Nicole Alderman wrote:Any ideas?
Bryant RedHawk wrote:The cherry doesn't really look that bad for what it has been through. Straightening the leader would be ill advised on this tree. You do need to use triple stakes for the main trunk support. If you want to try to straighten the leader into a more upright stance, make the three stakes heavy and long, use cloth wraps and old garden hose with heavy wire run through the center then slowly (2 years or more) twist the wires to force the tree more upright, do this just a little at a time, and reposition the cloth and hose pieces each time you are ready to add more tension.
The Apple tree also needs triple stakes and the above wire set up to straighten it.
The best thing to do with both of these trees in my opinion would be to pollard them later on, starting slowly to snip them back to the main trunk, this will form a knob at the end of the main trunk from which new branches will sprout.
The other best method for these particular trees would be to set up a trellis and train them into either multi leader or espalier.
This link is a very good one on pruning fruit and nut trees pruning and training fruit trees
I thought stone fruits were supposed to pruned after they flowered to prevent fungal infections. Does that not apply to cherries? I'm really new to pruning. The horrid branching might just seem horrid to me, because I don't know how to fix it. The apple tree has only two small branches on the north and northeast side (the side it's leaning away from). How do I encourage more branching over there to help balance it out?
Patrick Mann wrote: It may be too late to do that now though, you'd have to wait until winter/ early spring 2016. Otherwise it really doesn't look bad to me. What's your complaint about the "horrid branching"? You can thin them as necessary.
John Wolfram wrote:It's not a pruning idea, but: Wood Chips. Pull out the grass and dandy lions around the base, and put down a thick layer of wood chips. Alternatively, if you're lazy like me you can weedwack around the base of tree and put down the wood chips. It sounds like your trees have enough problems early in life, so no need to add competition with weeds to the list.
Is there a direction I should choose for the top-most bud? Toward where the trunk should be? Is this still a good time to prune the cherry?
Nicole, I would definitely not cut as low as your photo indication. You can do as Dale suggests or you could measure down one foot from the tip top and do your slant cut there.
How does one do this? How to prevent it? My cherry tree had about 6 inches of dead at the end of it, but it was healthy and branching closer to the truck. Is this the same thing?
cutting off branches and leaving long nubs that rot back.
Nicole Alderman wrote:Two years ago we bought some discount fruit trees at Grocery Outlet