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Green wood end sealing

 
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I,m cutting green wood and would like to know of anything that could seal the ends , homemade would be great .
Any ideas anyone ?.
Thanks
 
pollinator
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what about using melted wax?
 
Malcolm Thomas
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Thanks for the reply
yes thought of that one , bit of a problem if i,m on site in the woods but point taken . Looking for a cheapo option , ive got some PVA woodworking glue thats water resistant and will try that . Not even sure if its best to apply as soon as the wood is cut or wait a few days .
 
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It depends on what you want to use the wood for in the end.

For general purpose construction, placing the ends in a pot of hot boiled linseed oil or some other natural oil would suffice.

PVA is not really good, at the first hint of water it goes all slippery and snotty - big mess. (Green timber weeps a lot of moisture.)



 
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I’ve brushed linseed oil on then covered with a plastic bag.
 
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I've read that after cutting you can place the cut ends in a bucket of water to keep them pliable for a couple days until ready for use, if you're building furniture for example. Is it a bad thing for the wood to dry out down the road?
 
Dennis Mitchell
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Mark Tudor wrote:I've read that after cutting you can place the cut ends in a bucket of water to keep them pliable for a couple days until ready for use, if you're building furniture for example. Is it a bad thing for the wood to dry out down the road?


So I do not see a delete option when I tried to edit, so we will just get to read my mumbling. Anyway, we seal end grain to slow the drying of wood so it will not crack. When buy hardwood it is often painted on the end.
 
pollinator
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If you are seasoning wood and trying to keep it from cracking use regular latex paint, I kiln dry smaller blocks of wood this way.  If you have thick (1"+)  pieces make sure you put dried shims between each piece of wood you are stacking.   This will allow the wood to breathe.  If outside make sure the wood is covered with a tarp but leave room to breathe around the sides.   You can dry without doing this, but without a kiln set up, the wood will crack because of the different parts of the wood dry and move at different rates based on their location in relation to the pith. Even if its quartersawn, you will get cracking if it drys to fast.

Maybe more info than you want.  

I use white latex paint.  Also,  there is a commercial product called Anchorseal.
 
pollinator
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+1 on the latex paint.  You can get cheap gallons at many hardware stores that were mixed but then not wanted (assuming you don't mind the colors!)
 
pollinator
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Anchorseal is the commercial product designed for just what you want to do.  I've no experience with it as it is too expensive for me after shipping is added on and no one in the state stocks it.  That said, go to your local big box home store and get cans of mistint latex paint for cheap.  Won't work quite as good as the anchorseal from what I understand, but works to help slow the drying of the end grain.  May have to recoat after a period of time.
 
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