Paleo Gardener wrote:
The most important plants in a food forest are perennial, so you don't have to worry about any of them getting crowded out. Perennials take a couple of years to develop anyway (and more for woody perennials), so you could plant trees, shrubs, and perennial herbs now and come back and get a good harvest in 3 to 4 years.
John Polk wrote:
With enough diversity, an untended forest would balance itself out. The caveat would be that the plants most adaptable to the environment would eventually squeeze out the plants less suitable for the environment.
For what it's worth, banana plantations are extremely high labor intensive. The only reason they are inexpensive is that they grow in regions where labor is cheap.
John Polk wrote:
With enough diversity, an untended forest would balance itself out. The caveat would be that the plants most adaptable to the environment would eventually squeeze out the plants less suitable for the environment.
For what it's worth, banana plantations are extremely high labor intensive. The only reason they are inexpensive is that they grow in regions where labor is cheap.
Jonathan_Byron wrote:
A quote I have heard several times is something like "Once established, a food forest requires relatively little labor (beyond harvesting)." This implies more work needed in the beginning to establish a community of edible plants that work well together, with the ability to ease off down the road.
Another principle of permaculture involves observation before action - to me, that means living on the site to make those observations, reading, making very small experiments.
It might be possible to get a head start on a permaculture project by a one-time seeding of 20 or 50 different species followed by no action for years, but I am thinking such action would result in a few patches where desirable species are somewhat common.
If a site had timber, I would leave it to be and grow until I could spend time on-site develop a good plan.
Regardless of the site, I would consider adding nitrogen fixers, dynamic accumulators, and other plants that would pave the way, increase biological diversity, and which could provide some value.
Manu wrote:
Given that you will be away from your land for a while, you might want to invest in a piece of land that is already productive. For instance I would seek land with well established oaks for acorn (a great flour substitute) and some open field that could later be molded to a more productive landscape once you settle (during your absence, the untouched open field will have a chance to develop a healthier soil community).
Once you identify the region you want buy in, study the native edible plant community then spend your leave time driving around searching for areas that may provide you with that piece of productive land.
Also, once you get your land, spend your leave time improving soil/moisture/drainage characteristics (hugekulturs, mulching etc...) as needed and wait until you settle before planting fruit trees or other edible plants (this could easily accommodate an erratic military work schedule where only a two or three week visit once a year is possible). When you do settle, that nurturing soil will be more than ready to take on those plants. A tree planted in a rich soil could easily outgrow one planted several years earlier in a less fertile soil environment.
Brenda
Bloom where you are planted.
http://restfultrailsfoodforestgarden.blogspot.com/
Brenda Groth wrote:
you don't say where..here in Michigan we can't grow bananas
here I grow a lot of plants that pretty much take care of themselves most of the year and you could do some "on leave" work on them when you have the time.
I would suggest perennials such as jerusalem artichokes, rhubarb, horseradish, herbs, etc..I also would put in flowers if you have the availability like edible flowers esp ..daylillies, mallows, hollyhocks, violets, etc..for feedint the wildlife esp..the bees and parasitic wasps.
I would put in a large variety of fruit trees, but if you have predatory animals protect them from those, with cages or wraps...also I would put in grapes and kiwis as well as ornamental vines and climbers, brambles and other berry bearing bushes and trees and nut trees and shrubs..
see my plant list on my blgo
Brenda
Bloom where you are planted.
http://restfultrailsfoodforestgarden.blogspot.com/
Paul Cereghino- Ecosystem Guild
Maritime Temperate Coniferous Rainforest - Mild Wet Winter, Dry Summer
Paul Cereghino wrote:
I'd say: Plant and walk-away success depends on the degree of site prep, species choice, stock choice, and your climate.
The more site prep you do both in enriching soil and reducing competition the more likely you are to get establishment without maintenance...
The more aggressive and native-ish the species, the more likely you are to.... (note I don't mean native to ecoregion, just native to climate, so it is good to know the ecological origin of your cultivated species.)
The younger and better condition the stock is in the more likely you are to...
but young stock needs better competition control.
The less stressful the drought, the more likely you are to...
Less stressful sites pay require more initial control of competition, as they are more competitive environments.
Instead of 'hole' replace your maxim with 'site'... the old strategy of heavily ammending the planting hole can lead to problems with root penetration in some sites/species/climates. Ammend a zone around your outplanting stock to encourage full occupation of the site.
I'd reinforce the wisdom of understanding native vegetation.
"To oppose something is to maintain it" -- Ursula LeGuin
Salamander wrote:
Seems as though planting some nitrogen fixing trees would be a good idea. They can grow and improve the soil while you're out killing people, and when you come back you can cut them down for even better soil, then get to work on planting the food forest you've been planning for 4 years.
The ultimate goal of farming is not the growing of crops, but the cultivation and perfection of human beings. - Masanobu Fukuoka
hubert cumberdale wrote:
dont forget nitrogen fixing shrubs.
... amend a broader area, with native plants to the climate...
Your saying the roots would be fine until they reach the outer parts of the hole being unable to penetrate the change in soil?
Paul Cereghino- Ecosystem Guild
Maritime Temperate Coniferous Rainforest - Mild Wet Winter, Dry Summer
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