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Deane Adams wrote:I would think your approach would work given enough time for everything to break down. I would also use cardboard and shredded paper in the mix, I know that Paul frowns on their use. I've used both for many years.
Any material coming from off site should be checked for "toxic" stuff, if you can use only material from organic or better farms. To check the manure, mix a small amount with some "clean" soil or potting mixture and plant 10 beans. They should break the soil in 7 to 10 days, then check their growth and leaf shape for any leaves that are of a funny shape or the stems looking odd, if all the new plants appear "normal" then the manure is most likely ok to use. If not have it hauled away, some of the "Toxic Fairy Dust" in use today will last forever ! So please be careful.
Keep us posted as you go along, I would love to see some pics !
Peace
Jay Angler wrote:A few things:
1. Soil will settle, but it doesn't reduce in volume as much as compostables do. So if you use animal manure, you will likely have to do a lot of topping up. I would try to put some of the manure in an empty space to do a bunch of that composting while the compost covered hugel is composting in place, and then some well composted manure will be available for either top-dressing, or filling planting holes with.
2. As Deane warned, there are some very long acting gicks used on a lot of hay-fields which broad leaf plants won't like at all. I know this because I got a bad batch somewhere, and I'm pretty careful. It's got to have been a decade in quarantine and is only starting to grow hardy broad leaf weeds. It might have recovered sooner with more effort on my part (mushroom slurry might really help) but it wasn't in a fenced area and I have heavy deer and bunny pressure.
3. No matter what, a hugel will settle a lot if it's been hand built, so I'd focus on annuals or biennials until you get a feel for how much extra material you might need to add. Having biochar as part of the process will be great to help maintain a healthy biome.
Mike Barkley wrote:Another thing to be aware of besides the ikky stuff they spray on crops is dewormer meds used for goats.
When I built Humphrey D. Hugelhump there was a lot of cow & horse manure in the planting medium. Roughly 25% manures & 75% soil. In addition to the logs & other organic matter. It was mostly already decomposed quite well but it still did shrink a foot or two the first year & developed a few cracks that needed to be filled.
John Duffy wrote:Andria, congrats on scoring a big pile of goat pooh...'When God gives you poop, make compost." (OK, I improvised that) Nonetheless, if you put a pound or two of red wigglers into that pile of goat doodles, they will make you some lovely vermi compost that you can add to your Hugle...If you have access to manure, worms are the way to go. Vermi castings here in Indiana sell for $2 and go up from there. VC is amazing stuff!
E Sager wrote:Absolutely, go for it! Once the temperature reaches above 50ºF outside at night, dump a bunch of red wiggler compost worms on that hügel to work on converting that manure into soil. They'll die off when the winter hits, fertilizing even more. Just don't let your chickens or ducks see you add the worms to it.
Is that almond roca? Did you find it in the cat box? What is on this tiny ad?
Gracie's backyard - a film about permaculture farming in the far north with Richard Perkins (stream)
https://permies.com/wiki/133872/videos/Gracie-backyard-film-permaculture-farming
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