Log house building...need help selecting proper auger / drill bit + insulation between logs

Hi folks!

Youtuber from sweden? I believe, named Project highlander - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ybMZq_gAYZo - has a nice set of videos how to build a log cabin using likely one of the simplest of methods. I will be replicating it, but for a 20' x 16' size.

I need to figuer out two things:

- he uses a common method of drilling through two horizontal logs and then hammering in a dovel of sorts. I wonder...what type of drill bit I need to get? Meaning what should - is it called flute? - the drill bit needs to have. if it is about 1 1/2 or 1 3/4 in diameter and about 16" long?
I want to get the right one so I don't get something used in typical house building to make holes for wires in studs...and then this bit will be getting stuck due to bad design and too much friction...

- There is a type of insulation that folks lay between each log...it looks like felt, but I am unsure. I am on an extreme budget, being on disability and my house burned down, so I have to be creative. If I have to buy something I will...but often I find people are creative and they know an industry where such and such is a waste or is sold cheaper than walking to home depot for a specific item...

I can do research no problem...but I am asking for the community for some guidance what to look for.

Thanks a miilion!

Hary,

When we were erecting heavy timber roof structure for my house, we have been using WoodOwl Tri-Cut bits. They are triple fluted and drill aggressively. If used on thin lumber they would destroy the material, but on anything with at least 15x15 cm (6x6") they drilled swiftly and smoothly. I have used corded Metabo drill and Kanzawa drill guide.

Hary -

Chris Schwarz also likes the Wood Owl recommendation from Cristobal for general timber construction.

In his "Log Construction Manual", Robert Chambers recommends augers from Northwest Manufacturing.  However, the proprietor has passed away, so you would be limited to existing stock from retailers.  Chambers also recommends carbide tipped augers from B&A:
https://www.bamanufacturing.com/page_ii.htm
Chambers uses (used? - I guess he's mostly retired, now) all-thread though his walls from top to bottom to anchor the plate to the sill.  He also recommended auger flutes 24" long, but seems to have mostly built using large diameter Douglas fir logs.  Smaller logs mightn't need such a long auger flute.

I do have a pawn shop Milwaukee 1/2" Hole Hawg (the reversible right angle model with the mechanical two-speed transmission).  Plenty beefy enough to spin the auger - and through you off a swing stage!  But, no power auger bits, as yet.

If augering the holes manually, Scotch eye augers seem to be favored.  Eric Grankvist used a Scotch eye auger to peg his now-YouTube-famous cabin together.  As Josh from the Mr. Chickadee YT channel explained it to me, Scotch eyes come into their own at anything bigger than 1-1/2" diameter, but he typically uses a wimble brace for anything smaller (which would require a separate auger bit, maybe one of the above), at least when "in the field" - though he does use boring machines, too.  On Josh's recommendation, I acquired and used a Fray pattern wimble brace to poke a bazillion (OK, maybe 100!) holes in construction lumber this past fall, for screw access.  You get the hang of it, after a while.

So, I only have old Irwin bits, and a couple of raggedy Scotch eyes, but have used none of them to make deep holes, such as for pegging cabin logs together.

Either way, an auger file to keep them sharp will be helpful.  Or, possibly a diamond file, for a carbide tipped model.  Not sure what's available in that regard.

I'll let others chime in on the seal between logs, in a modern context.  Historical solutions would have included moss, wool (old socks, etc.) and oakum (tarred hemp).

Probably not much help, but it's what I've got.

These still exist, but are hard to find. This is a centerless ship auger. They drill as fast as you do, don't clog, like more modern bits, which seem to be wound too tightly to clear reliably in wet wood, or maybe because electric drills (operators) spin them too fast, dunno.
These were sold bare, the owner supplied his own handle. Dieter Schmid out of Germany, sells the modern version, but I believe they are like most current augers which typically have a spur and single cutting edge. Not nearly as easy to sharpen. This one rocks. Those multi-edged WoodOwls look pretty nice.
Fiberglass insulation is used to chink machined or tight fitting logs.

