The peas and beans may rot off in winter. If this proves too much to be the case I will have to revert to spring sowing.
Balancing the planted areas; I'm assuming roughly equal areas will be about right for the different crops?
With different brassica in two beds will I get much crossing (turnip, swede, broccoli, radish)?
As I mentioned above, some of the replant perennials will need to be harvested after the grain is sown around them.
Could the peas and runner beans grow without support, will they swamp the roots and brassica?
The runner beans may be planted as a replant perennial instead.
Skandi Rogers wrote:
I suspect you will lose most of the peas and beans to pest pressure if you only throw them on the surface,
Brassicas will cross with everything you'll end up with something looking like a wild cabbage in the end.
sowing sprouting broccoli, in September? It needs to be in in late June to get enough size before winter.
Right now here winter barley is already sprouted, if it is left any longer it will not be established enough to do anything over winter.
The biggest problem I think you might have is nothing surviving the winter, I have tried many things here that should survive, broad beans, sprouting broccoli, rosemary, sage.. and none of them do. I think it's because we are constantly wet, very windy and then have repeated freeze thaw cycles which rots everything, even kale, over 50% of the plants do not survive past december.
to make maths easy lets say you have 100m2 in each section, that's 300kg potatoes/50kg grains/12kg of fresh peas and 30kg cabbage plants /90kg roots These are my yields in a different system but I would expect the ratios to be about the same.
Anne Miller wrote:Seeds need to make good soil contact so if you going to "scattered into fairly bare soil" there needs to be something done to make soil contact.
We use our mule or golf cart to drive over the seeded area. I have heard that some walk over the area. I have not read a lot about Korean Farming Methods so I don't know what they recommend.
A trick that I like to use when planting in our raised beds is to use a seed starter mix and a strainer to sift the soil over the seeds to the recommended depth.
Nancy Reading wrote:So I'm wondering how much digging to do to prepare this area. I'm pretty sure the soil is very compacted. I think I'll fork and make a smallish area into a 'lazy bed' (turning the adjacent turves upside down and covering with whatever organic feeding material I can gather) and make this into a propagation area mainly to increase my seed stocks over this next year to 18 months.
The rest of the area I have started to try and clear of grass. I would like to have this in much better condition in a year's time to enable more of the area to be productive. I'm hoping not to have to dig the whole lot, so I'm hoping that I can buik up the Daikon radish over next summer to really sow a lot next summer. I elected to get a gardeners' packet of seed rather than a farmer sack, since due to my location I would have probably been charged too much for delivery.
I've optimistically sowed some areas that I hadn't mown in the summer with annual rye and vetch. First I mowed the areas as close as I could, then raked off the loose grass and sowed the seed really thickly. There were three separate patches. One of them I managed to rake back over again, the others I didn't get a chance to get back down to. I could see the crows having a great time there, so wasn't expecting anything much to survive. This was the case for the two areas not raked; there is some seedling growth, but I'm having to look hard for it. In the area that was raked however, there does seem to be quite a bit of vetch and rye grass coming up. It looks rather patchy - one area will be thick with vetch, another thick with grass.
The idea is that the annual rye will out-compete the meadow-grass in the spring, but we'll see if there is any success with this.
The rest of the area is going to be a bit of a patchwork. There is the area that will be my lazy bed seed propagation area. I have started using up some of my stock of cardboard to mulch as much of the rest of the area as I can. Weighed down with alder prunings from last year it will at least start knocking back some of the growth over the winter. Really it would be best done in spring, and I'll probably redo it then as well. A smallish area is mulched thickly with the grass cuttings from the recently mowed areas. I've got more old alder prunings that will be useful for holding more cardboard in place, and will no doubt cut more this winter. Piled up thickly this will mulch an area shading out the grass underneath, and sheltering the grass adjacent to it. The smaller twiggy bits break off as the branches dry out and form a nice mulch adding to the soil structure in time.
I'm still wondering whether the Daikon will be sufficient to break up the compacted soil, or whether I'll need to double dig the whole area. Whether mulching on the surface will be enough to improve the soil over the year, and how to generate lots of biochar to improve nutrient retention!