Matt Walker continental stove build

if the tiled areas are not in direct heat or high heat parts of the stove ---perhaps some lengths of 1/2" rebar tacked  onto a flat strip up so they  cant stray ---just resting on brickwork ---with some 1/2" cfb board over it--- and your tiles on top--- a layer of grout wont wet that much onto the cfb ---do it last once a fire is going to dry it up---the cfb board is surprisingly  rigid in the surface area of sizes being used on a stove build---i am sure thats way over the top ----but its simple----the KISS approach to deign and build method , could be a few other ways to this ---thats the beauty of this stove

have to say my fire up day is possibly a few weeks away-----i have to build my flue pipe chimney which in my usual ways of doing things is going to be over the top in working it out and the labour hours put in ,   i have to first put up some scaffolding  to about 6M ---which means i have to completely dismantle my 10m scaffolding at 10M high ---on the other side of the building----i just ordered 4M of 168mm steel pipe ----which came in today  ---these pipes come in 7.5m at about 190.00euro ---but the steel fab/engineer  place thats bringing it in wants to go in halves with me ----another 100.00 for 4 flanges------plasma jet cut to my requirements----searching around for cheaper but no one else had it in stock and  2 or 3 weeks before delivery  ---and no flanges.--- i  already had 2.8M of pipe but this will only get me from stove top to outside the wall and about 1M up. My last minute change of plan has caught up with me---not enough time to source some scrap pipe---but even this option is not  that low cost  --- looking at it pieces up for sale ---nearly  the same price  after travel time /petrol costs.     Twinwall stainless at 150mm is right out of my reach ---2nd hand that i looked at was 1000.00 euro for a complete system used on a wood burn potbelly stove -----but a few no use pieces included  , brand new for just the 4  x  1M pieces , a T joiner and top cowl ---its 1100.00  .  My original plan was always to build my own insulated flue system ---i just did not factor in the extra time and delay ---i had hoped to be much further ahead weeks ago ----

Twin wall, insulated stainless is very expensive for sure but, is a good investment for outside.
I quite often use single wall for anything inside and wrap it is basalt exhaust wrap.

yes the stainless insulated flue is the way to go , i am fortunate in that i can build my system and i have the outer sheeting material to place around the steel flue pipe i will be using , there is a way round any problem when you can diy , sorry dont want to discourage anyone here , but theres no build manual with a project like this --- its a start at it and solve as you go along---- and it takes an outlay of money ----quite a bit more than can be imagined at the outset-----but its an investment at/for several different reasons and purposes-----and of course the labour hours -----could be off putting ----but this project has and is a huge experience learning curve  for me -----great satisfaction in it as you progress with it-----i know my stove now and how to fix or tweak it ----its doable/possible .  If this was one of my big welded stove projects it would be almost impossible to make a change or correction ----my flue mis -judgement i think comes from a being blind to  how the rocket masonry stoves work at storing heat , my welded stove diy projects always ran a 4 inch steel pipe and these were hot ---all the energy and smoke going up the flue ---so they drew well regardless of no insulation ----i should have been quitely buying up insulated pieces as they came along up for sale -----anyway back to work

Fox James wrote:Twin wall, insulated stainless is very expensive for sure but, is a good investment for outside.
I quite often use single wall for anything inside and wrap it is basalt exhaust wrap.

On mine the first 45° bend on top of the stove is single wall as any heat there stays in the house; that joins to a double-wall insulated to go through the wall and then up the wall outside.  

