Roberto pokachinni wrote:hi all,
I didn't read all the comments but will probably do so as I love Emilia's work and have watched her video a few times. I used to correspond with her in the Fukuoka Farming Yahoo group years ago before she sadly passed away. To answer one question, when she talks of crop location in the video, I believe she just mentions that she never plants the same thing in the same place the next year, and encourages a diversity of root types in the soil which form different communities and source different nutrients. Emelia was one of the most studied and experienced gardeners that I've ever had the pleasure of connecting with online; she was way ahead of her time in many ways. I always found her insight was some of the best in that Fukuoka forum, or at least it always seemed to me to be what my instinct was telling me was right. Her ideas about synergy in the soil matrix came partly out of Fukuoka's ideas, and also out of Elaine Ingham's work on soil micro-biology. Elaine's work also was some of the inspiration behind the Actively Aerated Compost Tea methods in Teaming With Microbes.
Roberto pokachinni wrote:Alex,
What sort of help did you have in mind?
Roberto pokachinni wrote:Awesome Alex. I think that biochar is a wonderful thing. I have done a lot of theoretical study of biochar and I have some experience with it already, but I'm looking forward to building a bigger more productive retort, and doing some controlled experiments/study plots/demo gardens with it. Unfortunately, I may not have as much time on my property this year as I thought. I think I'm going to be working away from home. This will help get the land paid for quickly but it will delay a lot of the growing and building that I had planned for the next few years. It is probable that I will only get a few regular type beds in (on the contour at least). The snow just left.
James Driscoll wrote:This looks similar to the Jeavon's bio intensive method (http://www.growbiointensive.org/index.html).
Emilia Hazelip in the document I alluded to above said "I have long since given up
following the lunar/cosmic calendar, there being insufficient evidence of results to
justify the time and complication of applying it."
So she may have had some points of agreement with Jeavons but it is safe to say
she was not of the bio-intensive camp. Ruth Stout and Fukuoka appear to have had the biggest
influence on her. I also tend to think that she was a bit unique.
Alex Ames wrote:
How do you see the best possible use of biochar in the Hazelip type setup. My beds are built and I have
no intention of expanding except in unused corners inside my fence. What should be added to the biochar?
how should it be applied? What benefits should I be looking for from having used it? Etc. are what I would
appreciate your opinion on.
As far as your land and having to work to get it paid for before you can get much done. Do what you can when
you get a chance. Small bites will keep your enthusiasm up.
Alex Ames wrote:Roberto I know less about using biochar than I do about who is the advocate of planting by
the moon! I need you to step up and be my brain for me. Neither of the people I am trying to
emulate, Hazelip and Stout continue to supplement the soil other than the break down of mulch
and crop residues. I feel like I am stepping out on a limb to fool with what I have. I started with
red clay and even with tons of worms working the beds still seem compacted or at least not as
loose and workable as I would like.
Roberto pokachinni wrote:Beautiful. Are those Iris'? There might be the odd dandelion poking it's little leaves through the dead and dormant thatch of my feral meadow, but your yard location is considerably in advance of where mine is. Look at that nice green grass! Where are you?
Alex Ames wrote:Leila thanks for the links. There is some useful (to me) new info there.
From a practical perspective leaving roots in place requires being patient enough
to let them rot in place and leave passage ways where they used to be. Then
all the nutrients they possessed are now in the soil. Sometimes they get in the way
and you have to work around them when you are planting. However, I usually stick with
the program and leave them in.
Roberto pokachinni wrote:Thanks for posting those links Leila.
I'll definitely check them out sometime soon. I think that your idea to pull the roots has some merit, if compaction is an issue.
The additional microclimates and water penetration and air penetration in the beds would be helpful, particularly in the initial stages.
I wont be on the internet much in the next little while, but wanted to ask how long you have been using these types of methods and any comparison that you might have to methods you practiced previous to them.
Isabelle Gendron wrote:But this year, in my last year beds, I have so much horsetail...I guess my ground is acidic so that is why. And this winter I had throw the stove hashes on it...imagine. I guess I didn't help. I didn't put a lot but seems like too much. I had compost to help. We will see.