Jobe Shores wrote:I have a small orchard ..... So, scions and 'rootstock' are in the same place.
Last year I made another round of grafting - about 20 apple/pear grafts sometimes in April.
About 90% success.
So every single apple tree in my backyard supports 5-6 varieties.
Per the sources, grafting of the stone fruits is a bit different.
I would not confuse stone fruit grafting with apple/pear grafting.
These are different "animals" in propagation.
Stone fruits, indeed, maybe better to graft in summer by a green bud.
Apple/pear work great in spring by dormant scion/dormant root-stock and I would qualify this as a "better way".
Just much easier to work the dormant stuff.
Simple razor knife with a fresh blade; electric tape; very little petroleum jelly - work for me great.
All the instructions are on YouTube.
I don't even spend the time asking anymore - just go and watch videos.
Plenty of good videos.
Timing - when the tree sap just starts moving (buds puff up just a little).
Need to watch for good timing - depends on the exact place.
I don't even bother with cutting/storing scions before-hand - I just harvest the scions on the spot and graft them within hours (1-2 days at most).
With all the materials being in one spot, I would do exactly this and keep it simple.
I am in Zone 5 (South WI).
Stone fruits are indeed different since you want to try and catch the new buds about a month prior to bud out of your stock trees. (apple and pear tree scion wood lasts longer for me so I wait for the end of feb. for stone fruit scion wood gathering)
You can always simply wait till just before bud-out and do your grafts then, you will just want to work fast since you will gather buds and graft them at that time.
I like to have bud grafts waiting for sap flow for as short a time period as possible, especially for stone fruit trees.
Hope that helps you out. Those grafting tools are sweet by the way, short learning curve, perfect cuts every time and they speed up the process because of that.
Jobe Shores wrote:... I like to read, ( I've read almost every thread in growies and critters) so don't be scared to give me as much minute detail as possible, anything I need to know. Thanks a million!
And btw, watch them videos and observe.
As many as you can afford to watch. They are great.
Even non-English videos - still watch and observe what the people are doing and how they doing it and what is the surrounding too (important details are often left unspoken, but in the video still).
I am into beekeeping lately and I watch lots of beekeeping videos (even in Spanish that I don't know - does not matter; there is something to learn still).
Another thing - just prior to grafting - get yourself a bunch of throw away wood and practice the cuts and the grafts.
As many you can afford - practice.
Every season I graft, I practice the cuts first before doing the grafts.
This is when you start grafting live, you are only allowed a single perfect cut every time.
Every bad cut amounts to likely a bad graft and wasted time/material.
Mind you, medial doctors go through tons of dead bodies practicing the cuts before are allowed to do the same on live people.
But you are going to have difficulty with your grafting tool if you are grafting onto established trees. These gadgets work only when both scion and rootstock are virtually identical in diameter. If you are trying to graft onto established trees you need completely different techniques - cleft grafts or what Stephen Hayes calls rind grafts, (on this side of the Pond, more usually called Bark grafts), (or, if you want to get fancier, things like oblique side grafts, inlay grafts, kerf grafts etc.). I second the recommendation to check out Stephen's videos. He is a bit wild, but one of the best on the web - YouTube, look for HayesUK, or just enter "grafting" and Hayes
Stone fruit indeed does best budded in June up to August, and here indeed you go from growing mother tree to rootstock tree. But this, again, is a different technique from grafting, and is done with a single bud, cut with a sharp blade. (Stephen has excellent videos demonstrating the technique)
And, unless it was not apparent in my first posting, those delta grafting tools look good, but work only under ideal conditions, (when both stock and scion are almost perfectly matched in diameter). They are damned expensive, and useful only in very restricted circumstances. A good sharp knife is a lot cheaper, and works in all circumstances. And if anybody wants to pursue grafting to its full depth, the "bible" is a book by R.J. Garner, called "The Grafter's Handbook"
I want to graft from one of my own apple trees. Our climate is cool temperate and it won't freeze more than -5C at night. Do I have to put my scion wood in the fridge or can I use it directly, say end of winter?
How dormant should the scion be?
I found more information on how to grow rootstocks, that sounds interesting: rootstocks
Now some questions:
How about using a stanley knife for people with lousy sharpening skills like me?
After a bit of reading: it seems that apples are easy - which other fruit is easy and which is more difficult?
And the aftercare of the bench grafting: it seems you need to put them somewhere in 15 to 21C could it be a significantly colder and not so well lit shed? Or is it OK just outside or in a small unheated greenhouse?
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