIY gasket, I don't know. Some engine gasket materials may work, if you can find one that's intact. Personally I'm not sure it's worth the trouble.

Hey William;
I have 1/8"  flat Morgan super wool gasket material, in any width,  at my store.
Rutland stove cement works great.

I had a cheap stove once that did not have gasket material. I found that adhesive did not work long term because the heat would make it brittle and it would fall off. Pop rivets though every few inches was just enough mechanical connection to keep it on with the adhesive. It also only took drilling a 1/8th hole to make it work

Agreed, adhesive alone would need maintenance. I like your pop rivet solution. Good idea.

They make a fiberglass automotive/motorcycle header wrap that is about 1/8 inch thick and comes in 1 and 2 inch widths

Thanks for the great suggestions.
I'm in the middle of building the door, but knowing what materials I can use influences the design.

Do you think I could use bolts (machine screws) in drilled and tapped holes, rather than the pop rivets?
Self tapping screws could be even easier,  but driving screws through anything at all fibrous is   prone to disaster.
Rivets would be simpler, but replacing riveted on gasket would be harder.

William Bronson wrote:Thanks for the great suggestions.
I'm in the middle of building the door, but knowing what materials I can use influences the design.

Do you think I could use bolts (machine screws) in drilled and tapped holes, rather than the pop rivets?
Self tapping screws could be even easier,  but driving screws through anything at all fibrous is   prone to disaster.
Rivets would be simpler, but replacing riveted on gasket would be harder.

Self-tapping screws might crack the cast iron, unless being homemade, it is steel. It also will get wound up in the gasket material.

But getting the old rivets off was never a problem for my stove anyway. I just used a cut-off wheel on a grinder and cut the BACK of the rivet off. In that way the old rivet popped out when I pulled on the old gasket material.

Excellent point, and now I have an "excuse" to buy a rivit tool.

For point of reference,the aim is to add a bigger "drawer face" to an existing file cabinet.
The narrow edge of cabinet "frame face" will mate flush against the back side of the newly enlarged "drawer face".
A 3(4?) Gallon TLUD will sit in the bottom of the drawer and the  cabinet will be a bell for the exhaust:

Here's my first stab at attaching the oversized drawer face to the existing drawers.
The resulting arrangement wouldn't open enough to accommodate the TLUD.





To deal with that I cut the face off the top drawer and used it to hold my gasket in place.
This "gasket" is made from silicone cookware.
This material fails at about 500 F , but I have a lot of it, so I thought I would try it.


 

I decided the drawer door, while a neat idea, isn't worth the trouble.
Making a latch or latches that would suck all the edges in tight was going to be complicated, without giving any real advantages.
I cut the drawer portion off of the door, and I plan on putting it on hinges.

I also cut a hole for the flue.
My experience with the tlud boiler showed me that tluds don't need a consistent  cross sectional area throughout the exhaust path to maintain clean burns.
I had some 3" double walled tees I bought at an auction, plus the 3" diameter flue from inside of a water heater, and a little bit of  3" duct, so that's the size I went with.