Garbage cans or buckets into giant Olla

I saw this video that shows olla made by plugging a pvc pipe with mortar on one end.

https://youtu.be/S28CmIKQX6I

I have some old garbage cans and buckets that have holes in their bottoms or no bottoms at all.
If I plugged the bottoms with mortar, they might hold lots of water and distribute it slowly , the rate mitigated by the moisture in the surrounding soil, just like terracotta ollas.

I could stack functions some , maybe,  but if I grow anything in the water,  I'm afraid there might be a gleying effect on the porous mortar .

Instead, I might add growing bed on top of the the olla,  with a nylon rope wick, to keep the growing medium separate from the water.

I just wonder if the water might get stagnant in the time it takes to use it all.  Would this be bad, or not make a difference?  Just a thought, good luck to you.
I had an old  garbage can with hole in several places.  I put some more holes in it, and now it's a compost bin.

I've been making "fake it" ollas by plugging the hole in the bottom of unglazed terracotta pots with silicon and whatever object "almost" fills the hole, then I cover them with an old plate of the correct size.

Some of them have ended up leaking there, so they empty fairly fast, but at least the water is going out at root level, rather than on the surface where it evaporates or encourages weeds. The ones that don't are supposed to work by the water seeping through the clay everywhere and the plant roots seeking that moisture out.

One downside is that the shape of a pot is taking up a lot of space that otherwise dirt would occupy, and a bucket would be worse. The advantage of the pipe shown in the video is that it is a narrow shape which won't take up as much space. I have heard of people using old clay weeping tile (tube shaped) with a block at the bottom and that would get the plastic out of the garden. But a warning about clay - if you live where you get freezing winter temps, the clay will break apart after a couple of years due to stress of the damp clay freezing and thawing. I try to lift mine, dry them out, and store them for the winter where they won't get wet again.

If you are just looking for a quick way to water under the surface for plants that need a year or two of help to get established, I've just used an old plastic jug (I suggest vinegar or two liter pop bottles - I find milk jugs are too flimsy and get brittle too quickly from the sun) which I've poked holes in under what will be the ground surface. The water will leak out fairly quickly, but if your goal is to teach the plant that it needs strong roots down deep, I believe intermittent, rather than continuous access to water is the way to go. I'm generally not in a good place to use the "STUN" method of transplanting, but I do water really deeply when I do, and gradually stretch out the time between watering to encourage the plant to put down strong deep roots. If a couple of years isn't enough to give a plant the message, then I'm often prepared to just let it die as my patience with babying things is limited!

Well, it's not olla, more like drip irrigation, but for new transplants or seedlings, I sometimes make a drip irrigater by poking a very small hole in the bottom of a tetrapak with a knife, and standing it next to the new transplant. Works well for me.

William,
Did the experiment work? I wonder if just fine sand in the bottom would work.