typical temperatures inside rocket mass heater

Looks like I get ignored.

How much fireclay,sharp sand, perlite, firecement for 48 liter?.

Do somebody now this? Because it is not easy to calculate and I need to order enough,
the mold need to be filled in one go.

regards

I have made the core, from bricks, after the sawing I looks like a snowman. I did use a respirator
I like mine lungs.

This core go into a oilbarrel, like I saw on internet.

the bottom I do a 2.5 think isolation plate, I do need some tips for mortar them, I think a heat gleu is
better, or mortar them shot into the barrel with a perlite clay or mortar mix.

This is for fast heat purpose when I do work on the rover, and cold is bad, we have now -5 oC here
on places, colt to the vingers and steel of the car..

regards

Looks very good Kees;
Is that a 200mm core?

thomas rubino wrote:Looks very good Kees;
Is that a 200mm core?

The core is 150 mm, and is for a rocket inside a barrel.

Have to look how to isolate the botten where the stones get on, I think this can be done with
a layer perlite or a ceramic board.

all tips are welcome.

kees ijpelaar wrote:

thomas rubino wrote:Looks very good Kees;
Is that a 200mm core?

The core is 150 mm, and is for a rocket inside a barrel.

Have to look how to isolate the botten where the stones get on, I think this can be done with
a layer perlite or a ceramic board.

all tips are welcome.

What is the standard brick size over there?   in mm's is fine.

Scott Weinberg wrote:

kees ijpelaar wrote:

thomas rubino wrote:Looks very good Kees;
Is that a 200mm core?

The core is 150 mm, and is for a rocket inside a barrel.

Have to look how to isolate the botten where the stones get on, I think this can be done with
a layer perlite or a ceramic board.

all tips are welcome.

What is the standard brick size over there?   in mm's is fine.

Sorry did press the wrong key so a complain is send.

I have use bricks who are for the bottom and the sides are 30 mm thick x 105 mm wide and 21,2 long
the two top bricks are 55 mm x 105 mm x 21,2mm cut in on the corners for adjust to 15 cm tunnel.

kees ijpelaar wrote:

Scott Weinberg wrote:

kees ijpelaar wrote:

thomas rubino wrote:Looks very good Kees;
Is that a 200mm core?

The core is 150 mm, and is for a rocket inside a barrel.

Have to look how to isolate the botten where the stones get on, I think this can be done with
a layer perlite or a ceramic board.

all tips are welcome.

What is the standard brick size over there?   in mm's is fine.

Sorry did press the wrong key so a complain is send.

I have use bricks who are for the bottom and the sides are 30 mm thick x 105 mm wide and 21,2 long
the two top bricks are 55 mm x 105 mm x 21,2mm cut in on the corners for adjust to 15 cm tunnel.

Numbers don't seem to be correct, are you sure?  Generally, "long" would be largest number, is the 21.2 suppose to be 212mm long with 105 wide?   But with your numbers a split does now work out to being 1/2 of a full thickness?    Just trying to work it out.

21,2 is indeed 212 mm, mine mistake.

I have bought some aerated concrete 50 mm thick, and test it on a gas flame, it isolates fantastic.

I use this below the Firestone RHM core, because it is outside the flames it will last long enough.

Some is happen, the core is not excact 1 ; 2 ; 4 the burntunnel is a 4 cm longer, I can shorting it
but I think it is better to let it this way, I do calculate the riser over the burntunnel length.

I presume I need to  measure the lengths in the center of the openings like a 15 cm feed I use 7,5 cm
through the core to see the right lengths.

thanks.

There is not a hard standard for measuring core element lengths. I like to use outside edge lengths, say 1 from burn tunnel floor to top of feed, 2 along floor from end to end, and 4 from floor to top of riser. You can measure along centerlines as well; this can be convenient when making a cast core.

Precise proportions for a J-tube are not critical, except for the burn tunnel cross section not being larger than feed or riser. It is generally better for the cross section, if it cannot be square due to brick sizes, to be more tall than wide.

oke, got it  Thanks.

The core feed get 3 cm higher, this because of the system is build in a oil drum. So it
is complete flat there and the metal part who is bent around feed do fit much better.

the riser is metal tube with inside a blanked. (5 minute riser). I have

Use this stove for warm the place I work, it is a carport so not closed but the radiation heat do
work fine here. now it is movable that is nice.

I had made a mold for a cast core but did not use it, stones instead, I need to mortar them together
and need to be strong, what can I do use for that, maybe some kind of glue in stead of mortar?

I can mortar and then fill the sides also closed it in into the barrel. Remove it is then difficult
but is not needed for years to come.

regards.

regards

Did see this one.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AGUmiq3XPXw&t=1s

That get quite hot, just see further in the movie.

Nice and fun.

