Jay C. White Cloud wrote:The maru system I mention does not lay the timber frame joists on edge but on the flat (in many cases the joist are square) as that is part of the design...so...that would be the opposite of your post advice.
allen lumley wrote: I guess that if the cob dries with the floor flexed there should not be any Counter force to cause the cob to crack(?)
Travis Halverson wrote:So a flat joist works but a vertical joist works way better?
Travis Halverson wrote:So a flat joist works but a vertical joist works way better?
allen lumley wrote:Many years ago when I considered myself a gourmand, a fine judge of Malt and Hops two maiden ladies decided to built their own bar and open it to the public !
The framing was post and beam, the walls were 1 3/4 think tongue in groove pine plank laid up as paneling , No wall studs, and the entire roof was done with
2 X 6s on their sides, horizontal-ish not vertical-ish.
Against all odds (Location, Location,Location) this became a Construction Workers Bar and much was made of exactly what type of ladies would build a building All
Tongue in Groove and NO STUDS, and bets were made on when the roof would fall-in The building still stands 30 years later ! Big AL
allen lumley wrote:How to Fill a Bathtub :
O.K. Now that I have your attention, this is really about how to apply caulk to seal a bathtub base to the Bathtub/shower surround !
First you fill the bathtub, then you climb in! Depending on your own and other peoples sensibilities depends on whether you you undress
First !!! In any case I still recommend warm water ! It reduces personal shrinkage !
The crack between the tub base will now be at its largest, and the floor and floor joists are deflected, any future live loading will be a small
fraction of the whole load .
Making sure the gap is clean and there are no lose particles you apply and smooth out the caulk, let cure 24 hours and drain the tub. From
now on the caulk itself is going to be under compression almost all off the time and when the tub is again filled it will return to its normal
shape and coverage !
Congratulations, this is another side of the same coin we were just looking at, and you now know how to
FillCaulk a tub BIG AL !
This topic is officially hijacked and OFF- TOPIC A.L.
allen lumley wrote:The posts, I am a little concerned about the single post that had flashing around it (for protection against termites?) Do you have an historical problem in your area?
the cement appears to be a surface pour to make a collar around the Post rather than a sub-surface pour to give the base of the post something to bear against ?!!
allen lumley wrote:I could not tell what kind of material was used for flooring ! Particle board or plywood, the grade used should be stamped on the sheets, it probably means another
trip to crawl under there and take a picture of the Stamp(s) !
Satamax Antone wrote:Travis, don't give up the stove as of yet!
R Scott wrote:Nice stove. If I were you I would keep it and move it to an outdoor summer/canning kitchen.
There are several ways you could reinforce under the stove, since you have relatively easy access.
Those reinforcements they placed already--you could do similar, either adding more or making them bigger. Their problem is they transfer to only one of the beams, you need to tie the beams together so they will support that load together. I would completely fill those spaces between posts and add ledgers to the posts--in essence making them act like a proper timberframe joint.
You could add more posts under that section with extra beams so the span is cut in half. Probably the cheapest option but not fun digging post holes in a crawlspace.
Those posts do not appear to be "to code" but you can't tell if they will last or not. It depends if they went deep enough to prevent frost heaves and if they put drainage in the bottom of the hole and if they put the factory finish side in the hole or properly treated any cuts.
allen lumley wrote:Travis Halverson : The possibile presence of termites now or in the near future needs to be addressed ! I assume that your cabin does not have gutters on the eaves,
Depending on how far away your fresh/potable water is you may want to make a plan to capture and use any run-off off your roof !In the meantime look where the
eaves drip on the ground now. See how much mud and dirt are starting to pile up around the base(s) of your Post(s) and any potential washouts that are starting !
To extend the amount of time you can spend at your cabin with out frostbite to your feet you will want to close in the bottom of your cabin some time, what I am going
to suggest next will task my abilities as a word smith ! On a piece of paper draw a Nazi Swastika, then divide it into its two separate pieces, you should have a line that
descends vertically down the paper,( towards your waist), jogs towards the right side of the paper, and then descends vertically ( again towards your waist ). If the first
descending leg is 3'' long the second leg will be 1'' and the final leg will be 4'' !
Eventually you will want to make a piece of Flashing that will be bend into this shape. If the cabin is 20' wide the flashing would be at lest 8 '' wide. Proper placement of
your flashing should be underneath the cabins 'Texture 1 - 11 Siding and nailed to the sill joists of your cabin ! this should allow you to then seal up the space between
the bottom of your cabin floor and the ground!
A very common practice found in hunting camps above 40 degrees North latitude and close to a Papermaker is getting large sheets of Used papermakers drier felt ,
which is a better than fair wind break but is very porous to moisture penetration and cut-to-fit around the perimeter of the structure, then nailed up at the bottom of the
floor and draping down to the ground -and tucked up underneath it will add as much to your comfort as the amount of underfloor insulation you have now !
I have seen this Drier felt ( usually not otherwise recyclable ) Painted a dark forest green in hopes that the canvass like material would then resemble a cement slab,
also painted grey and lines free hand drawn on them to make the canvass look like laid up stone from a distance ! For all whether above freezing I prop up the drier felt
in many places with sticks to increase air circulation ! All this will create a warm zone which you want, and attract critters which you do not want ! Again the flashing and
possibly 'Chicken wire' fencing will be needed to keep the critters out !
Because of location and climate I would keep all your piping and drains as close to the warmer center of your cabin, with a waterproof insulated box around any drains
going to the exterior keeping them short and vertical until down in the ground, and even then plan on having frozen drains and the need to let grey water collect in 5 gal
pails to be carried outside to be dumped during the coldest darkest 10 weeks of winter !
I would like to hear what Jay C. White Cloud has to say about your timber framing now, I would be tempted to just add braces as they are shown in 'The Book' and a
1/2'' plywood sheets over the existing floor that will carry the weight of your Rocket Mass Heater !!
No Flue Pipe Damper ! A flue pipe damper like the one in the stove pipe behind the old stove, should never be installed or used on a Rocket Mass Heater RMH ! Never !
For the good of the Craft ! Think like fire, Flow like a Gas, don't be the Marshmallow! As always, your questions and comments are welcome and Solicited ! Big AL !
Travis Halverson wrote:
I do plan to have an outdoor kitchen. Good idea. I wonder if I would burn more wood in that stove as a summer kitchen than I would burn in the RMH during a winter of heating?
How would you fill the space between the posts? By adding ledgers in the space between the beams? Do you fasten them with long bolts or are nails fine?
How does a improperly installed post fail? Rot from the bottom up and get so weak it no longer supports any load? Would I see signs of rot?
Travis H. wrote:Are you suggesting that this floor system may only need an additional post or two wedged under the location of the RMH to support its dead load?
Travis H. wrote:When you say a rock shim is better than poured concrete that make sense to me. Would this be one or two larger rocks chosen to fit snuggly on each side of the post?