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Jay Angler wrote:Have you heard of this house in California? Started in 1906, Baldassare Forestiere dug an underground house to give himself a cool place to go.
It might give you some good ideas about both dealing with heat, and helping heat tolerant trees cope with your ecosystem.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mUKRPoQKynk
It was very much based on the geology of his land, and his knowledge of arches he brought with him from Sicily.
What really impresses me though, is that fact that the fruit trees and "home" are still there over 100 years later. If more humans would build with this sort of longevity and environmental mindfulness in mind, we wouldn't have as many disasters as we are so often seeing.
I'm glad you appreciated the link. I did note that "geology is everything", but I was really impressed that the orange trees he planted down deep did so well and have lived longer than surface-grown trees in the same region.Simon Foreman wrote:@Jay I've never heard of Baldassare Forestiere or his incredible work, and now he's one of my heroes, cheers!
That place is amazing, and he did an incomprehensible amount of labor to make it. He should be better known.
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Cristobal Cristo wrote:Hi Simon,
With so much land I would recommend getting a compact tractor and get a forklift attachment and a transportation box to move the stuff around. (PTO) wood chipper is another implement you will probably need. Without a chipper I would not have bedding for my animals and without that I would not be able to produce wonderful hummus for my garden.
Also July through September are the worst months to work physically in such climates. Just "sit in the shade and be patient". When it's warmer than 37 C I'm trying to do nothing. The toll on the body is immense. I'm trying to only maintain the plants by watering them in the morning and turning the irrigation of the orchard once or twice per week.
If your water tastes sulphuric try to pump it for 10 minutes to see if it has improved. Wells that have not been used for a while may have some stagnant water around the screen area.
Before you build even a temporary structure try to figure out how the water flows on your property. I have built a temporary coop and a barn in quite a low spot and last winter rains flooded them both.
Check the USDA soil maps to see if potentially you can have better dirt on your property and maybe deeper some clay for some structures.
Jay Angler wrote:
I'm glad you appreciated the link. I did note that "geology is everything", but I was really impressed that the orange trees he planted down deep did so well and have lived longer than surface-grown trees in the same region.Simon Foreman wrote:@Jay I've never heard of Baldassare Forestiere or his incredible work, and now he's one of my heroes, cheers!
That place is amazing, and he did an incomprehensible amount of labor to make it. He should be better known.
Jay Angler wrote:
I can't remember - is your land undulating sloped, or all sloped in the same direction? You might be able to use some of the slopes to keep tree roots cool, by planting partway down a north east slope. However, many of those decisions may have to wait until you see how rain lands and pools and travels on your land.
Cristobal Cristo wrote:I wonder if you ll also experience temperature inversion effect like I do. It makes nights pleasantly cooler than surrounding properties, but also secures night freezes in winter and very late last frosts. On top of that drying winds blowing most of the day. You will find out.
Cristobal Cristo wrote:
I recommend remembering about my recent discovery: sunflowers. They grow very fast and very well and give the quick shade and some wind break and later seeds for chickens.
In terms of water flows it's pretty straight forward: the parcel is a narrow cross-section of a tiny valley so it's just an extruded V. Water flows down the sides and along the creek bed and that's pretty much it.
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Jay Angler wrote:Simon Foreman wrote:
In terms of water flows it's pretty straight forward: the parcel is a narrow cross-section of a tiny valley so it's just an extruded V. Water flows down the sides and along the creek bed and that's pretty much it.
Is there any history of Beaver on your land or in the area? I've been reading a number of articles/books about Beaver in the last few years and there's something called a "Beaver Analog Dam" which can help reverse the deep erosion your description of the creek suggests.
From what I understand, these Analogs have posts hammered vertically into the creek bed in a curve and brush woven through them with the goal of slowing down the water to encourage runoff to pause long enough to dump some of its silt. Some people simply dump piles of brush in the creek bed to accomplish the same "slow the water down" action, but depending on the rainfall pattern and how high in the process you're able to start, loose piles could be moved downstream by the water force.
