Another problem with string trimmers not mentioned in the video is the permanence of the bits of 'string' that break off. I used a string trimmer several years ago and am still finding little bits of flourescent green plastic in my yard.
Oh, yeah, another problem: my working (as opposed to dress) cowboy boots were dyed green for months after that little ear-splitting, nerve jangling experience.
Thanks for the great video, Paul! And please thank Brian Kerkvliet for his demonstration. I'll be looking for a good scythe now.
thinkin i may just have to get one one of these days, also it looks great for chop and drop or whatever, also great for harvesting wheat and other grains(obviously) but, could one use a sharp scythe for mowing the lawn?
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Deb Stephens wrote:I am convinced for sure. As soon as we can save up for one, its no more nasty weed-eaters!!! One question though... this appears to work great on grass and weeds in nice flat, cleared fields, but what happens when you live where it is easier to grow rocks than grain? I'm talking about the SW Missouri Ozarks. Are there rugged sapling and bush versions that laugh at the ocassional rock and stump, or are we just out of luck? We switched to doing our whole yard and garden area (about 5 acres) with a weed-eater because the lawnmower broke down once too often and went to a nice manicured lawn in the sky.
Yes there are brush clearing scythe blades, but they still don't laugh at rocks.
I would be very interested in information about heavy duty scythes. I figure if we could knock some of this back for a few years, it would eventually be easier to clear with an ordinary blade. If I keep picking up the rocks at the same time, who knows? We may yet get some of that nice grassy stuff to cut.
A ways down the page they say 3/4 saplings. I know you can cut bigger with good technique and sharpening, but you will be stressing the blade.
I always carry a hand pruner with me so I can trim the suckers from trees I want to keep.
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