Can you burn plants with urine?

I applied adequate amounts of urine to some plants.Two of them, one small feoja and an also small strawberry tree have these drying curling leaves.I think the strawberry tree is going ot die
and i don't see the feijoa to sprout new leaves.There are still some healthy leaves but the majority is curling and becomes hard.
If this is the case,what can i do to help them?They are mulched.
It may also not be the case.

These are the trees.The last is also a carob that i bought from the nursery.All these were bought from same nursery.
What could be the reason for this?Could i burn them with urine?

It's possible. Last year I wizzed on the same spot of lawn several times next to my house and all the grass and forbs died. There was a circle of nothing growing for a while, but eventually it recovered.

If you don't dilute urine to at least 1:5 ratio of urine to water, you will kill plants with the urine.
Urine contains a lot of things, and if you are taking any type of medication, there will be some of that in your urine too.
Urea is the form of most of the Nitrogen found in urine, this is what will burn the plants up if too much of it is present.
Urea is also the form most farmers spread on their fields to increase N in the soil prior to planting but they spread it then incorporate it with a tillage pass so this in effect dilutes the urea.

Redhawk

Panagiotis Panagiotou wrote:These are the trees.The last is also a carob that i bought from the nursery.All these were bought from same nursery.
What could be the reason for this?Could i burn them with urine?

i would water those plants heavily to dilute the urine in the soil. i use urine diluted 1 qt. to 5gal. of water. i only put it on the roots and not the leaves.

Yep, I've burnt plants with it before. Mostly it was young seedlings that got damaged, even though it was diluted and applied only to the mulch.
Try watering heavily to wash some of those nutrients down.
By the way, I read somewhere that it's harmful to apply nutrients to a plant that is water stressed already. So now I only ever apply liquid gold after everything has been watered the previous day, and then I dilute it about 1 in 10, though I don't measure. And then usually go through and water once more, lightly, to dilute it around in the soil. That seems to work well. But seedlings just drop dead.

steve bossie wrote:

Panagiotis Panagiotou wrote:These are the trees.The last is also a carob that i bought from the nursery.All these were bought from same nursery.
What could be the reason for this?Could i burn them with urine?

i would water those plants heavily to dilute the urine in the soil. i use urine diluted 1 qt. to 5gal. of water. i only put it on the roots and not the leaves.

I didn't put it on the leaves! I also put gray water from the kitchen sink and the soap had sulfates.I don;'t know if the combination was the reason ,or the urine alone or the gray water.
The marjoram grew like crazy though!

Yes you can.  From first hand experience -- yes, you can.

Once a tree is established (two years or so), you can pee all you want around the drip line and they usually show nothing but gratitude for your contribution, but even there -- I've got a young mango tree that I've been attempting to help out that is showing signs of burnt leaf ends.  Salt damage?  Too much N?  Both?

For annuals, particularly small ones, you've got to use some moderation.  If you are out there in the garden (at night, under cover of darkness), keep the hose moving, so to speak.  Don't empty the whole tank on one or two plants, and certainly try to direct the "application" a few inches away from the stem.  Tomatoes are nitrogen pigs, but even with young tomatoes, it's easy to burn them.  For brassicas, young herbs, and even grains (corn, etc.), I'll usually pee in a bucket that's half-filled with rainwater and will use that more sparingly.

But by the heart of the growing season when the tomatoes are 6 feet tall and the corn and okra are over my head, let it rip.  

Citrus trees take it full-strength.  You just can't seem to give them too much nitrogen.  Stone fruit -- I'll give them a dose once a month or so, but they seem more than capable of finding enough N in the soil.

And I've never once burned the compost pile by peeing too often or too long.  

I wish there were some way to calculate how much N has been kept in the system down through the years by faithfully taking a leak in the orchard.  My guess, at this point, is hundreds of pounds of N, with significantly less K and P, although measurable none-the-less.  If the NKP of human urine (as it's been reported) is 11-1-2, there are hundreds of dollars worth of free fertility being added to the garden annually.  

I'd say this: if there is any doubt whether or not human urine is too hot, then just pee on the compost pile and the carbon in the pile will capture a significant % of the N in the stream.  You can integrate that N-rich compost into your potting mix, planting holes, or as a soil amendment or top-dressing/mulch.  

Yeah it's a massive mostly untapped resorce

Marco Banks wrote:Yes you can.  From first hand experience -- yes, you can.

Once a tree is established (two years or so), you can pee all you want around the drip line and they usually show nothing but gratitude for your contribution, but even there -- I've got a young mango tree that I've been attempting to help out that is showing signs of burnt leaf ends.  Salt damage?  Too much N?  Both?

For annuals, particularly small ones, you've got to use some moderation.  If you are out there in the garden (at night, under cover of darkness), keep the hose moving, so to speak.  Don't empty the whole tank on one or two plants, and certainly try to direct the "application" a few inches away from the stem.  Tomatoes are nitrogen pigs, but even with young tomatoes, it's easy to burn them.  For brassicas, young herbs, and even grains (corn, etc.), I'll usually pee in a bucket that's half-filled with rainwater and will use that more sparingly.

But by the heart of the growing season when the tomatoes are 6 feet tall and the corn and okra are over my head, let it rip.  

Citrus trees take it full-strength.  You just can't seem to give them too much nitrogen.  Stone fruit -- I'll give them a dose once a month or so, but they seem more than capable of finding enough N in the soil.

And I've never once burned the compost pile by peeing too often or too long.  

I wish there were some way to calculate how much N has been kept in the system down through the years by faithfully taking a leak in the orchard.  My guess, at this point, is hundreds of pounds of N, with significantly less K and P, although measurable none-the-less.  If the NKP of human urine (as it's been reported) is 11-1-2, there are hundreds of dollars worth of free fertility being added to the garden annually.  

I'd say this: if there is any doubt whether or not human urine is too hot, then just pee on the compost pile and the carbon in the pile will capture a significant % of the N in the stream.  You can integrate that N-rich compost into your potting mix, planting holes, or as a soil amendment or top-dressing/mulch.  

Very comprehensive answer thanks

Marco Banks wrote:

I wish there were some way to calculate how much N has been kept in the system down through the years by faithfully taking a leak in the orchard.  My guess, at this point, is hundreds of pounds of N, with significantly less K and P, although measurable none-the-less.  If the NKP of human urine (as it's been reported) is 11-1-2, there are hundreds of dollars worth of free fertility being added to the garden annually.  

hau kola Marco,
You can have a test done that will tell you the N quanity in the soil, it can be expressed as a protien since these are done by quantifying the amount of ammonia present in the sample.

Redhawk