Hi... thank you for the kind comments.
Lotta questions... I'll try to
answer as coherently as I can.
The house is 23'x35' inside dimensions. or approx. 24'x36' outside dimensions, accounting for panel thickness. It's a small house.
The EPS panels on the walls are a sandwich of (from the outside) 7/16"OSB,5.5"EPS, 7/16"OSB, 0.5"sheetrock... which makes them about 6" thick. The roof panels are (from the outside) 7/16"OSB, 12.25"EPS, foil facing...making them almost 12.75". The wall panels are put up first and can be put up by a couple of strong people but I have an old crane onsite so I did them by myself. They're simply screwed to the frame 8"oc. with 8"screws, and splined together inside and out. The roof purlins are then covered by 1x6 t&g pine boards, (giving the interior a nice glow) and the panels are gently placed on that surface and with locations of purlins prepared screwed down with 14"screws. I had the panels pre-cut according to my
plans with window and door openings carefully located so as to reduce on-site waste. The manufacturer also assured me years ago that they were able to recycle the waste EPS. Since I can't do that, it's a real plus. Planning for plumbing isn't a big problem, I just try to design in a location for a chase to go to the roof and put most of the plumbing below the first floor. Electrical is another story. I've run outlets in a kind of built-out baseboard... 1x9 on 3/8"spacers... hard to describe.. but the electrical is run behind the baseboard and on the surface of the sheetrock, with outlet boxes cut into the baseboard. Works well. For wall switches , I have to cut out sheetrock in a line, fasten romex to the OSB and cut out a switchbox. Messy but works well once it's taped. I don't like ceiling
lights, but in the past I've fished them through channels cut into purlins or beams if a customer wanted track lighting of something. You just have to protect that wiring with metal plates so it isn't punctured by nailing at any point in the future. You never know.
Timbers: 8x8 for columns and beams; some 6x8 for perimeter purlins or at openings (like stairway of chimney); but mostly 4x6 for purlins spaced 2'oc for floor and 4'oc for roof. Collar ties are 6x6. Pegs are 1" oak.
I hope that helps...
Regarding man-hours? Who knows? I've designed and built many frames and speed is not my main concern. I think I started cutting joints in early July and had the frame up by the end of August. That's working by myself. I had some help (two inexperienced people) with the raising. I do have the advantage of some equipment onsite,
tractor, crane, bulldozer, dumptruck. That helps a lot. But that hasn't always been the case.
I put up several of my first frames with a gin-pole, or raising off the back of a truck. We later advanced to leasing cranes before buying our own crane. The one I'm using now is not road-worthy so its owner had to get a new one , but the crane works very well. I was able to pick it up for the price of scrap. (And I can still
sell it for scrap when I'm done.)
Just some thoughts.