Hi Kees;
That little J-Tube rocket will spall itself to pieces in short order.
As an emergency heater, it would be great.  I could see it being used in Ukraine.
Perhaps as an ice fishing house heater, where you are sitting with it at all times.
But I would not use it in an auto shop, where you are busy working and not watching the fire.
It really fits the description of a "Flaming Unit of Death." It is a fire waiting to escape and burn up your Rover.

thomas rubino wrote:Hi Kees;
That little J-Tube rocket will spall itself to pieces in short order.
As an emergency heater, it would be great.  I could see it being used in Ukraine.
Perhaps as an ice fishing house heater, where you are sitting with it at all times.
But I would not use it in an auto shop, where you are busy working and not watching the fire.
It really fits the description of a "Flaming Unit of Death." It is a fire waiting to escape and burn up your Rover.

It is not mine attention to use that, but in the wild, it is nice and light.

I do make the oilbarrel rocket as in previous post, but the flu did put me  into the bed for some 12 days. To sick
to work. The reason you did not see a response.

But it is better now so I can go on.

regards

I have to mortar the stones for the tube, because it is 3 cm think stones I think I need better
and stroung stuf to gleu them together.

The mortar I have is to coarse to use it, need a 8mm gap between stones.

There is also mortar gleu in a bucket, I think this is better, the stones need to stick strong together.

some tips maybe.

thanks.

kees ijpelaar wrote:I have to mortar the stones for the tube, because it is 3 cm think stones I think I need better
and stroung stuf to gleu them together.

The mortar I have is to coarse to use it, need a 8mm gap between stones.

There is also mortar gleu in a bucket, I think this is better, the stones need to stick strong together.

some tips maybe.

thanks.

8mm in most cases for fire brick mortar is WAY TO THICK

your fire brick mortar should indicate a very thin gap  of 1.5 to 3 mm to be used, and in general  this type of "glue as you call it" is very sticky.  I have never seen coarse fire brick mortar?   But perhaps you have something like that over there.

it has been suggested often the use of fire clay and sand mixture, but again, I doubt if that is suggested to be used up to 8mm.  I don't mind to be corrected. But if you do have gaps up to that much, I suggest you cut your bricks to be tighter.

Scott Weinberg wrote:

kees ijpelaar wrote:I have to mortar the stones for the tube, because it is 3 cm think stones I think I need better
and stroung stuf to gleu them together.

The mortar I have is to coarse to use it, need a 8mm gap between stones.

There is also mortar gleu in a bucket, I think this is better, the stones need to stick strong together.

some tips maybe.

thanks.

8mm in most cases for fire brick mortar is WAY TO THICK

your fire brick mortar should indicate a very thin gap  of 1.5 to 3 mm to be used, and in general  this type of "glue as you call it" is very sticky.  I have never seen coarse fire brick mortar?   But perhaps you have something like that over there.

it has been suggested often the use of fire clay and sand mixture, but again, I doubt if that is suggested to be used up to 8mm.  I don't mind to be corrected. But if you do have gaps up to that much, I suggest you cut your bricks to be tighter.

Hi scott,  I did say this 8 mm because I had mortar with perlite in it and not very usable for gleu the bricks.

I have use a tube ready to use mortar who has just a layer of 1 a 1.5 mm  and did build the core now that way, it is very strong.

I am now here, I do work on it between other work. But it begin to get shape.

regards

Hi all.


I have now secure the rizer into the barrel and mortar the gaps so it is not leaking.

Can be tested but nabure will protest, even when there is no odor or smoke.

She is anti woodfire.

Looks like a nice compact unit Kees. I'm interested to see how it performs. I missed what is going in the gap between the riser and the outer barrel.

Thanks Nancy,

See you are a automobile engineer.

Then you like this also.

A 3 5 S  - very nice! We have an early 2000 and a changeover 3500. Neither are on the road though. I think the 2000 might be the next project now the Landrover is back on the road. Rovers are my husband's other love!

I like brittisch cars, most because of the nice warm interior.

It is a 3500S indeed, without any bad body rust, most is still in manufacturer colour.

This is a very healthy car.

I am working now around it, busy with the breaks, and special the back calipers are a big pain
in the a$%.

But now back to on topic.

I have test the rocket heater.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F1Xfv737CiU

Do not perform well, stinks.

Maybe the dimensions, special the vertical tube, do these need as big as the feed and rizer?

How to measure lengts? Read different stories. I have 15 cm opening, the whole system, a
longer pipe on the rizer did cause fire shocking sound.

regards

Have redrawn system a little, I have now use  feed 24 cm,  tunnel 46 cm, and rizer 100 cm.

I have increase the feedtunnel length to 24 cm, is now 20 cm.

That is the advice I see on this forum, I have also use rizer = 4 x feed.

if it works oke, I need not t smell bad things, now I do.

measurements are all from the edges.

regards

kees ijpelaar wrote:I have test the rocket heater.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F1Xfv737CiU

Do not perform well, stinks.

Maybe the dimensions, special the vertical tube, do these need as big as the feed and rizer?


regards

Please describe what you did not like about your test burn?
What do you consider the part that stinks?
Are you saying you DID NOT follow any particular dimensions?
Are you saying your vertical tube is smaller than your feed tube?
What sound was your "bad noise"?

I am not sure there is any help for this unless you answer these questions.  AS at least this might establish a base to start.

