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Beans and peas

 
gardener
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I'm blessed to live where I can grow veggie year round.  One of the challenges of this is removing a veggie, such as beans that will continue to produce for 4 to 6 more weeks, to plant a veggie that will take that long to start producing.  I often struggle with this, and end up planting my peas in the fall or beans in the spring late because, it's so hard to remove a healthy productive veggie to make room for another.
I need to get my peas in the ground in a week or so. I didn't get them planted last fall, and for some reason this  spring I was overrun with millipedes that ate all the peas I planted.  It was so sad, peas are my favorite!!!
I've been thinking about planting the peas in a row a few inches in front of the beans.  So they can get started.  There's room in the raised beds.
This may be a terrible idea, or it may work great where I can have my beans and eat peas too.  
What do you think?  
IMG20230908175639.jpg
Beans 9/8/23
Beans 9/8/23
 
steward
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Great minds think alike! Unfortunately, I'm not sure that the pea seeds I used could cope with less than perfect attention. Three came up in my front porch bin that gets more attention. The ones further from the house didn't make it. The peas I started in paper pots indoors where I could peek at them twice a day, are doing fantastically transplanted into a raised bed which I'd cleared and planted a grain, sunflowers and a few Napa cabbage in.

So, are you able to disturb the soil near the beans enough to start you peas and transplant?

Are you able to make sure the seeds will get enough water? (The beans are harvesting some of the water that bed has, so that has to be allowed for.)

Is the seed cheap enough, that you don't care if only 50% germinate?  I'm thinking they're calling for clouds tomorrow and Tues, so if I were to soak and plant some seeds today, they might have a better chance. Apparently soaking peas seeds for close to 12 hours, but *not* longer, is an asset. Ones I gave about a 6 hour soak did seem to germinate well.

I'm using several different types of pea seeds. My first goal is to hold the soil overwinter, not produce a crop, so I was happy to use old seeds up and take my chances, but I've been amazed how many of the paper pot ones have germinated and done well. I had also read that peas are major groupies, so putting 3 seeds in each paper pot makes them happy.
 
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While I have not done this with peas and beans, I often overlap my successions.  E.g. plant out tomatoes between my garlic rows in late spring. The trick is being able to harvest/clear out the early crop without harming the later one.  Maybe you can get a “pea nursery” going in the shade of the beans, but pull up the beans before peas get entangled in them?
 
Jay Angler
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Mk Neal wrote: Maybe you can get a “pea nursery” going in the shade of the beans, but pull up the beans before peas get entangled in them?

Where I am, the beans dry back to just stalks late fall, so cutting them off a bit higher and letting the peas use the lower stalks as support, might work?
 
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I'm not sure what the modern word is, but 100 years ago, they called it interplanting.  It was quite common in parts of England that still used animal-powered farming and human-powered gardening.  I think Percy Thrower talks about it a lot in his Victory Garden books.  My great-grandfather used this a lot on the farm he tended.

The theory is, a seed takes a week or two to germinate, and a week or two more to get big enough to need lots of space.  During that time, the young plant is quite vulnerable.  So it would be planted between rows of something not-a-root veg about 6 to 8 weeks before that crop was harvested.

I usually put legumes between leaf veg and leaf veg between legumes.  I haven't had a lot of luck putting the same next to the same because the soil doesn't have time to rest and the second crop doesn't thrive.  It also means the pests can move over from the old plant to the new very easily.

One thing I found best is to remove the old plant by cutting the stem at the ground instead of removing the root.  It usually just turns into soil, but I do like to have a root crop every so often so I can loosen the soil when I harvest.  

But that's my location.  It's a very common practice in pre-industrial agriculture (that I've researched - asia, europe, parts of the pre-contact Americas) so it's worth experimenting with to see what works best for your garden.  (please let us know how it goes)

 
Jen Fulkerson
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Thank you all. I appreciate your input.
I think I will give it a try.  I don't usually interplant. I usually try to chop and drop everything that looks healthy, and stick everything else in the compost pile.  Then I add some organic fertilizer and compost. The compost adds nutrients and helps bring the soil level back up because my beds are all filled hugel style, so my soil level drops between 6 to 10 inch's.
Maybe I will just fill in the open spot and start planting the fall veggies.  Just fill spots as they become available instead of having an end and beginning.  It seems worth a try.
My main hesitation with the beans and peas is they are both legumes, and seems like I read somewhere not to plant them close.  We love peas so much I plant peas by every trellis I have, so  there's not a lot of options for the tall climbers.
Thanks again. We will see how it goes.
 
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