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What worms go in a Johnson Su Bioreactor

 
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Hello Permies!

I love getting excited about new projects and now I am on a mission to build some Johnson SU bioreactors. But there is always a number of hard to find details when I come across these cutting edge designs.

I would live to know what kind of worms go in the bioreactor? I understand that different worms have very different habits and are not interchangeable.

Will red wigglers work?

Or what kind of "earthworms" am I looking for and how might I find them?

I have read about red wigglers being a kind of earthworm and other articles about earthworms vs red wigglers and how they are different. Now I'm confused...

And where else to sent the record straight than here.

Many thanks for reading!

Matt
 
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Hi Matt,
I'd say the perfect solution may be under your feet! I don't know where you are located, but I'm sure your biome has a worm perfectly evolved to work with your local bio-matter, and indigenous micro organisms.

Mind you there are exceptions. There are no local worms where I live (the far North), and introduced worms do not survive the biome/Winter.

Maybe dig up some local species, inoculate your compost materials, and see what happens: Best case you've not introduced a non-native invasive species, worst case your bio-reactor is very marginally slower than it would have been.
 
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Matt, did you find out (I have the same question)? I also wonder at what point in the reactor's life worms are added and whether they are even required. What do you think?
 
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Don’t believe it matters, worms aerate and poo which  enhances the end product. I have compost and common earth worms in mine . It is amazing how the worms multiply.

Cheers
Anthony
 
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I actually listened to a podcast recently where Dr. Johnson mentioned using red wigglers specifically, and waiting 4-5 days after creating the bin for the heat to die down below 80 degrees before adding the worms.
 
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when I used to be a farmers market vendor I remember one market I would attend there was a vendor that sold worm casings and offered compost and I remember her telling me she started off into the venture with a couple cartons of earth worms from a bait shop.
 
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A red wiggler is a leaf litter worm.  I think if I was going to do this and use my local worms I'd likely just collect the smaller red worms from the forest leaf litter.
 
Greg Martin
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Curiosity question:  What is the advantage of building a system like this vs. layering your compostables on the ground and covering with woodchips as a mulch?  When I do that the worms borrow up from below and carry the nutrients down into the soil leaving it there as worm castings dispersed throughout the loosened soil they built their tunnels throughout.  And they do it very quickly.  They leave the woodchips in place which stay as a mulch cover for the fungi to more slowly break down.
 
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Please see the staff notes I added below my signature.

The worms aren't really necessary to create the reactor process.  ... but if you are going to go that route, Red Wigglers are probably your best bet or some other worms that inhabit the top mulch of forests, or from your compost.  Earthworms and compost worms are different.  Earthworms are mostly eaters of bacteria and other micro stuff in the soil, whereas compost worms are mostly taking and eating dead plant matter.  

Here Diego Footer builds a bioreactor:



Hi Greg martin

Curiosity question:  What is the advantage of building a system like this vs. layering your compostables on the ground and covering with woodchips as a mulch?  When I do that the worms borrow up from below and carry the nutrients down into the soil leaving it there as worm castings dispersed throughout the loosened soil they built their tunnels throughout.  And they do it very quickly.  They leave the woodchips in place which stay as a mulch cover for the fungi to more slowly break down.

 The advantages, the way I see it, would be the quality of compost itself that is produced in a larger volume, and the fact that you can do this while utilizing all your beds to grow plants.  But the way you describe is also very worthy of doing.  Yours would have more off-gassing, as there is less depth and so less critical composting mass., I think and it would take longer in some places to break down (maybe not in a damp temperate climate like you and I have).  What your system does do, is it creates an intact ecosystem that will enable your soil food web to respond much more quickly.  

Staff note (Roberto pokachinni) :

Also, I'm pretty sure that once I had the technique down I could build one of these or something that works the same in about 1/3 of the time.

Staff note (Roberto pokachinni) :

Update:  I watched another Diego footer video where he adds the worms.  So I was wrong about that after watching his original 'build' video. 

 
Roberto pokachinni
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here Diego interviews the invrentor of the reactor.  Talks about the vermicompost aspect right near the beginning.   So Johnson does use worms.  I don't think Diego added any to his, but I might be wrong.
Staff note (Roberto pokachinni) :

So he details that the predominant benefit is the fungi that naturally inhabits the bioreactor if build and loaded to specs. 

