allen lumley wrote:Sara ; About lighting everything up when you re-shoot Your Rockets Video ! Try this as a mental exercise, its late at night, dark cold, and you and a friend are alone
on a lonely road with a front flat tire and dead batteries on your cell phone ! Got the picture? You have jack, spare tire, owners manual, lug wrench ! Now if you just
had some light ! You have some laundry in the Car. You leave the car running with the lights on, Your friend stands at the front corner of the car holding the sheet to
reflect light from your headlight towards the front wheel well, the glow of diffuse lighting is Even better than a flashlight !
O.K. with a sheet or two and a table lamp you will be able to light up the back side of your RMH like a professional Video Shoot !
Your Feed tube is big enuf, regardless of what you do and how many further versions of your rocket stove you live with, partially blocking off the top with that brick
will help you many more times !
When building up your burn tunnel you should err on the side of tall rather than wide !
I am concerned that you have used refractory cement to coat Bricks and things. When thou move, you will have to be very careful and work slowly to salvage as
many of those bricks without breaking them, you can however cement them back together this way !
Yes, the outside of the stack of bricks that is your heat riser should have insulation around it, your question about putting any stove pipe down the center of your Heat
Riser is a good one, but that pipe will not stand the temperatures created, it would be destroyed before you move !
Roxul or rock wool insulation comes in batting, and you should be able to get it at most building supply stores ! Lowes, home depot, Mennards - - - - at that location,
on the outside of your Heat Riser it can be held in place with a wrap of chicken wire ! If while you are in there you can use a little more structural Cob (like you used
to seal the bottom of the barrel last time) to shrink the gap between the Riser and the Barrel 1 full inch, I will guarantee an increase in temperatures at the top of the
barrel and more heat in your basement ! the gap between the wrapped riser should never be smaller than 2'' and can be Bigger!
For the good of the Craft! Big AL
Byron Campbell wrote:Al's got a good handle on it. But I'll go ahead and post what I've written apparently at the same time as Al:->
Sarra, you mentioned that the burn tunnel is 4" high, which is difficult to achieve with standard firebrick, unless the builder did something really creative when constructing it. This assumes standard dense firebrick, when stood on edge to construct the burn tunnel, and would make tunnel height at minimum the width of a single firebrick, that being 4.5" + mortar thickness. Or perhaps a different that usual brick layout was used. Is your J-tube built like the brick layout example at the top of this page?->
About insulating the riser, no steel pipe in that configuration -- it'll burn out shortly. Think about wrapping the firebrick riser's exterior with a singe 1" thick layer of ceramic fiber blanket insulation, then wrap that with something like 1/4 inch holes hardware cloth, wired in place around the blanket. There's a good photo of this on Kristie's page here, lots of photos really, of a workshop built cob rocket mass heater:
Insulating under the J-tube will require a complete core rebuild. To avoid that, one option is to make the burn tunnel taller than the correct size to accommodate lining its floor (front to back) with about an inch thickness of refractory insulating material. I.e. ceramic fiber board, or insulating kiln brick. Both can easily be cut to size with an ordinary carpenter's hand saw and won't need to be mortared in place or anything. These are soft materials and will tend to wear out quickly with wood abrasion, cleaning and etc. But with care it will last long enough to get you to your move.