Definitely get those trees into the final location ASAP. They're establishing important
root systems right now that will help determine their long term health.
I would double check your planting instructions. Could they say something about five foot wide holes? I always believed it was best to dig a hole close to the same depth as the original pot so that tree wasn't planted on settling and disturbed soils. On top of that, trees gather most of their nutrients in the top foot of soil, so that's where soil amendments do the most good.
I'm seeing recommendations now to not mix amendments into the planting hole at all. The faster the tree gets
roots into the
native soil, the less likely it is to concentrate most of the root growth into the small area of improved soil in the original hole.
My recommendation (and how I've been having good success) is to dig a hole big
enough to fit the root ball in without squishing. Trim all circling roots from the root ball and then place in the hole. Make sure the tree isn't planted lower in the ground than it was in the pot (a little higher is fine). Back fill until the soil is firm. Build a small
berm circling outside of the current drip line of the tree. Fill the circle with a 1 to 4 inch layer of mulch, leaving a couple of inches bare around the tree trunk itself. If you want to add a layer of compost, this would also be a good time. I don't like to fertilize in the first year, but I don't have any good explanation of why not.
As the tree grows the small berm usually dissolves into the surrounding soil. You can plant supporting plants through the mulch when you're ready.