Lets break it down per issue....
here are my claims, that you say you cant find back up for... they are all solid real things... you can study it or not I wont be trying to prove it to you, just talking about it...
here are my claims- verify them through your own study or not... and before you dismiss a claim, keep in mind i read studies from austrailia, israel, thailand, phillipines, china, usa, netherlands.. etc etc etc. over months. So some of these may be obscure, take it or leave it.... I will show you my own results soon enough.
1. water based plants in particular duckweed, azolla, algae (floating type for carp to nibble), Anacharis, these grow more efficiently then land based plants. they use the sun more efficiently. that is what i mean by more efficient. they turn more sunlight into more food faster.
2. unlike land based plants in aqua culture, water based plants do not need the nitrification cycle the way that land based plants do. what this means, is all that substrate in the grow beds is not needed. which isnt free for me, and certainly not most.
3. land based plants grown with aqua culture need additional inputs of a few things outside of the system. Generally these are store bought elements. potassium, magnesium, and iron being the most common I believe.
4. nitrate build up in lettuce, which a member here offered a good solution for, but still an added step. also Ive come across studies in some country showing lower nutritional quality of land based plant in water based set ups. I looked at dozens of them, pictures of many on youtube, never once saw an impressive plant, except a few larger expensive set ups with groups with more cash, and they added the missing iron and the rest. ....so... nutritional issues for 4.
5. Ive read studies on using live "meat" foods with traditional water based fish farming in asia.... things like rotifers for babies and daphnia for adults. the rotifers as a small fry... showed the ability to give the fish a better immune system its entire life. Many fish breeder in the state swear by this. There was added benefit to this as adults to, but not as drastically.
6. live food spread into the plant realm, the algaes, duckweeds and the rest.... are also produce healthier fish, in studies Ive encountered. I know for a fact my own fish are much much happier.
7. in regards to feeding foods like pelleted foods, and corn you grew and dried yourself, worms etc... these start breaking down nutritionally in the water rather fast. a few minutes tops. which is why 3-5 minutes feeding rounds is what is ideal. the quality of the food goes down fast after that, plus it adds the nitrates and the rest to the water, within a short period. with this to get optimum feeding youd need to feed many many times a day, they prefer to eat slowly all day, like a cow in pasture.... imagine trying to feed a cow or pig all it could eat in a few minutes a handful of times a day. the carp is no different, it earns its name the water hog. It is always looking for food.
8. In regards to growing your own worms and corn... thats great but its not so easy to feed it to them as you might think. Its also a ton of work to process some of those things yourself. corn? soy? you tell me how you feed it to them? Ive tried... they eat it, but its not terribly efficient. youve got to crack the grains at minimum. fresh corns works, but its only fresh so long.. the corn sinks when cracked, and has powdery corn with it that sinks, and become a corn cloud in my fishes water. they liked the worms, but never ate them all. I tried feeding them worms first thing each day, they are always extra hungry then, it wasnt easy... so its WAY more work if your going to use dry feeds, and not as efficient on many levels.
9. my rotifers, daphnia, shrimp, crawdads, snails, and plants... will all clean the fishes water while they eat at their leisure... a selection of the exact foods they eat in the wild.... I will be of course focusing on what the carps like the most that is the fastest growing, with a range of others for diversity. the rotifers are cultured alone, only for fry. the rest will grow in my plant grow beds instead of rock substrate. the daphnia, monia and related things will do interesting things for my grow beds... the eat bacteria and other tiny things in absence of green algae. study that alone, its a need subject. another missing link of modern systems, as I aim to test, im rather sure im right... either way its food my fish love...
10. i could if i wanted, take the water from the plants grow beds, and take it to an algae grow bed. finish polishing the water with algae, have the algae for biomass, and return the water to the fish, in a good state.
11. I could also use a DIY sand filter to finish off the water after the plant grow beds instead of the algae. this is a much more efficient use of the bacteria that do nitrification then drain and flooding grow beds of substrate. study the various bio filters... spnges, sand, other substrates and space age maerials some of which far out perform sand but are expensive.... oxygen is a huge part of all of them and at much higher levels for them then in drained and flooded growbeds.... with a lower amount of fih growing their food alone would likely be enough.
12. put these all together and you have a system that feeds a healthier, more efficiently prodced set of foods to your fish, that are easier to manage then processing and feeding dry feeds. You can always be assured of optimum eating levels at the fishes own leisure. You can bypass needing to adjust and perfect the infrastructure used for draining and flooding growbeds. a huge hassle for many, though many do it well. theres usually lots of pipe and connections, lots of places for things to break. All I need for my system, is a large shallow grow bed for plants (kiddy pools and yes they are safe, though any plastic isnt ideal) and as large as a place for the fish as possible. airpumps and airstones. If your poor the only other thing needed is a bucket
, and time. all the plants and fish to of course. i will be using a solar pump
to move water, with a manual hand pump for when its not sunny, which it is 6 days a week here.
Im keeping it simply and cheap for the solids.... Im going to vacuum out the bottom of the fishes tank, as needed, this will account for water changes. Water changes are good in such systems,(though i DO want to limit them of course) they increase vigor of the fish. I might also use some charcoal filtration for chemical filtrations... this works fine since I will use it for biochar. that might lesson the need for water changes, but since i will use water changes to clean out the solids, that isnt needed. Also malaysian snails will be in the substrate of the fish, aerating it, and eating a bit of those solids...