Travis Johnson wrote:Most of the time you can pull the old style hydrant for repairs as well without digging.
The key to these are to make sure there is good drainage around the bottom of the valve body so that the water that drains out of the valve, has a place to go. I say this because inevitably someone will leave the hose in a bucket of water or stocktank, and when the valve is shut, a siphon action happens and sucks all the water out of the bucket or tank. If it is a 100 gallon stock tank, all that water has to have some place to go. Gravel, and a pipe from that gravel bed draining to daylight will work.
Another trick is to backfill around the pipe with manure. I heard sheep manure is the best, but anything with lots of hay in it, or hay itself, will help insulate the pipe.....
Kenneth Elwell wrote:John, two thoughts. First, the "new" hydrant in the sleeve seems similar to how city water departments have a valve in/near the street where a service joins the mains. There's a pipe for the valve key to reach down to the valve way underground, and nothing but air in there... so I wouldn't be too concerned just as long as you are below frost-line.
Second, if your standpipe was bent that much, so then was the plunger rod. Your straightening of the pipe wouldn't have straightened the rod fully, due to the "springback", so it is bent and likely jammed against the inside of the pipe making adjusting difficult.
If you could get it apart, you could maybe straighten the rod again, or replace the rod and valve parts with new and save digging it all up.
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