david willis wrote:So I did some more testing this week. I did not make a video. However I created the longer burn tunnel in the top section, and it did not seem to make a difference.
I have been doing a lot of reading on gasifiers, and I wonder if the problem is that I am not forcing all the smoke to travel through hot coals to convert all the co2 to co. Because of this I have too much inflammable gas, and it does not burn as well.
So I guess I will ask the obvious: is your latest configuration, approximately what you shown in your last drawings? [Where you have the flame travel thru a burn tunnel in the primary chamber, then split the flame/smoke thru 2 separate side passages, down both sides into the secondary chamber, and have the flame/smoke collect in the middle of the secondary chamber, and finally exit out the chimney?] And this configuration finally produced the blue flame in the middle of the secondary chamber? Was the blue flame observable in the primary burn tunnel with the primary door open?
david willis wrote:It only smoked a little for about 1 minute before the secondary burn ignited a nice blue flame
Remember CO2 is a pollutant...consider your new wood barn full of wood, and all of it being converted into CO2 and other things & heat,~~~not a green result at all!~~~
hey david, hurray! so far so great! Blue & even clear is outstanding! I never could of figured this out from what you had posted previously. Thanks for clarifying in your latest post.
~~where you able to see any flame swirling caused by your set-up?~~
Q. #1 Is the 1 1/2" inlet air pipe plumbed directly to the air pump/ outside air? ~~your drawing kind of shows that pipe not making it directly to the outside of the stove, so I'm curious if it connects directly to the pump/ outside air. (your previous 'exh. manifold' did NOT directly connect to outside air, this is why I ask)
Q. #2 Without changing your 2" "U" shaped wood gas collector, would it benefit your set-up at all to add an additional pipe that is perforated, and lays underneath the hot coals (like a manifold rail that is connected directly to the 2" "U" shaped wood gas collector, runs horizontally, and lays in the base of the V shaped trough)?
Q. #3 Is the fire easy to tend, by simply pushing a pile of hot coals over the 2" "U" shaped wood gas collector?
Q. #4 Are you happy with the new size of the 4" mixer, as being small enough to actually conserve wood fuel?
Q. #5 Will you expect to fill the secondary chamber with brick/dirt to capture heat, but also insulate/slow the cold natured water passages from too quickly absorbing the heat of efficient combustion?
Q. #6 Do you expect to load a single batch, burn hard & fast, and gain enough heat to keep the home warm without any other fire tending? (is the water/house capacity somewhat matched to the size of the wood batch) Or will you possibly keep a continuous fire tended for home use, but may be less fuel efficient? (I ask this because your 'mixer assy' is more efficient now, but it seems smaller than the port you had before...which should have an interesting effect on tending the fire.)
davidwillis wrote:I still need to put in the firebrick, and put baffles in (so the hot air does not just quickly go up the chimney without heating up the water).
davidwillis wrote:No, I could not see the swirling. the volume of the gas coming out was fairly fast, and the air being sucked in was less than I expected (it is vented to the outside air, and I could hardly feel it sucking in air, except when I lit a flame at the opening it sicked it in with enough flow to put out the match, so it was pulling in air).
davidwillis wrote: I did put a blower on the the pipe while it was burning to force more air it to see if it would do anything, but it did not change the burn in any noticeable way.
davidwallis wrote:With the amount of testing I have done so far, it seems perfect. It seems to slow burn the wood on top (smoldering it), but then finishes the burn clean in the secondary burn. once it is lit, I can even turn the burn down to a really slow burn, and it still keeps the secondary burn going (at least it did in my short test run).
From your latest video, you had a temperature guage, but could you monitor & post some flame temp. readings of the secondary chamber flame itself, when you have the secondary chamber door open. This temperature might tell you if your flame is truly blue, without it being nighttime!
Did I notice your horizontal 1 1/2" intake air pipe sagging/bent in the video? I think it was sagging due to the extreme heat in the coals area, or the fact that your just throwing in those heavy logs onto a heat softened pipe, that pipe could possibly rupture/collapse with continued hard use, perhaps a brick support/protector might help with that. I know it is early in the season, but you might try producing another duplicate cyclone mixer with air intake pipe to have as a 'back-up' just in case the one currently installed fails for any reason. Remember during the coldest season, you are going to work the thing very hard, somewhat continuously.
I love the current set-up, as everything has easy access for maintenance. Just for fun, you might consider while making a 'back-up' cyclone mixer/air intake assy. by changing the size of the air intake pipe, to change the air:fuel ratio. Funny I know~~~but you know me, always jacking with stuff.~~~ What I have in mind is a 2" U-shaped updraft collector [same as you currently have], but the naturally aspirated 1 1/2" air pipe might be increased to 2". As you know David, the more air introduced into the cyclone mixer should yield an leaner fuel:air ratio, and perhaps yield the blue or even clear flame. You might try again, supercharging the present 1 1/2" intake air pipe with your other blower experimentally... expecting a leaner burn.
Does your intake air now draw more fresh air that previously stated in earlier experimentation: "will blow out a match"? (in this case I imagine your preheated air is extremely hot, and therefore the Oxygen content is extremely diluted, ideally I would want cooler intake air, because 'the denser the air, the more Oxygen is available for combustion')
Of course there is a trade-off with leaner/hotter mixture ratios, the maintenance & component failures will increase, but you get better fuel consumption, and better air pollution, faster thermal conversion into the water jacket~~~which seems worthwhile goals.
What is the exhaust temperature at the top of the chimney? I would consider putting a rain cap/spark arrestor on those stacks, internally rusted pipes are not your friend!
Is there a thermostat/regulator of some type that you intend to use, to prevent overheating the house? How funny an idea would it be, if you were to plumb in an auxiliary radiator into the woodshed, thereby redirecting/bypassing all unregulated [excess] heat away from the house and into the woodshed. This 'woodshed radiator' could be coupled with a fan, could come in quite handy for drying that $5/cord green wood, but also, used to dehydrated food stuffs, or laundry, or just be a fun place to hang out.
I don't know if it would be worth trying to configure a secondary chamber, 'charcoalizer area' at this time, (because a pyrolysis vent would have to be addressed...wouldn't want to waste the syngas production from charcoal making, out the chimney) but I think you can see the potential now for your wood boiler, and a good amount of charcoal on hand would be very useful.
I think a project summary should be made with pictures/diagrams, proper component names, & working specifications should be useful so that others can try to duplicate your results, with very little 'trial & error', & I think it is necessary for this & your website http://www.independenthomeenergy.com/projects/wood-boiler/control-system/ also.
What's a year in metric? Do you know this metric stuff tiny ad?
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