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Cutting a 45’ angle without a powertool

 
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Following on from the low tech conversation, how would you cut a 45’ angle without using a power-tool? I have my own solution which works for construction grade work but not something like a picture frame.
 
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Tenon saw and miter block?
 
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This would do.
R.jpeg
Stanley 358
Stanley 358
 
Edward Norton
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Nancy Reading wrote:Tenon saw and miter block?



That’s my current solution . . . It’s one of those horrid yellow plastic blocks and I’m using a regular saw. I’m thinking of making a wooden block and asking my neighbour to cut the angles as he has big electric mitre saw.
 
Edward Norton
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Jordan Holland wrote:This would do.



Most certainly! Would love to get my hands on something similar. I had cheap version years ago - it worked for a while.
 
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Sounds like you want a miter box (sometimes spelled "mitre box").

Having a bench hook on one side is nice too, so it's easy to hold onto.

Example:


Also, depending on what you're doing, you might also want to make a 45 degree "shooting board" -- a similar homemade tool that allows you to use a hand plane to get ultra-precise fits on your joints.

 
Edward Norton
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K Eilander wrote:Sounds like you want a miter box (sometimes spelled "mitre box").

Having a bench hook on one side is nice too, so it's easy to hold onto.

Also, depending on what you're doing, you might also want to make a 45 degree "shooting board" -- a similar homemade tool that allows you to use a hand plane to get ultra-precise fits on your joints.



Thank you K - that’s a great two step solution.
 
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My favorite way to cut angles on straight cut piece of wood is to use a pencil, knife and Japanese double sided pull saw. Draw the perfect 45' angle on the horizontal surface using a sharp pencil from the outside corner on both sides of the wood. Draw the perfect 90' angle on the vertical side of the wood and make sure this line meets both 45' inside angles.
Next, take a short, razor sharp carving knife (1 inch long blade) and cut the pencil line about 3/16" deep by hand on all sides (the outer corner is challenging and optional). Now switch from the knife to a super thin, double sided Japanese pull saw. Work the small teeth side into the thin groove, guiding the blade with your left thumb. Cut the inside and outside corners first so the blade can rock slightly as you proceed. Once you slowly perfect the line with the thin saw, the groove serves the same purpose as the miter box and holds the blade steady so you can cut the line exactly by hand. Switch to the larger teeth on the pull saw once you see that the line is straight and deep enough to hold the saw steady without your left thumb guiding the blade.
This groove is thinner than the opening on the miter box and the saw is much more stable while cutting. I also find it easier to clamp the wood without the miter box.
 
Edward Norton
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Amy Gardener wrote:My favorite way to cut angles on straight cut piece of wood is to use a pencil, knife and Japanese double sided pull saw. Draw the perfect 45' angle on the horizontal surface using a sharp pencil from the outside corner on both sides of the wood. Draw the perfect 90' angle on the vertical side of the wood and make sure this line meets both 45' inside angles.
Next, take a short, razor sharp carving knife (1 inch long blade) and cut the pencil line about 3/8" deep by hand on all sides (the outer corner is challenging and optional). Now switch from the knife to a super thin, double sided Japanese pull saw. Work the small teeth side into the thin groove, guiding the blade with your left thumb. Cut the inside and outside corners first so the blade can rock slightly as you proceed. Once you slowly perfect the line with the thin saw, the groove serves the same purpose as the miter box and holds the blade steady so you can cut the line exactly by hand. Switch to the larger teeth on the pull saw once you see that the line is straight and deep enough to hold the saw steady without your left thumb guiding the blade.
This groove is thinner than the opening on the miter box and the saw is much more stable while cutting. I also find it easier to clamp the wood without the miter box.



I should have guessed from your previous posts that you’d drop by with a Japanese solution. Wow, so simple and elegant, on paper. I really appreciate your detailed instructions.
 
Edward Norton
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I’ve cut a dozen 45’ angles this morning, using Amy’s method. I score with a knife and then use a chisel to gently press in from one side of the cut on the waste wood side. This creates a little triangular channel no more than 1mm wide or deep. I don’t have a fine saw / Japanese saw, I have a construction saw with big teeth. The channel works and I have a very clean 45’ degree cut. Very happy with the results.
 
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