The Art of Plant-Based Cheesemaking - how to craft real, cultured, non-dairy cheese by Karen McAthy

I give this book 8 out of 10 acorns

There's something about cheese.  For those who seek to pursue a plant-based lifestyle, it's often the last hurdle that stops them taking that final step of eschewing animal products completely.  For those who cannot tolerate dairy products in their diet, it seems a gross injustice that such an ambrosial foodstuff be denied to them.  

But what is it about cheese that makes it so irresistible?   And is it possible to create a plant-based cheese that provides the flavour and texture that so many people crave?  

Whilst working as an Executive Chef of a plant-based restaurant, Karen McAthy began experimenting with  different cultures, different ageing and curing methods, and different combinations of nut, seed and legume ingredients in an attempt to find out.

She shares her findings in this book.

The book is split into six chapters with two appendices, as follows

1 Core Elements of Plant-Based Cheesemaking
Terminology: “Cheese” versus “Cheeze”
Non-Cultured Cheeze
Cultured Cheese
More on Informal Classification

2 Equipment, Sanitization,and Food Safety
Food Safety and Sanitization
Tools and Equipment

3 Making Quick Non-Cultured Cheeze
Non-Cultured Soft Cheeze
Cultured Soft Cheeze
Soft Cheezes
Semi-Soft Cheeze: Base Recipe  
Firm/Hard Cheeze Base
Notes on Ingredients

4 Making and Using Plant-Based Cultures
Rejuvelac
Making Rejuvelac
Kefir: Coconut, Cashew, Almond . . .
Probiotic Capsules, Miso,
Tempeh Culture, Sauerkraut Brine

5 Fresh Cultured Cheeses
Almond Ricotta
Queso Fresco
Chevre Style
Short-Aged and Semi-Soft Cheeses
Coconut Kefir and Macadamia
Garlic and Herb Cheese
Feta-Style Cheeses

6 Firm Cheeses and Cheese Aging
Cashew and Coconut
Havarti/Gouda Style
Cashew and Coconut
Double-Cultured “Cheddar”
Aging and Rind Curing Methods

Appendix 1: Resources
Food Items
Cultures
Equipment and Tools

Appendix 2: Quick Reference

Guide to Smell, Taste, and Texture

This is not a long book, just over a hundred pages.  It is abundantly illustrated with full colour photographs and is a pleasure to handle and read.  The presentation of ideas is logical and systematic, starting with a discussion of terminology and explaining the rationale behind the way it used in this book, progressing to a discussion on equipment and hygiene, then to a chapter on each of the main types of plant-based cheese with full instructions on everything you need to know to make and culture your own, with plenty of sample recipes of each type.  The discussion of different types of cultures is invaluable, and full instructions are given for producing rejuvalac from grains so that it is possible to start experimenting with cultured cheese without having to buy in specialist cultures.

The emphasis seems to be on the use of high-end base ingredients, almost exclusively nuts, seeds and coconut, often enhanced with herbs, spices and fruit, to produce a product as sumptuous as possible.  

Unfortunately I haven't yet had a chance to try out the recipes so I can't vouch for how successful the resulting cheeses are as replacements for dairy cheeses, but as a recipe and instruction book to enable the reader to produce their own plant-based cheese, this is the book to get.  Personally I would have liked there to have been a wider range of ingredients covered and more emphasis on lower-cost or home-grown ingredients for those of us who cannot afford or have allergies to nuts.  

So what have I learned by reading the book?  First, that the aim of a plant-based cheese is very different to the aim of a dairy cheese, which is essentially to preserve surplus milk for later use.  Plant-based (which essentially means vegan) cheese is designed to fill a culinary gap when dairy cheese is off the menu.  From what I could make out, it doesn't keep very long, and probably far less time than the raw ingredients.  Also the whole method of making it is completely different.  Dairy cheese is made from milk which is coagulated, the whey drained off, and the solids cultured and aged.  Plant based cheeses are generally made by grinding solid foodstuffs such as nuts or seeds into a thick paste which is flavoured, cultured and aged.  No coagulation necessary.  

