Hi Rose,
Please, we women can do what the menfolk often won't. I'm 5'6 and weigh 165 lbs. Last I looked had all the right equipment. A functioning brain, hands that can easily
milk a goat, and arms well tanned from working outside most winter, legs and feet that carry me through a hard day. You do what do you have to, no matter your gender or size or ability.
Onto the keyhole. This is not quite Bill Mollison would do, but the location kind of indicated the design. This is very dry country(12 inches annual) and the sunchokes, being a member of the sunflower family like a bit of moisture. They will also work well as a wind break for the crops grown inside. The location is very close to the bit of run off from the barn the terraces(mulched beds) don't catch at this time and the point where when we do get precipitation overflows and floods the dry lot and the path I use to feed outdoors. It may prove to be to much moisture for them, so was sure to plant some in another higher/dryer location.
The idea behind a keyhole design is to maximize growing area and reduce the space needed for paths. It also takes into account multiple functions, such as wind break, and the better growing conditions inside the keyhole as a result. It helps create a micro-climate that can be taken advantage of.
Check out
Toby Hemenway's 2nd edition of "Gaia's Garden", he has some good info on keyhole design.
Brad Lancaster's Rain harvesting for "Drylands and Beyond" is also another great book on water harvesting.
In another day or so I'll post the planting plan for the keyhole shown.
There are other keyhole beds near the dug out one, they grew corn and squash last year. Beans don't do well in these beds as they are what comes out of the dry lot, lots of nitrogen.
Brad Lancaster talks about storing water in your soil. A lot of what is done here involves a lot of mulching and earth/rock works. The whole point is to use
earthworks;
berms, swales, one rock dams, etc to harvest the water by slowing it down and giving it a chance to soak in. Those mulches also act like a big sponge for now, until I can get the soil improved
enough to sustain more plants.
Hard surfaces like a driveway/road can be taken advantage of if you watch what the water does when it rains and do your homework. My driveway needs to be raised and bermed so can harvest the moisture off it more efficiently. Again, Brad's book is a great reference book on the subject.
Rose, why don't you post a picture or drawing of your situation. It may also be a good topic on it's own! )