Well Pump without switch

I have an irrigation well that has never had a switch, the only way to turn it on is by the breaker and I need to install a switch instead and just leave the dang breaker on 24/7.

How do I do this?

I don't know anything about switches, I just want to say that we use a timer.

We water wildlife with a tank so the timer comes on at a specific time, runs for a specified time then turns off.  This has worked well for us since 2013 when we bought the property.

The timer was being used to fill the pond by the previous owner so I don't know how long the timer has been in use.

I can't use a timer because the water comes straight out a pipe and into a hose that I move from bed to bed tree to tree etc.  I don't have a holding tank and I don't have lines set up to water the plants.  I need a switch because it's not good to keep turning a breaker off and on every day and sometimes several times a day during the dry season. I'm thinking it can't be that difficult, but I need to remove all the old pump equipment that isn't hooked up to the present pump, the power box and the fuse box.

Agreed, constant cycling of a breaker is not a good idea.

Installing a switch is not difficult, but some information would be helpful.

Is it a single breaker or two breakers ganged together with a pin? That generally indicates if it's a 120V or 240V pump.

Can you give us some pics of the setup?

Installing a switch in a 120 volt circuit is one of the simplest wiring jobs.

As you know for certain which breaker controls the circuit, start by turning that breaker off. If there is even the slightest possibility of someone else coming along and turning it back on, tape the breaker switch off, or disconnect the hot/black wire from the breaker.

When the line is safe, find a spot convenient for the switch and check that there is some slack in the wire, as you will end up shortening it maybe 6 to 12 inches in making connections. Get a switch box, switch and cover plate; you may also need a couple of knockout connectors, a few wire nuts and some electrical tape. You will want wire cutters and needlenose pliers (which may be the same tool.) A utility knife will make removing plastic insulation easier.

Mount the switch box (varies depending on the item) and cut the wire so that you can pull both ends into the box at least 4". Strip the jacket off the wire from the point where it enters the box - this is much easier if you strip it before finally inserting the wire through the fitting. Depending on the box, you may need to screw the fitting down to hold the wire tight.

Strip a bit of insulation from the wire ends, about a half inch or so. The switch should have a strip gauge on the back to show how much to strip. Do not strip more than needed as this may risk short circuits. Connect the white wires and the bare ground wires together with wire nuts. If the box is metal, also connect the ground wiring to the box. Connect the black wires to the switch. Most switches have push connectors on the back for easy installation. Using the screw connectors is more durable if you can loop the wires and tighten them in place. Once the switch is wired up. wrap electrical tape around it a couple of times to cover exposed metal parts. Carefully fold the wires and push them back into the box so everything fits neatly once the switch is in place. This can take some practice to do well; think about how each set of wires will fit while you are starting the work.

Screw the switch into the box and screw the cover plate over the switch, and you are done. If you are not experienced and confident of it working right the first time, re-energize the circuit and test it before finally fitting the wires back into the box, then turn it back off for final assembly.

A 240 volt switch is more complicated. You would need a two-pole switch to completely isolate the pump when it is off, and preferably someone experienced to talk you through wiring the exact equipment you buy.

I should have posted pics and written a more clearer post.  I have put in outlets before so a switch would be pretty close. The issue is the old equipment it has the pump box in the garage but was incompatible with the newer pump, if I remember right its not hooked up to power now but I can check to see if it's hot. As you can see by the pic's it also has an old fuse box with 230 volts and screw in fuses. Any time I needed to cut the power out to the garage I flipped the breaker on the house. I need to remove the old fuse box and the pump box as well…that's where I'm at. I'm guessing check for power now and if all is dead, throw the breaker at the house and remove all of it.

Okay, 20 amp 230/240 volt circuit. I have not worked with the switches you would need for that, so you would need to get some advice from a professional.

Sorry for the misunderstanding, the pump is on a 20 amp breaker on 120V the OLD fuse box is 230V

That's a pretty creative wiring job. I can't say I'm in love with it. It looks like the ground wire is being used as the neutral. I wonder if there is an actual earth ground.

So, if I read the breaker box correctly,
- 240 enters bottom left
- the old 240 pump controller is still energized (exits bottom right, to the back)
- 120 is tapped off the bottom of the right-hand breaker (exits bottom right, to the front)

The switch goes on the latter wire. You will need a fair bit of slack though. I wish there was a proper ground, especially when working with water. This is not a very safe setup IMO.

Frankly, I would double check things with a voltage meter before installing a switch. And get an earth ground in there.

To add to the comments made by Douglas.   This is as old wiring job as indicated by the fuses.   You may want to get an estimate from an electrician. Yes, it will cost.   In my world, the safety factor comes into play to a significant degree.  If you do decide the electrician route, shop around.   I have seen wide differences in the prices.  Also, ask specifically what they plan to do.  I have seen estimates for rewiring where the electrician was planning on running the wire on the surface of the wall .... or not replacing the wiring at all. I doubt if you will need to be retired, but those boxes would probably be replaced.  And, there seems to be little correlation between the word done and the price.

Totally agree the set up is Mickey Mouse and the previous owner was an electrician…probably Alzheimers

I have been using this just the way it is for several years now ever since I replaced the old pump. I'm going to check for power in the fuse box and I'm pretty sure the old pump box is not connected even though you see the wires. Just glad the wires are visible. Not going to hire an electrician unlessI need to. My money priorities are elsewhere. The fuse box says 230 not 240 even though I never heard of 230..maybe the Alzheimer electrician? The breaker I'm using is 20 amp hooked to my house breaker box (120) for power. The only person I could ask around here who would know the history died 6 yrs ago at the age of 93….
I have tons of projects to do plus taking care of a huge garden for my food. I was ill for many years and still recovering so yes this should have been taken care of long ago..couldn't do it when I was bedridden..so now I'm doing what I can when I can.

Susan said, "I can't use a timer because the water comes straight out a pipe and into a hose that I move from bed to bed tree to tree etc.

Yup, that is how we do it, too!  We don't use a holding tank to fill the pond or the water tank, either.  We use a hose, too.

a two pole 20 amp switch. if the breaker is 20 amps. they are made in many forms from those in a metal box with big switch handle on the side to a switch that looks like what are in a house to turn the lights on and off. there are also micro toggle switches, push button, rotary cam switches.
I would just go with one like this.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton-20-Amp-Double-Pole-Commercial-Switch-Ivory-R51-0CSB2-2IS/202027031

it will fit in a very common sized electrical box or whatever its called. and a inexpensive face plate.

hooking it up is pretty straight forward. one hot leg/wire on each side and and a place to connect ground wire under the green screw.

Thank you for the post and the link. So far I can see the old pump is unhooked but looks like the power is still going to the old pump box and I only have a 120 meter to check for power so will need to buy one for 220 so I don't get hurt.

Susan Boyce wrote:I can't use a timer because...

You might be able to use a water heater timer. I'd consult some kind of expert, but I think the voltage and amperage would match your need. This one comes with parts to have four daily on/ off events. I guess you can buy more, it says you can use up to 12. It has an override, in case you wanted to switch it manually. I think this might be a good option if you'd like to use a timer, but if you don't want a timer you might beat either the price or the performance.