Win a deck of Permaculture Playing Cards this week in the Permaculture forum!
  • Post Reply Bookmark Topic Watch Topic
  • New Topic
permaculture forums growies critters building homesteading energy monies kitchen purity ungarbage community wilderness fiber arts art permaculture artisans regional education skip experiences global resources the cider press projects digital market permies.com private forums all forums
this forum made possible by our volunteer staff, including ...
master stewards:
  • James Freyr
  • Nicole Alderman
  • Anne Miller
  • r ranson
  • Mike Jay Haasl
  • Dave Burton
  • Pearl Sutton
stewards:
  • paul wheaton
  • Joylynn Hardesty
  • Joseph Lofthouse
garden masters:
  • Steve Thorn
gardeners:
  • Dan Boone
  • Carla Burke
  • Kate Downham

Coppicing fruit trees

 
Posts: 26
Location: Hilton Head Island SC
4
  • Mark post as helpful
  • send pies
  • Quote
  • Report post to moderator
Has anyone heard of using Coppicing to try and extend the life of a fruit tree.
For example lets say you have a none grafted peach tree now they only live about 15-25yrs what would happen if you coppiced every 10yrs? Has anyone tried it?
I know most ppl would just plant/graft a new tree at year 8 next to the old one and just stagger things like that.
I was just wondering if there would be any advantages to trying the coppiced method.
 
pollinator
Posts: 3738
Location: Vermont, off grid for 24 years!
100
dog duck fungi trees books chicken bee solar
  • Mark post as helpful
  • send pies
  • Quote
  • Report post to moderator

Darnell Brawner wrote:
For example lets say you have a none grafted peach tree now they only live about 15-25yrs what would happen if you coppiced every 10yrs?



I think most full sized fruit trees are longer lived than that. That's about the age of a semi-dwarf but you'd have to make sure you coppiced or pollarded above the graft. Some of the oldest trees alive were coppice so I think it would work.
 
steward
Posts: 4620
Location: Zones 2-4 Wyoming and 4-5 Colorado
442
hugelkultur forest garden fungi books bee greening the desert
  • Likes 1
  • Mark post as helpful
  • send pies
  • Quote
  • Report post to moderator
Well I didn't do it on purpose but I have a pear and a cherry that were hit hard with fireblight. They compartmentalized the blight and began to send out new shoots above the root grafts and below the dead zone. I cut down the dead part of the tree above the new shoots, they were about ten and 20 feet tall when they died, they seem to be coming back strong and healthy but no fruit yet. Really just an experiment on my part.
 
gardener & author
Posts: 1705
Location: Ladakh, Indian Himalayas at 10,500 feet, zone 5
282
trees food preservation solar greening the desert
  • Mark post as helpful
  • send pies
  • Quote
  • Report post to moderator
I've seen apricot trees hacked off thoroughly at head-height in Ladakh, but I'm sorry, I never asked what the reason and results were. Anyway, they did appear to be growing back vigorously.
 
Posts: 148
2
  • Mark post as helpful
  • send pies
  • Quote
  • Report post to moderator
In my personal experience, old peach trunks get rot and then suffer fatal wind damage. Once rotted out I don't think an old peach could support the load of a freshly coppiced canopy.

The best option I think I could suggest is to sprout some of the peach seeds from your favorate trees, and then use them for grafting rootstock for the same trees. Typically when I graft sprouted seedlings, I try to leave one branch on the tree as the wildtype, so it could at least act as a pollunator. Don't be surprised if the fruit from the sprouts is somewhat different from the fruit of the grafts though. Peaches are less variable than apples, and there's a fair chance they will come true to type, but there will still be some variation.
 
Did Steve tell you that? Fuh - Steve. Just look at this tiny ad:
Heat your home with the twigs that naturally fall of the trees in your yard
http://woodheat.net
  • Post Reply Bookmark Topic Watch Topic
  • New Topic
Boost this thread!