Early 70's, my dad bought a cabin on the south edge of the BobMarshall Wilderness, right on Arsenic Creek. The original part of the cabin was built in the 40's. The logs were very well fitted, and chinked with brick mortar. When I don't know. Obviously, after it had settled a bit. The logs and the mortar were oiled, with something called Val-Oil. Left a finish like heavy linseed oil.
My dad looked in vain trying to find the product, the empty 5gal cans were still around, but Chevron? had stopped making it sometime in the 60's.
We built a little dam up the creek about a 1/4mi., we stuck a pipe in to pressurize the cabin. Propane Servel fridge and lights, really sweet  wood/propane split two oven stove with a thermosiphon water coil for a hot water tank in the bathroom.
This was the place.

I have some vintage auger bits with the crossbar loops and they work, but something powered would be so much easier Irwin #3043016 and a Bosch #nklt24 might be what you are looking for.

Thank you everyone for your thoughtful answers. I am going through the various posts and links and advice.

I realized I failed to say that I am looking for a bit to go in my dewalt cordless drill. I am alone building and don't object to a blend of traditional techniques and modern tools. Too many holes to drill.

I know how drilling such deep holes can get the bit stuck and it can break your wrist...that is why I use only high end cordless tools, not the weekend warrior type they sell in Home Depot :). I have the drill with 16" or so side handle to precisely prevent wrist breaking.

Still I realize the bit is important to get the right one and your answers pointed me in the right direction - thank you!

Still need to figure out however the insulation between logs...

Cheers beautiful people!

Hary Shelton wrote:Thank you everyone for your thoughtful answers. I am going through the various posts and links and advice.

I realized I failed to say that I am looking for a bit to go in my dewalt cordless drill. I am alone building and don't object to a blend of traditional techniques and modern tools. Too many holes to drill.

I know how drilling such deep holes can get the bit stuck and it can break your wrist...that is why I use only high end cordless tools, not the weekend warrior type they sell in Home Depot :). I have the drill with 16" or so side handle to precisely prevent wrist breaking.

Still I realize the bit is important to get the right one and your answers pointed me in the right direction - thank you!

Still need to figure out however the insulation between logs...

Cheers beautiful people!

Hary -

Well, I didn't want to steal Tommy Bolin's thunder, but in this thread:
https://permies.com/t/276128/Skiddable-Work-Shack
Tommy recommended Log Building Tools in Prince George (which may be reasonably proximal to you, since I see you are somewhere in BC):
https://permies.com/t/276128/Skiddable-Work-Shack

They carry various items, including long augers (including some from Wood Owl), self-feeding bits and auger files:
https://logbuildingtools.ca/product-category/auger-wood-bits/

In the referenced thread, Tommy says they are good people.  Might be worth a try, especially since they are in BC.

The auger files are special, with safe edges on alternate sides on opposite ends (look at a picture - I think you'll quickly see what I mean, even if my verbiage is a bit muddled!), and with a special shape, to facilitate sharpening the cutting edge and spurs without inadvertently mangling the geometry.  I have an auger file (from Lee Valley, as I remember) which I keep in my vintage wooden Irwin auger bit box, so that it is handy when needed.  A quick touch-up from time to time prevents frustration and extra sweating and mumbling when hand augering holes.  It might be less noticeable when power driven, but a dulling auger is apparent when spinning by hand.  File only the interior edges of the auger, not the exterior (well, not without a lot of care, and knowing what you're doing).  So, top side of the main cutting edge, and interior face of the spur (unless serious corrective action is necessary - hit a buried nail or barbed wire or something).

Kevin

Hary,
For you and anyone else looking. There is a book, I think Canadian, 'The Short Log and Timber Building Book', which illustrates a post and beam type construction, with short log infill walls. Lot of chainsaw work, but adaptable.
I believe the author is James Mitchell. I am not in NV., or I would post a copy of the cover. My copy was purchased by my dad about 35years ago. Great intro to building.
I couldn't finish watching the Swedish guy, that video was all over the place and his work/place a mess, sorry. EweTube is not my thing anyhow, I prefer the analogue version, reading.

