Use Humanure on your plants?

Joseph Jenkins, in the Humanure Handbook, goes into great detail on the safety of the system. He has been using the system for over 40 years and in his book, he details how he has and does use the material on his garden plants.

Do you use your humanure on your garden?

Below is a great quote from this thread https://permies.com/t/132129/composting/Humanure-Willows.

Here is the original question:

Upcycle Goods wrote:I think it's unsanitary to use composted humanure on things that you will eat (like orchard trees and other plants in the garden) is that right?

Rebecca Norman wrote:I would highly recommend that you get the Humanure Handbook and read it, because it addresses this exact question in a lot of detail. If humanure is composted as described in the book there is little to no chance of pathogens still being in it when it is transferred to the soil. (Even if there were, plants don't take them up into their tissues and deposit them out in the fruits on the branches). Though if you personally feel uncomfortable with using humanure on food plants, you can easily use it on ornamentals and mulch producing plants etc. But in terms of hygiene that's not necessary, and all the details and references are the Humanure Handbook.

I have been using humanure in my food gardens since 1985!  And I have also almost never achieved high-heat composting, although I have tried.  It probably just takes more fuss than I'm willing to put into it.  So I've relied mostly on long-composting, and in the last few years have gone toward direct burial of full 5 gallon buckets straight from the latrine.  I bury these in planting holes for vigorous growers like winter squash, or in trenches taken out under a future planting of something vigorous, nitrogen hungry, and ordinarily for cooked use, like processing tomatoes. I've also put it in planting holes for perennials and ornamentals, but now I feel that would be a waste of valuable nutrients.  I avoid growing salad crops in areas that have ever received this manure.  So far so good and never made anyone sick!  One of the more radical practices has been to feed humanure, fresh, to a bin of black soldier flies!  They will thrive on this and on any other "vile" farm residues (things like pet waste, ripe roadkill, even poisonous mushrooms!) and produce a poultry feed yield right away.  The residue from the BSF can then be processed as if it were humanure.

Hey alder. I’m glad you found a system that works for you.
I just want to point out that Jenkins is adamant about never letting humanure touch the ground/soil before being composted.
This has mostly to do with worms that coevolved with humans defecating onto/into the soil.
The worm eggs can survive for years in soil but only a very limited time in a composting environment.
Of course if no one using your system has worms you’re not spreading them. But it is a potential hazard.

Alder Burns wrote:I have also almost never achieved high-heat composting, although I have tried.

We've found that we need to save up a decent amount to get the pile hot. I add 5 or 6 buckets at a time and get to 150 degrees or more in a day or two after I make the deposit. I was not able to get it that hot just adding 1 or 2 buckets at time. There is also a 2 or 3 month period where the cooler temps keep the pile around 90 to 120 degrees but no hotter.

I am not sure if that is too much of a hassle for you depending on how many people you have. We have a large family so a lot of deposits are made.  

I have also noticed that the pile heats up and the fire ants move out and the BSF's come in. It cools down the reverse happens.

We've been using Humanure since 1980, before the book on the subject was written. We let it compost in bins for at least 1 year, then use it on corn in our garden rotation, both sweet corn and grain corn. We spread the composted poo (nice coffee ground consistency) when the corn in nearing 1 foot tall, in between 2 rows of plants. Then we hill up the rows which mostly covers the poo. We've been doing this for over 40 years with no problems. I would never use it on fruit trees as it's too high in nitrogen for perennial trees.