I believe I'm fortunate in being close to a factory that makes the double-wall flues, and which sells to the permies.  A 1m length of 150mm/6in ID costs €75 including IVA (purchase tax), which isn't exactly cheap but it's cheaper than I was expecting it to be.

yes Austin , the prices in portugal favour the diy market , if i had to outlay the 1000.00 or 1200.00 , it would be cheaper for me and wife ----fly to portugal ---go on holiday ---and comeback with extra long hand luggage---but any savings would be spent on seafood ,wine and clothes----and the airlines that we have to use ---well they consider anything more than a shoebox size to be freighted.

sorry Jason , not sure of any definitive thought s of mine would be any help ----my only belief is that there is always another way and other solutions---i would advise stick to as many of the stoves sizes for the passage ways as you can and definitely stick to the firebox core plan sizes you are using----i have no practical experience of this ----but from reading up across several forums ----its a mistake  to try and change the core part of the stove ---the firebox----always leads to poor performance and sometimes this then seems to turn into its a badly designed stove---the two main guys who have improved and advanced the work of Ianto and Larry ----have spent huge amount of time  in prototype builds  and using tech to measure their steps/methods and achieved great advances ---which is openly shared with us----and use fine clay sand mortar ---nothing is a mistake then

Just been looking up information and specs on some ceramic board with a friend who i am hoping will cross over from the dark side ----of an old metal wood stove to the masonry wood stove world ----i have volunteered to weld up the metalwork side of it to ease and  assist him in the crossing over--- i have previously  noticed  looking at some older pics of ceramic board built core , that it looks a lot different to what i have called ceramic fibre board . Looking at the morgan site they list and show 2 different  products , a ceramic fibreblock--- available in sheets which looks to be a white colour and  a more robust type of material and specs say it is water resistant  , then the ceramic fibreboard s of which look familiar to me as the same buff colour and appearance as the product i used---the specs on this do not mention being water resistant ,,,, anyone used it or able to compare them ?

Hi Tony, the problem is that ceramic fibre is not as popular product for us to use as it once was.
No doubt ceramic fibre has its uses but also some strong health warnings too!
It produces very fine air born particles when handled or cut but the real danger comes from the material after it has been super heated as by that stage the micro fibres become non body soluble and could cause very serious heath issues if inhaled.
So if you use the board in any areas exposed to the flame path and are likely to be abraded in any way, you could be endangering anyone in contact with the resulting air born dust particles.
That is why we dont see it being used so much anymore for that particular use, however for places that are sealed behind bricks or whatever it will obviously be a safer to use.

yes ,there is a risk from ceramic fibre board , but after it is fired above a certain temperature when it begins to sinter as i think happens to all of the fibres  in use , and just about anything else that is turned into or becomes a micro particle with high temp "cooking" added to it ---that once breathed in can become a problem , so the use of them and handling of them must follow the safety precautions ---i am interested in how much of this fine dust created in these stoves finds its way out into the atmosphere and where or what becomes of it---plus the health risk posed when these stoves are de constructed for repair  or end of life---its something that has been a huge problem in my family and extended family---from uncles having been bakers all their lives and suffering lung problems---some family worked in coal mining with life changing problems , many of my family were in building and construction across generations and exposure to asbestos , sand ,brick and cement dust----even timber dust was a huge problem for one of them as a carpenter---so its always a concern when i work on something ---as i am exposed to a lot of dust and fibres created from grinding/welding---i do wear medical/industrial grade mouth/nose masking ---but not the total enclosed positive air feed as i used in the past---just not possible now ---but i does play on my thoughts

cutting and grinding ---part of my diy pieces of flue making ---another step onwards

But still trying to make out if there is  a cross purpose of words or simple misunderstanding of the  material choice being made , between fibreblock/fibreblok and fibreboard , are they made from same chemistry ---just a different process --still looking it all up

tony uljee wrote:But still trying to make out if there is  a cross purpose of words or simple misunderstanding of the  material choice being made , between fibreblock/fibreblok and fibreboard , are they made from same chemistry ---just a different process --still looking it all up