I have seen people use standard fiberglass batt insulation. They ripped it to a 4”ish wide strip (you get four strips from a standard batt) and then peeled it to about an inch thick. One small pack from Home Depot will do the whole house. A couple staples will hold it in place in the wind.

You can also use a caulk rope or tube caulk. Choose one that is non hardening and meant to for air sealing buildings. There are zero voc versions. It will be expensive, but will 100% air seal even as the logs settle and add structural strength.

Search for your source of dowel before you buy your bit. There is a wide variation in cost for dowels and it isn’t necessarily logical vs size. Wooden closet rod is a potential source, but they vary a lot in size so buy your whole batch at once and then get your bit sized to fit them.

Thank you again for the various answers, very useful. I did find the augur bit I needed and ordered it. The book looks interesting too, but I wish I could see some sample pages online to see if it is worth getting. I am considering it.

As for the insulation, fiberglass is an interesting tip. From some videos I watched, I would venture that rockwool might be better than fiberglass, but there I fear it might be very difficult to separate into an inch thick layer. Thoughts on that?

As for the dovels, I've seen videos - and this makes sense to me - to simply cut on table saw square dovels and hammer them in. It seems to work great and will greatly reduce costs, as dovels seem to be quite pricey...I mean these logs will already be in groves on both sides, so this technique ought to be just fine in my opinion (happy to be corrected).

Thank you so so much everyone for all the great tips!

Tommy Bolin wrote:Hary,
For you and anyone else looking. There is a book, I think Canadian, 'The Short Log and Timber Building Book', which illustrates a post and beam type construction, with short log infill walls. Lot of chainsaw work, but adaptable.
I believe the author is James Mitchell. I am not in NV., or I would post a copy of the cover. My copy was purchased by my dad about 35years ago. Great intro to building.

I have the 1984 edition, published under this name.  There is a later edition (2000, or so) published as "The Craft of Modular Post and Beam".  I don't have the later edition, but my understanding is that they are essentially the same material, with some updates in the later publication.

Sometimes this is referred to as "piece-en-piece" or "Red River frame".  There is quite a lot of confusion about terminology, but the technique would be quite handy if only saw-log lengths were available.  Similar to Chambers, Mitchell also favors skewering walls together with all-thread from top plate to bottom sill.  However, in Mitchell's case this is because he advocates for pre-fabricating the infill panels which span between posts, so that the services of a crane can be minimized.  He has interesting ideas regarding template construction for dovetail joints and the like, as well.

Tommy Bolin wrote:
I couldn't finish watching the Swedish guy, that video was all over the place and his work/place a mess, sorry. EweTube is not my thing anyhow, I prefer the analogue version, reading.

If this is the ProjectHighlander series, he demonstrates kerfing logs to fit with a chainsaw, using shims which are the same thickness as the width of cut.  This is very similar to kerfing a scarf joint to fit, but using a chainsaw, rather than a handsaw.  He admits it's a rough-and-ready method.  He usually does full scribe (Swedish cope) construction.

I agree that rock wool would be a better product, but there is no way to split it into thinner sheets. Not consistently, anyway.

Good idea on the cut your own pegs. Definitely cheaper.

R Scott wrote:I agree that rock wool would be a better product, but there is no way to split it into thinner sheets. Not consistently, anyway.

Good idea on the cut your own pegs. Definitely cheaper.

Thanks on the pegs.

As for rockwool, thanks for the links, I am actively looking into it.
I know this is totally different, but what do you think about undercarpet sheets? I know it is more of a foam, but it can be cut into widths easily and it has just about the right thickness, and if not, I could put it double...

Great ideas and robust advice  folks.  Cutting and appreciating logs, from 5 inch to 32 inch diameter, has been my sport and business for four years now.  Thanks Tommy and everybody for classic books I need to read.   Yes books will preserve sanity,  without a doubt.  

I would be be hesitant to use carpet pad as it might hold water.

There is probably a roll insulation sold as a pipe wrap that would be perfect, but my Google fu is weak today and I can’t find it.  There is also probably a wool roving or batting product that would work if you want natural.

