brand new video:
       
get all 177 hours of
presentations here.
  • Post Reply Bookmark Topic Watch Topic
  • New Topic

trouble getting heat upstairs from the basemant  RSS feed

 
greg Slack
Posts: 1
  • Mark post as helpful
  • send pies
  • Quote
  • Report post to moderator
I have a woodburning stove stove in my basemant i put in 2 years ago. This year I cut a hole in the floor and placed a register, the only problem is where i had to put it is about 2 feet away from the stove pipe where most of the heat is coming off. If i were to place a small piece of ducting from my floor register to hang over the stove pipe would this increase the amoint of heat that would travel upstairs or would it be a waste of time? any thoughts are appreciated.
 
allen lumley
pollinator
Posts: 4154
Location: Northern New York Zone4-5 the OUTER 'RONDACs percip 36''
58
books fungi hugelkultur solar wofati woodworking
  • Mark post as helpful
  • send pies
  • Quote
  • Report post to moderator
Greg Slack : What size is your floor register! Find a multi-speed blower with a motor rated for continuous usage, and then add a piece of
ductwork sized to hold the fan internally> If you need to- you can go to an auto savage yard and buy just the Fan shroud and hardware
unless you already have a close12 volt system. This you would then hang from your floor joists, and add enough wood framing to make
an air tight Kind of Box. All electrical motors have a rating plate, you want to find the motors frame size as posted on the rating plate, It
is likely the fan or this engine shroud has been sold separately you still need them to show you a rating plate so that you an get a 110
volt system !

You are going to replace the motor with a 110 volt system motor and it will need to be turned around so as the blow air past the shroud
instead of sucking the air through !

Also There isa specific 110 volt fan made to push exhaust gases out through the Final vertical chimney ! Having to use one of these fans
used to mean the system could not draft properly and the Furnace Tech could not Fix the problem so that type of fan was installed !

You do not care. the fan usually comes mounted into the Exhaust pipe and is very strong and last you several heating seasons, your job
is the link a exhaust fan that moves X amount of air through a floor register that has a larger opening ! Big AL

This breaks down to 1) a short length of duct work, 2) adapting an Auto Fan with shroud, and 3) buying a fan with the ductwork and finding
a floor register already to take this pipe and fan and hang them from your floor joists making sure you end up air tight ! Good Luck ! Big AL
 
Michael Cox
Posts: 1667
Location: Kent, UK - Zone 8
54
  • Mark post as helpful
  • send pies
  • Quote
  • Report post to moderator
This is probably one of those 'lost in translation' moments, but coming from the UK:

  • I have no idea why anyone would put a wood stove in a basement - they are space heaters and belong in the room you want heated, don't they?
  • What the hell is a "floor register"??


  • I'm sure there is something I'm missing...
     
    R Scott
    Posts: 3351
    Location: Kansas Zone 6a
    32
    • Mark post as helpful
    • send pies
    • Quote
    • Report post to moderator
    Lost in translation, that is a good term for it.

    1. Yes, wood heat is primarily for the space the stove is in, but heat does rise so you can get some heat up--but it is limited. Much easier than trying to push heat down like I am (long story, if I knew then what I know now...)

    2. A floor register or gravity vent is just a hiding in the floor open to the ceiling below--they have various designs to muffle sound or light/sight (I remember little boys using them to peek up skirts) but work like a big hole to let heat rise by convection instead of converting to conduction through the floor and back to convection.


    Back to the OP--some ducting may help, but I don't think I would use a fan unless I had to. You can make a duct around the section of pipe and then run to the register it should create a heat pump effect. DO NOT use galvanized ducting!
     
    Richard Wood
    Posts: 19
    Location: East coast USA
    • Mark post as helpful
    • send pies
    • Quote
    • Report post to moderator
    2 registers work better, one atop the general area of stove, then a return , so cold does not have to fight warm In the same area. mine is other side of house.

    Fans in ducts are neat, and bring up heat faster. mine only lasted 3 months, burnt up.


    easier to fan the return duct, cold air, heat will rise on it's own. then it wont get burnt up from heat.
     
    Jeremiah wales
    Posts: 137
    1
    • Mark post as helpful
    • send pies
    • Quote
    • Report post to moderator
    Years ago, I had an old wood stove in the basement. Built all the fires down there. It was a non insulated floor and no leaks in the walls for air to enter or escape. When I opened the trap door down to the basement. The hot air would just rush right up into the house. If I closed the trap door. The heat would stay down in the basement more. But did warm up the floors.
    Now I have a forced air wood furnace. It is in the center of the house on main floor. Heats up the one room well. But when the fan comes on and pushed or pulls the air thru the ducting. It heats up the other rooms.
    But if I would have any other leaks from outside. The heat would escape and the cold air enter the room.

    These are just basic facts.
    I have always had a wood stove in the house. If I use a little fan it really helps move the air around in the house. Even if the stove is in another room.
     
    I promise I will be the best, most loyal friend ever! All for this tiny ad:
    Book Review Grid
    https://permies.com/wiki/31762/Book-Review-Grid
    • Post Reply Bookmark Topic Watch Topic
    • New Topic
    Boost this thread!