Many water courses in the west were managed by beavers who turned fast water into "spread, slow and sink" water. A badly eroded creek bed may need a bit of human help to start reversing that situation.
Simon Foreman wrote:One of the things I hope to do is have lots of ponds and channels and such all down the southern (north-facing) slope and store as much water as I can up there. I still have to look into water rights and all that.
I'm currently reading a book about the importance of looking at the local watershed as a whole and setting a good example and building "community". Lofty goals, but if we don't try, we can't possibly succeed! I know that on one of Jeff Lawton's properties in Australia, there was concern that he was stopping the water and the downstream people would suffer. There may have been short-term issues, but long term the creek flowing out had more water that ran for longer periods due to the work he'd done. That's how we convince people there's a better way. That's pretty much what Brad Lancaster did. I don't know that Mesquite grows where you live, but it's an awesome tree that apparently pumps water into the soil during the rainy season - Mother Nature's an engineer!I also want to talk to the folks who are upstream of my place on the tributary creek to see if they're willing to let me put in water retention features upstream. According to some maps there's a spring upstream, one or two parcels away. The parcel next door to the west has a few old RVs on it, and beyond that there's a house that I think burned down partially? Anyway, no one lives on the next two parcels right now.
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Decisions by federal, state and local officials to severely cut water allocations to Anderson Cottonwood Irrigation District (A.C.I.D.) and sell off the remaining allocations, have led to widespread devastation. The small water district provides field irrigation to about 1,000 residents of Shasta County. Seepage from A.C.I.D.’s canal system usually also feeds the local water table, helping to supply the local ecosystem, and domestic wells, with water.
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I was just reading an account of the benefits of thermal mass at shifting daytime highs to balance nighttime lows. Insulation helps, but in some climates, well-planned thermal mass does even more. There is info out there, and has been for years, of shifting summer heat to winter when it's desired, but the combo of cheap energy, conformity, and lack of generational concern has left us with a huge collection of poorly designed homes.The whole neighborhood up there is like this: thin walls, effectively no insulation, not adobe or cob is what I'm getting at.
I saw a video of houses in Texas that had the AC *in* the attic. My father would be turning at extreme velocity in his grave, if he hadn't been cremated!Every house has at least one AC unit on top (on the roof, in the sun.) ... (Our friends said this is the fourth time the AC has gone out. Good for the AC repair shop, bad for everybody else?)
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Just because your specific friends will do nothing, doesn't mean that some other person looking to reduce their electrical bill while still having a cool house, won't read the thread I started and try some of the suggestions. Even putting trellis up at ground level with pretty deciduous plants that shade the south side of a house, can lower the cooling requirements. (a suggestion someone added to the thread) So much of this is just being willing to *not* do what everyone else is doing!Simon Foreman wrote:I appreciate the effort Jay but I don't our friends are likely to change anything.
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With so many people complaining about the current high cost of living, you'd think they'd consider simple projects that *improve comfort* while *saving money*. So totally obvious!Simon Foreman wrote: It's seems so obviously desirable to me.
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Simon Foreman wrote:...if all goes well tomorrow, we're going to get twenty acres of hilly scrub oak in N. California. I'm so excited I can barely think.
Laura De wrote:
Simon Foreman wrote:...if all goes well tomorrow, we're going to get twenty acres of hilly scrub oak in N. California. I'm so excited I can barely think.
SIMON!! Congratulations! I haven't gotten past your initial post but had to respond because my family and I are moving to some hilly scrub Oak in central California in September! Only 5 acres, but I'm so so interested in yours and everyone's ideas for your new place. I just finished a permaculture design course and would love to help problem solve!
I'm from the Pacific Wet Coast - we consider 80F a heat wave and all hide indoors!Simon Foreman wrote:Yeah, the heat is pretty gnarly. I don't mind ~95F but once it gets hotter than that there's no point in being outside. You can't work.
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