I was also interested in the differences between processes such as surface ripened, washed rind, cave aged and cheddar, and cultures such as camembert and roqueforti.  

I loved the experimental nature of the book - the recipes given are complete in themselves, but there is plenty of the background needed to inspire hands-on experimentation with the development and training of dairy-free cultures.  I also liked the development of complexity of the cheeses as the book progressed, from simple non-cultured 'cheeze', which might well be all many people need to fill the cheese-void when dairy products are no longer an option, through ever more complex processes, mimicking those used to create different dairy cheeses, culminating in a recipe for cashew and coconut double-cultured “cheddar”.  

How well do the resulting plant-based cheeses work as replacements for dairy cheese?  I don't know.  I guess the only way to find out is to either purchase samples from the author's website, Blue Heron Cheese, or buy the book and start working through the recipes until you find one that works for you.  

I recently bought "The Non-Dairy Revolution Cookbook," another cheez book. I've made three of the recipes so far, including one with rejuvalac (which I've made before, but didn't like – it works well in cheese!) & enjoyed them all. I'll take a look at this one, too. Thank-you

Awe..maybe a cheese book that actually tastes like the real deal...I will be sharing this! Thank you!

I recieved the dailyish email that prompted me here with this quote:  

This promo goes out to all of you who can't or don't eat dairy, but love cheese. Intrigued? Read on!

 Um, yeah... , ahem... that would be me.    

Since Birth I have not been able to consume dairy with any benefit.  ...only detriment to my body, but NOT my tastebuds.  I love the taste of cheese but alas, my guts don't.  I may have to buy this book if I don't win it by making a post.  

I give this book 8 out of 10 acorns

I am by no means a vegan, so my usage is more limited than it would be for some. If you’re a vegan, I would say to add a point or two to my rating for reasons I will explain below.

For myself, this book represents the expansion of options. Even though I’m not a vegan, I do have friends who are. There’s a very limited set of ‘cheese’ options for those who are vegan in many markets. From my conversations with vegan friends, there are numerous meat substitutes, but often they are given the choice between sliced American-style cheese or shredded mild cheddar options. Things like ricotta, feta, or many of the more complex aged cheeses are fond memories. This book brings back the choice to savor them again.

I found myself fascinated by the beautiful pictures and wide spectrum of cheese types despite the relatively short book length. I can’t overstate just how ‘cheese-like’ these cheeses look. Having tested a few of the recipes, I am torn. I don’t believe it is a one-for-one comparison to regular cheese. For a vegan who misses cheese options, this book is undoubtedly a god-send. For a non-vegan, it is an interesting side venture. Does it taste exactly like the cheese I know? Nope. The textures are pretty close on the ones I tried though. For someone no longer able to have dairy cheese, they will scratch the itch so to speak.

What keeps it from being a higher rating, for me, is that I do have the option to eat normal cheeses. If I choose to make my own cheese, comparing the price of material inputs means that traditional cheese is going to suit my budget better almost every time. Many of the recipes involve ingredients that aren’t particularly cheap here. If I had some nut trees, I could see that consideration evaporating. Then again, if you happen to have a nut allergy, a lot of this book won’t help you.

For a vegan friend, I would absolutely urge them to add this to their bookshelf. It’s got a lot of useful recipes and a toolbox of ideas for them to try making up their own recipes. To the non-vegans, it is an interesting look into a different part of the cooking process. If nothing else, it offers a way to expand your ingredient list when entertaining vegan friends. I am glad to have it on my bookshelf, but if I am honest with myself, it is almost certainly not going to see heavy use. The recipes are just a bit pricey for more than entertaining my vegan friends once in a while. Again, for others this book is likely to be a must-own. Make of that what you will based on your patterns and needs.