• Post Reply Bookmark Topic Watch Topic
  • New Topic
permaculture forums growies critters building homesteading energy monies kitchen purity ungarbage community wilderness fiber arts art permaculture artisans regional education skip experiences global resources cider press projects digital market permies.com pie forums private forums all forums
this forum made possible by our volunteer staff, including ...
master stewards:
  • Carla Burke
  • John F Dean
  • Timothy Norton
  • Nancy Reading
  • r ranson
  • Jay Angler
  • Pearl Sutton
stewards:
  • paul wheaton
  • Tereza Okava
  • Andrés Bernal
master gardeners:
  • Christopher Weeks
gardeners:
  • Jeremy VanGelder
  • M Ljin
  • Matt McSpadden

Best materials for north facing wall of new greenhouse?

 
Posts: 12
2
  • Likes 4
  • Mark post as helpful
  • send pies
    Number of slices to send:
    Optional 'thank-you' note:
  • Quote
  • Report post to moderator
Hi everyone, we’ve had the good fortune of having the majority of a Santa Barbara deluxe model greenhouse basically fall in our laps for a very low price. It is missing a few glass panels, and our plan so far is to rearrange the panels to make a solid north facing wall (the original kit is for four glass walls). We would ideally like to make this wall have a high thermal mass, but I’m not sure whether we have the skills/budget to do this (i.e. it would be great to build or pay someone to build a structurally sound brick wall, but that’s unlikely). I was wondering whether anyone has any creative ideas. Alternatively, would it make more sense to simply insulate this wall really well, and find other placed to incorporate thermal mass, such as using brick/cinderblock to construct benches/walkways/line raised beds?
 
pollinator
Posts: 1091
Location: Greybull WY north central WY zone 4 bordering on 3
329
hugelkultur trees solar woodworking composting homestead
  • Likes 3
  • Mark post as helpful
  • send pies
    Number of slices to send:
    Optional 'thank-you' note:
  • Quote
  • Report post to moderator
Cob or rammed earth insulated inside insulated with straw bales outside?
 
Posts: 704
Location: Sierra Nevada foothills, 350 m, USDA 8b, sunset zone 7
130
  • Likes 1
  • Mark post as helpful
  • send pies
    Number of slices to send:
    Optional 'thank-you' note:
  • Quote
  • Report post to moderator
Sarah,

What are the dimensions of the wall you want to build?
 
Sarah Teets
Posts: 12
2
  • Mark post as helpful
  • send pies
    Number of slices to send:
    Optional 'thank-you' note:
  • Quote
  • Report post to moderator

Cristobal Cristo wrote:Sarah,

What are the dimensions of the wall you want to build?



It’s a 9x12. The north wall will be one of the long walls.
 
master steward
Posts: 7680
Location: southern Illinois, USA
2841
goat cat dog chicken composting toilet food preservation pig solar wood heat homestead composting
  • Likes 1
  • Mark post as helpful
  • send pies
    Number of slices to send:
    Optional 'thank-you' note:
  • Quote
  • Report post to moderator
Hi Sarah,

I would check out the cost of having that wall built.  Several times in my life I have received amazingly low estimates from reputable people. There are a variety of reasons for this to happen.  Sometimes a contractor has been in their off season and wants to keep their crew together, so they eliminate  their profit (a 2200+ sq foot house was built for $130,000.00 in 2005. The price included a double lot, 2 baths with whirlpool tubs, and large deck.)  I also had a contractor who had a surplus of supplies on hand that he wanted to reduce.  While this required a design compromise on my part, the reduced price was worth it.
 
gardener
Posts: 2906
Location: Central Maine (Zone 5a)
1465
homeschooling kids trees chicken food preservation building woodworking homestead
  • Likes 3
  • Mark post as helpful
  • send pies
    Number of slices to send:
    Optional 'thank-you' note:
  • Quote
  • Report post to moderator
Hi,
I would look at building a "normal" wall on the north. Using 2x4's and maybe some rockwool insulation. Then build the mass inside. You could just stack cinder blocks. Or maybe even a gabion wall (which is just a metal case filled with loose rocks).
 
steward
Posts: 17630
Location: USDA Zone 8a
4521
dog hunting food preservation cooking bee greening the desert
  • Mark post as helpful
  • send pies
    Number of slices to send:
    Optional 'thank-you' note:
  • Quote
  • Report post to moderator
hay or straw bales would be a great thermal mass until you decide other options.
 
Rocket Scientist
Posts: 4648
Location: Upstate NY, zone 5
636
5
  • Likes 5
  • Mark post as helpful
  • send pies
    Number of slices to send:
    Optional 'thank-you' note:
  • Quote
  • Report post to moderator
Depending on how tall you want the north wall, I would recommend a dry-stacked concrete block wall plastered with surface bond on both sides. This takes no more skill than piling things neatly, and spreading goop on the resulting surface.
I would then add insulation and a weather-resistant surface on the exterior. Or you could build a stud wall with insulation and stack blocks in front of it as mentioned. The surface bond would keep things aligned.
 
Cristobal Cristo
Posts: 704
Location: Sierra Nevada foothills, 350 m, USDA 8b, sunset zone 7
130
  • Likes 5
  • Mark post as helpful
  • send pies
    Number of slices to send:
    Optional 'thank-you' note:
  • Quote
  • Report post to moderator
I was about also to recommend dry stacked concrete blocks. It will be the cheapest, fastest and easiest for someone with no experience.

Start with leveling the ground first. This is crucial, because dry stacked blocks will not be possible to be leveled without any mortar.
For stability I would do double wythe wall 16" thick, so for 12' wall you would need 18 blocks per level. If you need to go 10 courses (I would not go higher using such technique) it would be 180 blocks. Home Depot/Lowes would deliver them for free.
I would fill all openings with dirt and compact. When you feel better about your building skills you could disassemble the structure and rebuild more properly.

Of course it could be build better with a proper foundation, buttresses, vertical reinforcing, concrete grouting, plastering, but for someone who never did it I would start dry stacking on the level ground.
 
Posts: 145
Location: eastern cape breton, 6b
53
cat fish ungarbage
  • Likes 5
  • Mark post as helpful
  • send pies
    Number of slices to send:
    Optional 'thank-you' note:
  • Quote
  • Report post to moderator
where do you live? Do you plan a year rounder??

make it easy on yourself - use 2x4s and osb (or pt plywood if you have $$) for a regular wall... you can always insulate later but this way you get the greenhouse up.. i have no insulation and the greenhouse is good with greens in march to the last tomato in early dec..

30_23.jpg
[Thumbnail for 30_23.jpg]
30_27.jpg
[Thumbnail for 30_27.jpg]
31_08.jpg
[Thumbnail for 31_08.jpg]
 
pollinator
Posts: 574
Location: Mid-Atlantic, USDA zone 7
442
3
forest garden trees books building
  • Likes 1
  • Mark post as helpful
  • send pies
    Number of slices to send:
    Optional 'thank-you' note:
  • Quote
  • Report post to moderator
In Amelia, VA a man sells 240 liter food grade barrels (previously holding pickles) which when filled with water, could form an excellent thermal mass for a greenhouse's back wall.  Then the back wall could be a normal stick-frame construction with your insulation of choice.  

Even better but more challenging to construct would be an earth sheltered  Oehler-style solar greenhouse like in his book.  Best wishes!
 
What's a year in metric? Do you know this metric stuff tiny ad?
Support permies and give beautiful gifts to gardeners: permaculture playing cards.
https://gardener-gift.com/
reply
    Bookmark Topic Watch Topic
  • New Topic