I would think there are different trade names throughout the world, I dont know where you live but in my neck of the woods, I tend to deal with a UK company https://shop.vitcas.com/
They offer a large, up to date range, of materials and up to date info via phone or email.
Some of the staff have a genuine interest in their products and can offer a lot of help (not aways though!)
If does seem most refractory products could carry a health warning but, I find ceramic fibre board the most obvious when handling as it so prone  to dusting. Once super heated the crust is capable of producing massive amounts of airborne dust as soon as it is abraded even gently let alone things like sweeping out a fire box.
Fire brick dust, on the other hand, may still be dangerous and fire brick can also degrade and form a dusty surface but, just nothing like as readily as CFB does.

yes looking at the information on all of the products available to the general public ---they are all labeled as less hazardous than  asbestos , and less likely or very probability  to cause/be carcinogenic ---- and warning of course  to not inhale dust , not to have bare skin contact and to have as low an exposure by use of the product as possible--but this is mostly on use of the product before it is exposed to very high temp---the ceramic fibres made from AES are the worst if they have been exposed to very high temps past their rating level ----useful to know and be aware of/keep in mind about what we are using ---as in my case i am only an over enthusiast amateur just dabbling in this ---now back to my welding ---

Hey Tony;
Having followed your build I can say that you are well beyond the point of an enthusiastic amateur!
You are just about beyond an apprentice ranking and almost ready to receive a Rocket Scientist ranking.

Good Job Tony!
It looks great!

thanks Thomas, but i would still put myself in the beginners class ----only one built and yet to fire it up ---in total i would like to build one more for my old cottage ---but that has to be totally gutted and rebuilt before i could start  ---maybe  next  ---i would like to build Matts hot water masonry stove version ---as you have for baking in --perhaps then i would be closer to the scientist level ----i think at that stage that  will be me done---hope to convert a few others around me to build their own stove ----- unfortunately i dont think i ever will---once the subject of costs comes up -----most start to twitch and wince---lots of teeth sucking noises--- i have calculated how much  spent at the moment and --- up to 1600.00 euros -----approx the same as it weighs--- so 1 euro for each kilo---but i have not put a price to the materials i had gathered up over a few years for free ----or on my time input---most of which i dont think should be  factored in ----its an investment.  Meanwhile  managed to make up another section of the flue a 90 degree , hoping that the bends i have made ---with smooth as possible internals ---no big lumps of weld  obstruction---and the pipe size used ----will compensate for the less than direct route my flue is taking  ----then  plus  the 30 inches  of horizontal pipe/flue through the wall ---looking up the suggested guides/rules for woodstove s ---i am on the limit following one and should be fine according to another. I will definitely have to make up an anti down draft cowl as well

managed to get this in and a section of flue through the wall , with the 90 degree outside ,so its another 3 sections of flue to go ---straight up and the top cap ,temporary bracket at the rear was to just keep the flue pipe  in place for the outside section to stay in place and steady it----but i think it will stay now ---as i have a plan for it----also made the secondary air inlet adjustable--- progress has been  slow , been some heavy rain and winds --had to tie down the planks onto the scaffold -----and place two barrels of water  on to the lower planks---keep the whole lot weighted down ---last big storm it lifted the scaffold and tipped it---fortunately into a tree ,so all the planks just slid off to the ground----also had to repair my polytunnel as well ---the back section of twinwall sheet blew out and tore off ---had to salvage the good bits and use some offcuts to repair and strengthen ---so its been an interesting past 2 weeks.  Big thanks for my new status as well

still at the assembly stage of my flue sections , its been fiddly work making all the little bits so i can steady the whole lot against the wind when it becomes a one piece structure, there has been less time to put in  , due to xmass and newyears meals and beer  ---  meant more time off the scaffold than on it. Just getting past our new year freeze up now as well , cant travel on our local roads and couple of power cuts have made things a lot more rustic than we usually live with. But its easing up and should be over by this weekend coming , but this meant more inside time and online distraction , which has resulted in my purchase of a pair muscovy ducks, and in true last minute planning i now have to put up my electric bird fencing, a shelter and some weed whacking of the small field for all of this.