Interfacing has two main purposes which are like a Ven Diagram - to reinforce for strength, to stop an area from stretching out of shape, or to do both at once.
Personally, I don't ever use fusible interfacing because if the visible fabric stretches or shrinks, the fusible interfacing will cause it to look puckered.
Regular interfacing is a non-biodegradable material which is formed in such a way that it is strong in all directions and won't "stretch on the bias" as fabric with a warp and weft will do. This is less critical in the "reinforce for strength" situation such as behind a row of buttons where a strong, fine fabric will do the job and I will often use scraps of cotton to replace interfacing in this role.
However in a situation where you want to prevent the fabric from deforming due to forces that will tend to stretch it on the bias (usually neck lines where there may be force all around), substituting regular interfacing is a reasonable option particularly for a new sewer using mechanically produced fabric. Sewing one's own clothes in a way where the style and product will last 10 times longer than what passes for "fashion" from a store is 2 levels up on the
Wheaton Eco Scale in my opinion. So let's not make "all home-grown, home-processed organic" get in the way of "far better than the current norm" to the point that people give up.
If someone *is* in the position of going further, I see two options:
Sashiko stitching as a re-inforcement: I didn't quite get the point when I saw an acquaintance struggling to learn this 40 years ago in Japan, but she was not doing the "decorative" version, but was using these running stitches to join an extra panel of fabric invisibly to the outer fabric of a lovely jacket she was making. (
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sashiko ) The fact that the lines of stitching go in different directions gives the same "can't stretch out of shape" effect that regular interfacing gives. You can bet this will take a bunch of practice to get good at!!!
The other option is something I haven't tried, but I plan to do so at some point. It's the concept of "felt". Felt is made by having the animal hair fibers mat together and generally keeps it's form and strength through thickness. I want to try to card wool and layer it in thin layers with the wool lengths in different directions to produce on a home scale, thin but strong felt. I suspect it would still be too thick for a cotton "interfacing" but was thinking more of using it as a reinforcing edging on a loom-woven fabric that would be looser than commercial fabric. R Ranson is more likely to know if this idea has any merit than I do, so this is a good spot to state the concept!