I live in Ontario, climate zone 4/5, with a frost-free season of 120 days or so (depends on the year!).
For myself, I frame the question as, "How can I grow and store a year-round, full-breadth diet in this place?" My interest in growing all my food myself is in eliminating the ecological costs of transport, working towards agricultural methods that align with my values (powering the labour without fossil fuels, avoiding plastics), and allowing for nutrient cycling via a
compost toilet, so that mineral nutrients aren't being drained from my
land or anyone else's by export. So maybe I am responding more about extreme locavorism as the framework in which I make sense of the idea of seasonality.As many people have mentioned, I think this approach also brings along the benefit of a healthier-than-average diet.
For the past few years I've been working toward this goal with my household. We have had a few varying exceptions to this local diet over the years, so this isn't quite a complete picture, but certainly >95% of all food we eat. I can tell you it's very possible to eat well on entirely local food! Either as an omnivore or a vegan, although I would point out that people raising their own livestock on a small scale tend to buy in grain - this is less about localism per se and more about avoiding externalizing that cost of my food system to somebody who grows grain with a
tractor and conventional fertilizer.
Summer and fall are the easy times; that's when everything is growing. Winter and spring are the challenging times when most of the diet needs to be stored from the growing season.
I prefer storage methods that don't use electricity due to the ecological cost of an industrial energy form. I favour storage methods that are as simple and low-energy as possible because that's easier for the worker and takes less energy, say, in the form of
firewood for canning.
So, in decreasing order of preference:
-Passive storage at room temperature (just keep it dry) or in a root cellar
-Dehydrated food (
solar dehydrator or, in late fall, screens set up near the
wood stove)
-Canned food (on
rocket stove)
-Produced fresh (dairy, eggs, and fresh-butchered meat), a few potted herbs
-Vegetable/fruit fermentation is great; I don't know much about it (yet)
I think of
staple foods as the ones high in carbohydrates or proteins (and, to a lesser extent, fats), since these are what make up the bulk of my diet, providing the energy and amino acids needed to move and maintain the body. Obviously no food falls tidily into one category or another, but here are the foods I've worked with divided approximately along those lines. (Dry legumes, for example, are a decent source of carbs, but I tend to think of them more as a protein source.)With the exception of potatoes, plant-based staples tend to be stable to store all year and more, so "seasonality" as such is not an issue.
Carb: potatoes (August until the following June at least; could be dehydrated as chuño in winter if you really want to eat them in the summer), dry corn (flour, dent, and flint, some pop), small grains (wheat, rye, spelt), grain amaranth
Protein: Dry beans, dry peas, soybeans, runner beans, fava beans, grasspeas, black walnuts ("domesticated" nuts aren't bearing yet), squash seeds (you can grow hulless ones; yields aren't great) - these all store passively at house temperature. Dairy (fresh or stored as hard cheese), meat (butchered fresh for poultry and groundhogs [which are a lovely spring treat - just as they're destroying your garden], pressure canned, or frozen if you use a freezer), eggs (can be stored unwashed to preserve the cuticle in a root cellar for 6 months if your birds stop laying the winter)
Fat: poppy seed oil, butter, rendered animal fats
Vegetables/fruits provide all kinds of great vitamins and minerals and fancy health-promoting phytochemicals, as well as much-needed fibre and, for some, a significant amount of carbohydrate or protein.
The first thing to do is to push the growing season on either end so you don't have to store things. In the fall, that means cold-hardy greens like mustards, tat soi, escarole, parsley, and kale, in cold frames if you want. In the spring, you can get a bit of a start on greens with cold frames, but the real stars are perennials that come up wonderfully early: Caucasian mountain spinach (a vine, not spinach at all), garden sorrel, and asparagus. Lambsquarters gets growing early in the year and makes a wonderful nutritious green that you don't have to plant! If you're eating a lot of these foods, you might want to leach the anti-nutritional oxalic acid by boiling and discarding the
water.
Passive storage:
In Ontario we can grow three species of squash: Cucurbita pepo, C. moschata, and C. maxima. They all store in the same conditions that you like in the winter: dry and moderately warm. Stick them on top of cupboards, under end tables, on bookshelves, on special-built storage racks, up one side of the stairs, behind the couch (help! we're being flooded!). Pepos last until end of January or a bit later, most moschatas until May or June, and maximas (I hear) can last for a year or two, depending on the variety. Onions and garlic also store in house conditions. Tomatoes picked before frost and without blight can last quite a while too. This last year, we ate our last fresh tomatoes on Christmas. Not quite as tasty as fresh, but not bad.
Lots of "root" crops (they're not all real roots) store beautifully in a root cellar. For most of them, it's because they're biennial and they're waiting to get through the winter to set seed. It's just that where they came from, winter wasn't quite so harsh as here.Carrots, beets, winter radishes, turnips, rutabagas, kohlrabi, parsnips and, if you're adventurous, Jerusalem artichoke, salsify, and scorzonera. If you eat those brassicas, there's no need to worry about vitamin C - kohlrabi packs a daily dose in just 100 grams!Apples! but separately from other foods to avoid ethylene problems. How long these last all depends on varieties and storage conditions. Around here, usually the best is into January or February.
Dehydrated:Greens (especially lambsquarters, but also kale and chard), green beans, tomatoes, zucchini (wonderful texture), winter squash just before they spoil if you have too many,
mushrooms (for some species, if you put them in the sun, this is a great source of winter vitamin D, which is almost impossible to get enough of from sunlight), apples, and any other fruits you have.Dried passively for seasonings:Lots of herbs, coriander, hot peppers, calendula flowers, sumac, spicebush if you have it.
Canned:Tomatoes, salsa, hot pepper pickles, green beans (pickled in vinegar so you can water-bath safely - makes a tasty salad), fruits, and juices.
Sugar: maple syrup (canned) and
honey (neighbours produce these).
I find the suggestions of fasting, above, interesting. Certainly eating a bit more when food is plentiful and a bit less when it's not could help even things out without turning to storage, but I find that the staple foods are the easiest to store year-round and I would certainly not want to eat a diet that's all staples - that seems like a recipe for malnutrition. Also, unless you go into winter somewhat overweight, you could at most fast for a month (give or take a few weeks) - not a complete solution to the problem of winter. Intuitively, I wouldn't think you get anything "for free" - if you fast, that means you need to eat more later to build back up to a normal body fat, so you still need to obtain that food sometime. I'm curious - does anyone have
experience with using fasting as a means of significant reduction of overall food consumption?