It is common to have the feed tube about twice as high as the system dimension (in US terms, 8" system and 16" feed, floor to top), as this is the standard firewood length. Other countries may have different, even multiple, standards for firewood. Starting from a widely available wood size will make operation easier. You want the firewood to fit completely inside the feed tube so you can cover it and smother the flames in case of emergency. Also, double the burn tunnel height gives a vertical intake draft, which then has a sharp 90 degree bend to introduce beneficial turbulence and gas mixing.

15cm is about equal to 6". I would make the feed height at least 30cm, which is still very short. Do you have a strict limit on how tall the riser can be? I have found that 1:1.5:3 works fine in my 8" system. The actual dimensions of my feed and burn tunnel are 7" square, per first-generation RMH advice to keep cross section exactly equal, before it was widely known that a square is functionally equivalent to a circle of the same diameter for gas flow. A 30cm feed and a 90cm riser would still be very compact; even 40 and 120 is not very tall.

Hi Glen and Scott.

I have a sound who was oscillating (not blasting ;-() fire because of to much draw when  put extra length on river.

The stink came from smoke, I do smell woodstove stink, I do not want.

For Glen, I have a barrel with a opening on front, when make the feed to long I can not put wood in it,
so did 25 cm long, the river is now 100 cm, that is 4 x feed, can not do more, so feed is now 24 cm..

I have follow the dimensions, the burn tunnel rizer and feed is all 6 inch. Because of barrel dimensions
inside I can not do make burn tunnel longer then max 46 cm edge to edge, with stones 3 cm each
it is 52 cm, that is exact the barrel width.

When I measure from middlepoint like peter do I get feed 16,49 cm burn tunnel  32 cm, and rizer should
be then 66 cm if I am right.

When measure from the edges I get feed 24 cm burn tunnel 47 cm and rizer should then need 100 cm
is this right?

It burn better when make rizer higher, but to high it get to much draft.

I test with upper barrel removed.

thanks.

kees

Hi all


I have read in the book of Ianto and Lesly.

These people state that the burn tunnel needs smaller then the rest
of the ducts.

I can put stones 3 cm thick on bottom, and than have also a ashpit.

then the burn tunnel get 3 cm smaller in hight. Because it needs
to be smaller then rizer for example. I do follow book here.

The size of the cross-sectional areas of
all parts of the stove’s internal ducts should never
decrease below that of C. In other words, the cross sectional areas
of F, G, H, J, and k should all be greater than that of C.
C is the burn tunnel.

I can see some agrees here, because it sucks better and burn better that way.

Glenn.


I can not make the feed tunnel 30 cm, if I do then I have no room anymore for put wood in.

I can do maybe 25 cm, I can make a closed metal cover, from a old can or so to put over fire in
emergency situations.

It is a barrel with core inside of it.

Compact so to speak.

I see, a cottage rocket type of unit.

The burn tunnel doesn't need to be built smaller than everything else, just not bigger. Ash will naturally decrease the height a bit during use.

Glenn Herbert wrote:I see, a cottage rocket type of unit.

The burn tunnel doesn't need to be built smaller than everything else, just not bigger. Ash will naturally decrease the height a bit during use.

Yes that is the case.

Using for warming when work on car.

I have done some measurements.


Because the rizer is round 150 mm, is 175,82 cm2  and the tunnel is square is 150 mm , is 225cm2  I
have the need to make the tunnel less high, the width stays 150.

Now I have in stead of 150 x 150 tunnel a new one of 150 x 120 mm and is now 180 cm2.

I think this is a best way, I have also make the rizer 100 cm high, that is 20 cm more.

the corners in the burn tunnel is just  wider in cm2 then round, that is why in the books the burntunnel
is less high with round rizers.

Now I go change and test.

regards

Do somebody now the sizes of the peter channel for rocket J tubes?

How deep it needs, can I bend 90 degree to get it some distance into the burn tube?

Most I see just point down and make the space smaller where fire go into the burn
tunnel.  I did read it prevent also burn up through the feed tunnel.

Thanks.

Hi Kees;
Here is a link to my thread.
https://permies.com/t/100852/Peter-channel-dragon
No, do not make any changes.
Peter has already tried all configurations.

Hi Thomas.

Thanks.

I see that yours go quite deep, how much I need to left over where the flames go
into the burn tunnel?

Looks like a small gap is left.

I can not see clearly because of dark pictures.

Yes I now Peter has did test what was best, some do bend it into the tunnel
but you do not and is as peter did.

Here I see on your thread that someone did go deep into the tunnel, it is have more
surface to heat air. But the mixing of air is way to far into the tunnel, need to start in begin for
for best result. See the pic.

That is not what peter did.



regards

A 1/4" (6.3mm) gap from the wall and approximately 1/4- 3/8"  ( 6.3 -9.5  mm) below the roof of the burn tunnel.
Peter's design is optimal.

I have a less deep feed, is this not a problem?

I have made smaller the burn tunnel so it is almost the same as the riser.
(2 cm2 bigger).

Did change the burntunnel and set rizer to 100 cm.

now it do fine.

https://youtube.com/shorts/WOpY8rFd55A?si=JZZRsKGAjLaXP-fD

Excellent, Kee's, you got it rocketing now!
looks good!