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Experimental soil mix to grow Gevuina Avellana

 
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Location: Romania
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Ive added red iron oxide thats sold as a coloring powder in construction stores to this batch of soil.
Im using irong oxide to lower the phosphorus in the soil in order to grow proteaceae plants that need a verry low in phosphorus soil.
Acidic soil makes phosphorus non available but the iron oxide also binds the phosphorus and makes it non available for plants,fungi and bacteria  iet the proteaceae can still access it through their specialised cluster roots.
The seedlings are Gevuina Avellana,a cold hardy tree wich makes nuts similar to macadamia.
20191105_091359.jpg
DIY potting soil mix
IMG-20191115-WA0004.jpg
plants growing in homemade potting mix
 
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Location: Arkansas - Zone 7B/8A stoney, sandy loam soil pH 6.5
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Did you test your soil components for phosphorus prior to deciding to use the iron oxide? And if so, how much phosphorus was indicated by the test.

What nutrient base do those trees require for good growth and nut production?
Does the soil contain silica? silica is generally needed by both plants and bacteria/fungi for processing many of the minerals for uptake by the plants. (it doesn't take much only 0.5% by weight or volume)

Redhawk
 
Mihai Ilie
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Bryant RedHawk wrote:Did you test your soil components for phosphorus prior to deciding to use the iron oxide? And if so, how much phosphorus was indicated by the test.

What nutrient base do those trees require for good growth and nut production?
Does the soil contain silica? silica is generally needed by both plants and bacteria/fungi for processing many of the minerals for uptake by the plants. (it doesn't take much only 0.5% by weight or volume)

Redhawk


I made somme tests at the begining but after i mixed the red iron oxide it turned the water red and could not make tests again to see how much it lowered the phosphates.
These trees require low phosphorus and if you fertilise them a cow manure they tree might even die from phosphorus intoxication.
Its a south american tree and compared to the australian and south african proteaceae,they tolerate slightly more phosphorus but the soil needs to be acid ( acid soil makes the phosphorus non available by oxidating iron and aluminum wich bind the phosphates).
Silica is present in the sand.
I also post a picture with the Gevuina nuts from wich these seedlings are grown.
20191105_105214.jpg
soil test kits
20191105_105030.jpg
potted Gevuina seedling
20190524_120131.jpg
Gevuina nuts
 
Bryant RedHawk
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Location: Arkansas - Zone 7B/8A stoney, sandy loam soil pH 6.5
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Excellent! This is one of those trees that benefits more from the use of aerated teas than it does from the usual soil amendments.  (Donkey manure is by far one of  your friends for those trees)

manures you will want to stay away from are; Cow, Goat and Sheep. Manures you can use without worry (once composted or well rotted); Donkey, pig, goose/duck and chicken.
I like to mix rotted manures with chopped straw then use as my mulch layer, by keeping the soil mulched you are also allowing a slow seep of nutrients for the tree roots (if you can get some mycorrhizae onto the roots, the trees will love you back)

Redhawk
 
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i have been trying to get this tree species established on my place for a nearly 3 years now ,from my first batch of thirty seeds  only 2 are still going---easy enough to get them germinating but the slugs love them as they come up and then the voles love cutting them down as the get going---they would seem to be very suited to our irish climate and there are supposedly some well established trees around the country from horticultural society collections---but i have never been able to track any down.Still trying to find a way to get them prosper better ,my 2nd batch of seeds all failed ---they came up very well but too late in the year and rotted away through the winter---my current batch of 20 seeds is germinating outdoors now after being outside in pots over the winter ---and i will be looking up some more info on soil inoculation and treatments ---i still wonder how those horticulture societies managed so well---great to see yours doing well .
 
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I have been given some G. avellana seeds and would appreciate your advice about sowing the seeds. I am not sure whether I need to vernalise and/or soak the seeds before planting.

Do the seeds need a period of cold to break dormancy?

How long does it take for the seeds to germinate?

It is spring in the Southern Hemisphere and there will be a few minor frosts over the next few months and we are expecting a light snowfall tomorrow (we are 300m above sea level). The snow is unlikely to settle on the ground.

The person who gave me the seeds has never sown any himself so could not offer any advice.

Many thanks

 
tony uljee
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I have usually had some luck by using a potting soil mix in large enough deep container   ,put seed just under the soil almost sticking out and placed in a bright and warm site ,outside in a small greenhouse tunnel , success  has been dependent on the time of year when i can get hold of seeds , if its late in my season then i just leave out over winter---- in my part of the world thats wet and cold--- some frosts ---- very rare to freeze up for long ---or to snow.   Keep moist but not wet as they will rot , keep the container covered with a transparent lid ---to stop rats or mice making off the seeds ---and if the weather warms up they will start to germinate quicker ---and trap or bait for slugs ---they cant keep away from them when they germinate. Once a couple of sets leaves have grown keep in an outdoor spot to prevent fungal blight--  they grow fairly quickly --but dont like roots being disturbed----to put them out in the final spot---dig a pot/container sized hole and cut off the bottom off it place into the hole gently keeping soil in place ----then remove container. Some vendors seeds are just too old and dont germinate .
 
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