R Scott wrote:Nice solution for the stove. I did something similar in my "big" house, tearing out a portion of the interior wall and rebuilding it with steel studs and cement board. It let me get the stove close enough to the wall to not impede the walkway hallway in front of the stove.
For an outside wall I would have used offset studs to reduce thermal bridging. Shoot, next house I build will use offset studs for all the walls. Basically 2x4 studs 12" centers sitting on a 2x6 or 2x8. Each stud is offset to alternating sides so each side gets a two foot center for nailing the siding or wallboard. Each side gets 23" batts. Wires run in between and get stapled to the outer studs (no drilling!). Only corners and door or window frames have any bridging.
Paul Miller wrote:Travis, Thanks for posting the details on your tiny house . Lots of useful info.
I love your use of steel sheet and concrete board to protect against the wood stove. I know from hard experience the value of stove safety. Your solution is very sound.
In addition to solving the clearance problem you get the benefit of thermal mass, natural convection and radiation.
One thing that intrigues me is the further possibility that one could use an enclosed stove area as a Kuznetsov bell that could provide some heat storage and generate a cross flow through the house with low ventilation air intake at one end, higher outlet at the other end. I would consider putting a water heater in the 'stove room'. Prevailing wind direction in cold season is important too.
I am lucky to have the space to store materials and have found most of the material needed for free in my area. I found a dozen free 4x8 concrete boards on Craigslist. Now I have a good use for them. In addition a local custom steel building fabricator often has usable cutoffs or usable pieces from dismantled buildings I get either free or at scrap price.
I'll have to buy steel studs but they are about the same price as wood studs.
I have a free source of rice husk to use for insulation.
Thanks again for some useful ideas.
Travis Schulert wrote:I agree with capturing and storing as much heat as possible. I usually keep a 16 liter stock pot full of water on the stove for thermal mass as well as to add moisture to the dry winter air. If the stock pot is not just filled with water, I at any given time have squirrel or deer broths boiling or simmering on the wood stove. If it wasn't for all the cooking I do on the stove, which saves propane, I would add fire bricks or cast iron farm equipment, whatever thermal mass I have lying around to the top of the stove. But I would be removing the bricks every time I wanted to cook something, and there is no room anywhere in the tiny home for excess crap lol. I suppose I could put another shelf on the wall to store more stuff, but honestly the more shit you put on the walls the uglier and more cramped the house becomes.
As it stands I want to minimize the wall clutter we already have, clutter is a big problem when you are running a homestead and have little storing space for the many things that make the homestead operate.
I did however bookmark your link as i plan on installing a RMH as soon as we buy our own land and a slightly bigger house in a couple years.
Travis Schulert wrote:Thanks for your input, Morfydd. You have some good ideas there.
My wife and I have discussed on countless occasions how we could change things to make it a bit more functional and aesthetically pleasing. We also do not plan on living here beyond another 2 years. And we are living like paupers as Rob Roy says so that we can buy 10 acres or so and a real house down the road for cash in the location we want, and not be in debt, ever.
Most things you mention that would make the house look better I agree with, but we are not spending anymore money when we are both happy and content. Also, I am just not a fan of wire shelving in any part of my home, and the reason I have not put any shelves above the windows is that I have not yet done the casing, that is being done in red mahogany when I find the free lumber, after that if I have free wood for shelves I will do it.
Travis Schulert wrote:The condensation issues were on the interior side of the exterior sheeting (say that 10 times fast). Actually for real, all of you say "toy Boat" 10 times fast, please try..
Ann Torrence wrote:I'd like to see a photo of the slide-out bed. How'd you work the kitchen plumbing around that? Can you get a snack from the frig from bed? That would be awesome.
Alice Tagloff wrote:There's what's called side mount casters, where the plate is to the side and not on the top, so that should reduce your height profile.
But the main issue is going to be the weight clearance. Casters have a weight limit to what they can support, even if your locking them into place, just the weight of a person sitting on the bed would basically break/crush the caster, even a metal & poly one. So the small 2" clearance casters only generally have a weight limit of around 75lbs, give or take 25.
So that's the height issue.
Is there a width clearance that you can work with? Because with side-mounting casters, that could be a possible work around to give you bigger wheels with more weight support.
Also consider a low-profile box frame instead of a metal frame, just to avoid welding. I don't know exactly where'd you'd find one to buy, but I was once given a mattress set that had a box frame that was made out of 1x3" wood boards mortised together, laid flat like a picture frame or a door, with a canvas like frame stretched over it. It was just thick enough to sit inside the metal bedrails and didn't actually come over the top of the bedrail. Making one should be easy, and can be bulked up with steel plates to protect and hold the joints. That was for a twin/double mattress, so I'm not sure what extra framing for a large mattress that would require.
Have you considered an aluminum or steel appliance caster set? They're generally around $15-20 per a set of two, and have a weight clearance of 1200-2000lbs with the way they're configured, which has 16 wheels per caster. But they don't have a lock on them. With the steel set, you could possible hack them apart and just weld them into a metal frame as long as you have a top plate welded into place to carry the load. They don't list the height clearance,
To get around the lock issue(other than a block wedge), if you make your mattress frame into a box that your mattress would sit in, there's Floor Locks, they're meant to combine with something on a caster, and basically it's a leg that drops down on a lever, to hold something like an industrial tote in place. I'm sure if you look around, you'd be able to find one that would fit. But they can be expensive and prices vary wildly between sellers, by as much as 50$ and more, so googling it a worth the time. You can get bottom mount and side mounts, the smallest bottom mount I've found tho is just over 3 inchs tall. And once engaged, you can gain about 2 inchs of height. So if you can get a set in the front, and in the back, that would make certainly lock your bed into place.
Alice Tagloff wrote:Do you mean the Popup Trundle? There's different sizes and a lot of them come with the built in bed etc, so you have to google around a bit.
A regular trundle doesn't rise, just slides in and out.
Or maybe the Quad Fold bed frame?