“Uncertainty is an uncomfortable position. But certainty is an absurd one.”
― Voltaire
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For all your Montana Masonry Heater parts (also known as) Rocket Mass heater parts.
Visit me at
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Just me and my kids, off griddin' it - follow along our shenanigans at our YouTube Uncle Dutch Farms.
thomas rubino wrote:Go outside and take a look/photo of the chimney cap.
Bethany Dutch wrote:Mine does that when it doesn't have a good draft which happens when the cap is clogged at the top. If everything is clear, then the smoke moves the path of least resistance, which is up out the top of the chimney.
For all your Montana Masonry Heater parts (also known as) Rocket Mass heater parts.
Visit me at
dragontechrmh.com Once you go brick you will never go back!
thomas rubino wrote:Well the chimney itself looks to be a good proper install.
Maybe in the morning, you could zoom in on the cap.
I suspect it's slightly plugged.
Be nice if the old guy would tape those seams, but all you can do is ask.
As far as the lever on the stove.
I would shine a flashlight inside when it's not lit and see what that lever controls.
“Uncertainty is an uncomfortable position. But certainty is an absurd one.”
― Voltaire
Douglas Alpenstock wrote:Looking at your photos, I can see that the installation has the crimped portion of the pipe facing down.
For a while, in the era of crappy wood stoves, there was a notion that this arrangement would heat the creosote and it would slide down like warm jello back into the firebox. I even recall seeing this in Mother Earth News, the catalogue. This is all good in theory, if the pipe would expand and provide a perfect seal for smoke, but in practice it was a complete failure.
As suggested above, those pipe joints need to be sealed. Muffler tape, or the high temperature gasket glue/sealant that comes in caulking tubes would do the job. A very inexpensive fix.
Michael Helmersson wrote:The woodstove looks like one of the Blaze King models. When I search other forums regarding smoke issues, the first question asked was "are you remembering to open the bypass?".
Can you confirm the make and model or post a pic or two showing more of the stove? The install certainly doesn't look to be a problem.
“Uncertainty is an uncomfortable position. But certainty is an absurd one.”
― Voltaire
D Barzilai wrote:I’m going to get some muffler tape or high heat caulk and seal it myself.
Thanks for the response
Dina
Michael Helmersson wrote:Those pics didn't help. It looks like there is info for several models on that chart, presumably one of them is the stove you're dealing with. If you could get just a photo of the front of the stove, that might be enough to figure out what model it is.
Douglas Alpenstock wrote:
D Barzilai wrote:I’m going to get some muffler tape or high heat caulk and seal it myself.
Thanks for the response
Dina
Yeah, that's what I would do.
To fair, it may just be an ill-fitting connection. Though I think it's unusual to switch pipe directions halfway like that.
“Uncertainty is an uncomfortable position. But certainty is an absurd one.”
― Voltaire
Michael Helmersson wrote:I'm still not certain I have the exact model, but I believe it is a Blaze King Princess. Here is a link to the manual and an image of the page explaining the catalytic bypass. I'm not saying that is your problem, but you seemed to indicate that you weren't sure what that lever was for.
https://www.blazeking.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/10/180-PE32.pdf (just a guess that this is near to your model)
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