I don't think you would lose the heat, but you might create the need for a fan or two.
I plan on trying this as soon as I have enough cans, got 40 coming my way today Since I am not pumping the air into a living space the fumes won't bother me. Just curious if you could get away with everything being siliver so it reflects back to the glass and it will still keep it trapped. Just trying to think of a way around the whole black paint issue.
My garage is pretty big so the heat didn’t really put a dent in the entire space. It was closer to mid 60’s to 70 closer to the heater though, and the internal temperature of the unit was only 120 max. Now im going to focus on larger air volume and see how it goes.
I also thought about the idea of glass and some kind of thermal mass behind the actual cans to absorb the heat and release it, once those cans cool it can go down pretty quick. I was pretty amazed though that without the sun the internal temperature was still above 70.
charles johnson "carbonout" wrote:
in stead of op cans add another piece of glass and fill it with black beauty
i fill clear glass bottles with it and set them in solar windows in the winter
I looked at your link for black beauty. I will have at least one fan, so would you recommend this product be isolated from the fan-drawn area within the heater unit?
I completely understand now and the illustration really helped!
charles johnson "carbonout" wrote:
yes i put it in clear bottles on my window sills. so i don't need paint.
what i was suggesting was another layer of glass on top of pop cans then use the black beauty to cover the
like this pic
blue = glass
black= Black beauty
Travis Philp wrote:
I would like to think that their strictness is in the best interest of the public health and safety. I could see the point that if you allowed everyone to go on making their own heating contraptions that more deaths will occur and/or houses burnt down. But if a system like the RMH is proven safe then it should be allowed. I would like to think this but I dunno, I could see corruption playing a part too.
I think the problem is that it is new and doesn't have the track record of the conventional wood stove.
Everything inside the solar air heater, that is converting light to heat, needs to be FLAT Black.
Erica Wisner wrote:
On the original topic
Actually, sealed plastic containers of water, with a little colorant if you like, work great. So does a brick floor or a lovely tinted cement slab with insulation underneath. Passive solar absorbers don't need to be black; most thermal mass absorbs heat quite effectively when located inside a sunny window.
Black does help maximize temperatures, though, which you need if you're going to use really inefficient fans and hot air instead of just directly heating some thermal mass.
I actually have one of these pop can beasties in the wilds of Northeastern Ontario, been working for the last 3 heating seasons. My average use of natural gas has gone from $112 Canadian /month to $69/mo equal billing over 10 months, no bills in July and August. At 39.9 cents per cubic metre delivered this equates to saving 1077.69 cubic meters or 1002255.64 BTU's. No smell problems as I used a flat black motorcycle exhaust paint and cured it in the summer sun for over a month before needing heat. My intake/exhaust is a little more complicated to open only when there is heat above 25 celsius and close an insulated trap door when temperatures are low preventing backflow of cold air. As I have used a programmable thermostat for the last 5 years on thr natural gas furnace and only done some minor caulking and draft stoppage most of the difference can be attributed to the passive solar heater, 4'x8'. I would also note last year was one of the coldest and darkest ever, we had 9' snow banks and I could hardly throw the snow over the edges of the driveway. I will confess to having shaped the snow in the back yard into a reflector to increase the effect of the heater, it seemed to help. What's a bloke to do when the snow is that deep.
I am toying with ideas , wondering in summer when we do not need heat , could you use the hot air vented from the top it to power a Stirling engine?