• Post Reply Bookmark Topic Watch Topic
  • New Topic
permaculture forums growies critters building homesteading energy monies kitchen purity ungarbage community wilderness fiber arts art permaculture artisans regional education skip experiences global resources cider press projects digital market permies.com pie forums private forums all forums
this forum made possible by our volunteer staff, including ...
master stewards:
  • Nancy Reading
  • Carla Burke
  • r ranson
  • John F Dean
  • paul wheaton
  • Pearl Sutton
stewards:
  • Jay Angler
  • Liv Smith
  • Leigh Tate
master gardeners:
  • Christopher Weeks
  • Timothy Norton
gardeners:
  • thomas rubino
  • Jeremy VanGelder
  • Maieshe Ljin

Help with diseased apple tree

  • Likes 4
  • Mark post as helpful
  • send pies
    Number of slices to send:
    Optional 'thank-you' note:
  • Quote
  • Report post to moderator
Hi - I have a few apple trees that are suffering from something, but I can't tell if its Fire Blight or Cedar Apple Rust, or something else?   Any help would be welcome!
Screenshot_10_7_19__8_11_PM.jpg
[Thumbnail for Screenshot_10_7_19__8_11_PM.jpg]
 
pollinator
Posts: 1190
Location: Nevada, Mo 64772
123
  • Likes 1
  • Mark post as helpful
  • send pies
    Number of slices to send:
    Optional 'thank-you' note:
  • Quote
  • Report post to moderator
I would guess Cedar Apple Rust. Not sure though. Probably someone on here will be able to tell for sure.  It could have more than one disease. My trees with CAR didn’t have the large black areas.  It looks like a small tree. Is it still in a pot? I would seriously consider not planting it unless you have another area with no cedars. What variety is it? Some varieties are much more resistant than others.

I’m going to do some grafting on mine and change the variety of some of the branches.
 
ScottLatchkey Campbell
Posts: 4
  • Likes 2
  • Mark post as helpful
  • send pies
    Number of slices to send:
    Optional 'thank-you' note:
  • Quote
  • Report post to moderator
Thanks, Ken!  I believe its a Honey Crisp.  It is small, but not in a pot....its been in the ground for 2 years now, planted as bare root.
 
steward
Posts: 2878
Location: Zone 7b/8a Southeast US
1106
4
forest garden fish trees foraging earthworks food preservation cooking bee woodworking homestead ungarbage
  • Likes 2
  • Mark post as helpful
  • send pies
    Number of slices to send:
    Optional 'thank-you' note:
  • Quote
  • Report post to moderator
If you have pictures of the area around the base of the tree and a full tree shot Scott, that can be really helpful.

Good drainage and healthy soil with lots of organic matter can help the tree better fight off diseases. Like Ken mentioned, some apple varieties seem to be susceptible to certain diseases, even in the most ideal situation.

I'm not sure where your location is, but my Honeycrisp struggles here in our warmer climate, as it seems to prefer colder climates.
 
ScottLatchkey Campbell
Posts: 4
  • Likes 2
  • Mark post as helpful
  • send pies
    Number of slices to send:
    Optional 'thank-you' note:
  • Quote
  • Report post to moderator
Thanks, Steve.  I'll take some more pics this weekend.  We live in the Willamette Valley of Oregon - Dundee to be specific.  A very damp/humid summer which may have contributed to it?
 
gardener
Posts: 6814
Location: Arkansas - Zone 7B/8A stoney, sandy loam soil pH 6.5
1647
hugelkultur dog forest garden duck fish fungi hunting books chicken writing homestead
  • Likes 1
  • Mark post as helpful
  • send pies
    Number of slices to send:
    Optional 'thank-you' note:
  • Quote
  • Report post to moderator
From this one photo that is fire blight, fire blight tends to only affect the leaves not the stems like CAR. Car will infect the branch as well as the leaves.

Honey Crisp trees are actually meant for zones 4-6, they have a requirement of more cold days than most apples and they don't do well from zone 7 thru 10.

I'd try to get some really good compost to make an aerated tea with then spray the whole tree and the soil around the roots.
After that first treatment try to use a compost tea to water the tree two weeks after the spraying.

Redhawk
 
ScottLatchkey Campbell
Posts: 4
  • Likes 2
  • Mark post as helpful
  • send pies
    Number of slices to send:
    Optional 'thank-you' note:
  • Quote
  • Report post to moderator
OK - here's a full picture.  Thanks for all the advice!
Screenshot_10_13_19__9_35_AM.jpg
[Thumbnail for Screenshot_10_13_19__9_35_AM.jpg]
 
Steve Thorn
steward
Posts: 2878
Location: Zone 7b/8a Southeast US
1106
4
forest garden fish trees foraging earthworks food preservation cooking bee woodworking homestead ungarbage
  • Mark post as helpful
  • send pies
    Number of slices to send:
    Optional 'thank-you' note:
  • Quote
  • Report post to moderator
Great photo Scott!

I can't tell for sure based on the photo, but it looks like your soil is pretty rich in organic matter (circled in the bottom left) which is great!

I would guess the problem may be from not enough drainage. It looks like the water may be coming down the hill from the top right and creating a wet spot near your tree.

Maybe a small drainage ditch could be dug so the water could be diverted away from the tree, if it is in a wet spot, avoiding getting too close to the tree roots.

I've created some mounds around my fruit trees in wet places that have really helped their health and growth. Here's a link to that thread.

Building a Fruit Tree Mound to Create Own Root Fruit Trees and Increase Soil Drainage in a Wet Area

Hope this guess based on the photo was helpful!
20191013_133313.jpg
[Thumbnail for 20191013_133313.jpg]
 
A lot of people cry when they cut onions. The trick is not to form an emotional bond. This tiny ad told me:
GAMCOD 2025: 200 square feet; Zero degrees F or colder; calories cheap and easy
https://permies.com/wiki/270034/GAMCOD-square-feet-degrees-colder
reply
    Bookmark Topic Watch Topic
  • New Topic