 
Roberto pokachinni
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Johnson and Su talk about the system and benefits:
 
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I've been very happy with the results of my Johnson su reactors. I put wire bins on top of pallettes, clad with cardboard. Fence poles removed after a day or so created the chimneys.
to keep them moist, I covered with some wool or old cotton cushions.
fine seed compost after a little less than a year without turning. The worms found their own way in. I add soil from healthy diverse biomesaas I build the piles for good microbes.
 
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I've been very happy with the results of my Johnson su reactors. I put wire bins on top of pallettes, clad with cardboard. Fence poles removed after a day or so created the chimneys.
to keep them moist, I covered with some wool or old cotton cushions.
fine seed compost after a little less than a year without turning. The worms found their own way in. I add soil from healthy diverse biomesaas I build the piles for good microbes.



Hi Susan Wakeman
Interesting that you used fence poles.  I guess there might be enough air in the pile in the first days that the lack of those perforated pipes adding oxygen was not a big deal for the start of the reactor.  Interesting that the worms found their way in, up the pallet.  Not surprising.  I've seen worms do all kinds of weird things.  They are probably in the hunt for that moisture and microbial activity that is likely to slowly drip when irrigating the pile... or do you irrigate your's at all, Susan?  Do you soak your material as Johnson does before adding it to your bin?  Does your cardboard decompose before the year is up?  What sort of materials and what was the particle size that you composting in it?  So many questions?  I like that you did yours with different methods and still got good results.  
 
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For those of you who haven't figured this out yet, the Johnson Su Bioreactor is a big stand up worm bin.

TWO PRIMARY STEPS:

Step One- Create a large mass of semi-composted material for the worms to feed off of.

Step Two- PURPOSEFULLY ADD WORMS when the pile goes below 80 degrees.

Only then will you get the bacterially & fungally rich clay-like product that is the result of worm castings.

It should look like this-



There is at least one self-styled so-called garden expert trying to redesign this bioreactor without the bottom palleting & without the landscape fabric.  It won't yield the very specific results Drs. Johnson & Su designed the bioreactor to create.
 
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I’m wondering if anyone has tried increasing the number of worms added initially to the pile David Johnson recommends 100 worms. I’ve added now 5000 in the hopes that I might speed up the process andbe able to use this compost after only six months instead of one year.
 
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Jim Lyons wrote:I’m wondering if anyone has tried increasing the number of worms added initially to the pile David Johnson recommends 100 worms. I’ve added now 5000 in the hopes that I might speed up the process and be able to use this compost after only six months instead of one year.



Depends on your goals.  If it is just vermiculture compost they yes you probably can.  From other classes number of worms doubles roughly ever 6 weeks.  But Johnson Su is about more than just compost but reach a solidly fungal mix.  The pile changes over time and number of species present in quantity changes If you watch a bunch of his videos mostly this takes a year to reach a good mix of species.  If you want to speed things up suggest that Dr Elaine Inghams stuff is the way to go.  Will link to the first video in 2 different sets of her stuff.  First one is 5 videos long and the second one is 4 videos long.



 
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Has anyone experimented with different weave densities of burlap instead of polypropylene landscape cloth? I realize that this will change water evaporation dynamics at the outer edge, but a friend studies micro plastics and plastic fiber shedding has started to worry me.
I also realize the burlap won’t last as long.
Thanks for any info!!!
 
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Has anyone experimented with different weave densities of burlap instead of polypropylene landscape cloth? I realize that this will change water evaporation dynamics at the outer edge, but a friend studies micro plastics and plastic fiber shedding has started to worry me.
I also realize the burlap won’t last as long.
Thanks for any info!!!



Hi Kathryn.  
I think it's possible to put straw in the outer part that meets the mesh in order to eliminate the need for any fabric.  Just make the diameter slightly larger to accomodate for the layer of straw.  Diego Footer is experimenting a lot with this stuff.  There has been some interesting comments below his videos on youtube as well.
 
I agree. Here's the link: http://stoves2.com
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