How to improve clay soils and still be growing the first year

After moving from IL where I had 6-8 in of topsoil to NW Tennessee, where I have 1 in of topsoil, I made the same decision for planting a garden for the foreseeable future. I have laid out 5 rows of 5 bales for my tomatoes, peppers, squash, cukes, etc but my new fruit trees, grapevines, blackberry canes, strawberries, and asparagus are going to have to adapt to the somewhat amended soil I can give them until the gypsum and other amendments I am adding over time to their locations. Having grown up with somewhat clay soils in SW Ontario Canada, I am familiar with amending soils for gardening. The quickest way for me, as with you, is to use straw bales to grow in and amend on the go so I don't have to wait 3-5 years for my amendments to transform the existing soil into usable growing medium while growing in pots or having to construct raised beds to get around the process entirely. Eventually I hope to have quality soil in the garden area, but will continue to use bales as I like the ability to harvest without stooping and bending while also adding nutrients to the existing soil each year as the bales decompose. I will add mulched leaves this fall to the entire area as well as around all of my newly planted fruit trees, canes, and vines to help them along as well.
    On the plus side, I don't see myself having to water my garden this year, maybe ever, as we get frequent soaking rains, and the clay underneath my bales holds the moisture very well, and I now have a two month longer growing season !!

Great report. Am going to give the staw bales a go. Thank you for sharing.  #exciting

Sarah Lennie wrote:I have a very basic question for the experienced folks in this thread- which end of the bales go down? Do you want the hay oriented as it was when growing, or laying on its side? I can see some logic to each orientation but was hoping someone with experience had a definitive opinion on the matter.

The strings go on the side, that will keep the bales held together better and it's easy to remember.

Redhawk

Bonnie Kuhlman wrote:

rectangular bales of clean, non-sprayed wheat straw

Thank you, Dr. RedHawk, for all of your work that you share.  Several years and I am still gleaning knowledge from you.  

Realizing we are in different states, do you have any advice on finding non-sprayed straw?

Bonnie

As has been mentioned by others, Craig's list can be helpful, garden clubs, if you have one close and if there happens to be a farmers co-op or farm supply store. Asking do you spray? The answer Will usually tell you what you want to know. I've even put up "wanted, non-sprayed straw/ hay rectangle bales" signs at stores after getting permission to post.

Sarah Lennie wrote:I have a very basic question for the experienced folks in this thread- which end of the bales go down? Do you want the hay oriented as it was when growing, or laying on its side? I can see some logic to each orientation but was hoping someone with experience had a definitive opinion on the matter.

I put them with the cut ends pointing up. It seems to soak up water easier that way and it is easier to make the holes to transplant seedlings into.

Having a large area of grass field available and straw that can be trusted not available I use a riding lawnmower with a pick up tube directed into a cart behind which I dump on the area to be developed.  
The clay is based on white volcanic ash like what came out of Mount St. Helens eruption.  It is filled with quack grass rhizomes which are very persistent and hard to remove.   I have roles of wall to wall carpet that have been removed from home renovations which I roll out on top which blocks all light but allows rain to penetrate.  Every thing rots down except the grass rhizomes which in their determination to survive grow in great swirls on the surface  of the soil looking for light.   The moles, voles and snakes do there thing under there further enhancing the viability of the soil.  When I role the carpet back up, I carefully fork out the rhizomes trying to avoid leaving broken pieces behind.
I now have an area that can be mulched again and plants transplanted in with some compost around them.  Quack grass that comes up through the mulch has less root to anchor it so generally pulls out.  The carpeting can be repeated the next winter to continue the rhizome removal.

Have you heard of biochar?
That might help soil amending

Boris Plotkin wrote:Have you heard of biochar?
That might help soil amending

That is another facet I am currently using while removing an over growth of vines and the stump in the above video is to pile up the debris and burn it down till flames stop then put it out with the hose.  Forking out the root crowns the char gets incorporated into soil.  The char gets charged with nutrients from the in place composting of the grass mulch.  Historically this farm has many fertile areas from stump burning over the last century and a half.  

Hans Quistorff wrote:Having a large area of grass field available and straw that can be trusted not available I use a riding lawnmower with a pick up tube directed into a cart behind which I dump on the area to be developed.  
The clay is based on white volcanic ash like what came out of Mount St. Helens eruption.  It is filled with quack grass rhizomes which are very persistent and hard to remove.   I have roles of wall to wall carpet that have been removed from home renovations which I roll out on top which blocks all light but allows rain to penetrate.  Every thing rots down except the grass rhizomes which in their determination to survive grow in great swirls on the surface  of the soil looking for light.  

I love what you're doing, here's hoping you defeat the quackgrass completely.

Redhawk