For a natural house I would only use natural materials.
The traditional method of using knotless spruce shavings to fill the gaps of a log house:

And be very careful with big augers and power drills! The new cordless drills have clutches and safeties so they don’t throw you as hard, but they can still thump you good when (not if, when) it binds.

R Scott wrote:And be very careful with big augers and power drills! The new cordless drills have clutches and safeties so they don’t throw you as hard, but they can still thump you good when (not if, when) it binds.

Thank you, this a very valid and wrist saving advice. Luckily I am aware of it and have a long handle on my new dewalt cordless and also brace it against my thigh.

Cheers

Cristobal Cristo wrote:For a natural house I would only use natural materials.
The traditional method of using knotless spruce shavings to fill the gaps of a log house:

I love this! I did not know about it.

I will have to consider it, however I am alone building the cabin and it is my first build, so I will make mistakes and this is much longer than insulation. I am on the fence.
As well, any idea how you can generate so many shavings relatively easily?
And does it have to be spruce or can it be any coniferous tree?

Thank you!

Hary Shelton wrote:As well, any idea how you can generate so many shavings relatively easily?
And does it have to be spruce or can it be any coniferous tree?

I don't know how they are produced, probably with some linear movement shaver - as the regular jointers/planers produce short chips
The product is sold as "wood woo;l" and is also used as packaging material. One manufacturer states that the shavings are 3-5 mm wide and 200-500mm long.

Wood Wool

Traditionally they are using spruce, but I think other conifers could replace it. I would be careful with deciduous shavings as they may be less resistant to moisture than resinous conifers. Quick search returned some wood wool made from aspen. I would not use it for the purpose of log insulation.

I got a reply from Project Highlander off of youtube, the guy I was mentioning in my original post.
The material he uses and others seem to use as well is...FLAX. Seems like a great product I would love to have,
but alas I see nowhere to get it in North America...if anybody knows a supplier, let me know....and then I hope the
shipping won't be insane...

Traditionally, here in Finland, Ash was used for pegs but nowadays people use pretty much anything they can get, It is better that it is a harder wood than the logs themselves as they will then shrink less than the logs. The material between the logs is Flax. I get it from a company called Isolina (https://www.isolina.com/). The website seems to be in 13 languages so it looks to be quite international...Though I don't see an american flag on there. Hope this helps and good luck with your build. If you film it and upload to You Tube or somewhere then send me a link!

I am quickly running out of options here in Canada. I mean there is nothing available. It's rather pathetic. My best option here in Canada would have been 1" rockwool...or thinner. But it has to be a roll, because you cannot really separate a bat into smaller layers...at least I don't see how. But although bat rockwool are available, rolls are not!

Some suggested just using regular fiberglass. Cheap and you can separate the bats into smaller layers. I am thinking I may have no choice. But a concern I have is that if water from side rain for instance were to get on the logs and go dawn between the logs, the fiberglass would get wet and even though it would dry up, it would utterly fail at that point as insulator...So I would need to protect it...which now seems almost same job as chinking...

So now I am looking into chinking as well, even though that takes more work...but not sure if I can find anything locally and shipping costs will kill me again. And I would definitely go for the elastic kind; don't feel like redoing it all in 7-10 years

Again, any thoughts would be great.

Hary,

For wood wool you could try:
Excelsior Company
They have location in Washington state.

If you go with fiberglass, then use lime plaster as clinking on both sides, I believe moisture problems would be avoided. But please wear protection while working with fiberglass; a buddy who works for the EPA .....about 30 years.....says it is only slightly safer than asbestos. Yet like many things in this rich tapestry of life, EPA research has been slowed or stopped by building industry pushback.  Naturally , being ignorant, I  have handled this product like it was cotton candy most of my life.

At least wearing serious gloves and if possible a quality face mask will help you.  

This is not a natural material, but Robert Chambers recommends and uses (used?) this stuff:
https://www.logbuilding.org/NLH_Gaskets.pdf

Nic Rijavec used a self-adhesive foam roll material on the edges of the long grooves of his full scribe cabin:

I don't recall if he specified the name brand of this stuff, I just quickly found the video which showed him applying it.  It looks similar to the P-bulb one might use as replacement weatherstrip on a car door seal or an exterior house door.