I'm not going to ..cause this isn't the right forum...but you have no idea how badly I want to ask how well the obama speech was accepted in Israel..
dang but i won't ask..
personally I hated it
forget i asked
so does lavender grow wild there? Near my old house there is an area known for lavendar and wine. it is an area similiar soil wise as here and I wondered if it this area would happily support both also. what is the geography like there? rocky?
I went to the GardenWeb forum and asked what I was doing wrong. the answer was "practically everything".
The #1 Rule for Lavender: The More Neglect, the Better.
Overwatering is the big no-no. Next is too much nitrogen, as it's almost like a poison to them.
They need sandy, well-drained soil (rocky is good, too), maybe a little well-composed cow manure and a bit of bone meal in the fall, and that's it. Prune off the top 1/3 or so after flowering to keep them bushy.
Susan does the same apply to cloning lavender, or should clones get lots of water? i am cloning rosemary, lavender, sage and zaatar (marjoram??..) right now and i think they need similar conditions.
I have some forgotten, neglected lavender that is doing quite well. I hardly ever remember to water it, never feed it, and it looks okay. It isn't great, but it's alive, which is more than I can say for the others.
You could take more cuttings than you need and try several ways and treatments, and see what works best in your local environment. Let us know!
to help them get established. I'm a dummy.
I have had some really good lavender ice cream.
Wikipedia seems to think za'atar is oregano, though wild hyssop and marjoram are two other candidates.
from Google: Apparently lavender mulch repels insects and molluscs, but lavender plants themselves sometimes die if the soil they grow in is covered in mulch.
I was looking up leaves absorbing humidity from the air or dew, trying to find out more reason to explain the survival of plants in arid situacions and i did find something from Israel on the subject, it is a bit of research i have not gone back to for a while.
Susan Munroes and Polyparadigms research has really let me know more about lavender. lots of cactuses crumple up and die with nitrogen as susan munroe says lavender does. rose macaskie.
I have tried making compost with them, and find that it's hard to get a nice warm heap. Quite a strong antibacterial effect. But once the heap matures, it produces a lot of fungal activity (confirmed under microscope).
I imagine it would make a great mulch under woody stemmed plants, but everything in moderation.
From the article:
It is our experience that so called "toy microscopes" are a real disaster because they commonly give little more than diffuse images or shadows. This can cause a young person to lose all interest in these instruments.
This agrees well with Rose's experience.
The same team has developed plans for a glass sphere microscope, which can be built from raw materials with no tools more complicated than a torch...to my mind, a more robust sort of design in the very long term.
It is easier for people to do things they understand. If everyone understands about good soils from a scientific point of view wont it help extend good soils.
Don't people like herbicides and pesticides in part because they are sophisticated. Lots of people like the sophisticated. For some the cool value is fringe and for others anything scientific like synthetic and factory, machine and of course the two can mix, sophisticated and fringe. Permaculture and organic really are scientific good soil could not be understood as we understand it now without scientist could it? agri rose macaskie.
Milkwood Nick wrote:
Microscope work needs a bit of training. Our scope is a $600 binocular model powerful enough to see individual soil bacteria. Not sure if it's worth it for the average farmer/gardener, but it has a high cool factor
very high cool factor! I'm jealous I just have a little dinky cheapish one for fecals on the critters. even that one is fun to spend and afternoon just looking at stuff!
Normal chemicals fertilisers only put in the nitrogen and phosforos and potasio and a few trace elements into soils and there are a lots of things scientist have found to be important in soils that chemical fertilisers don't put in and not only that, but chemical nutrients burn some of the usefull microbes and fungi in the soil they are too strong for them and they don't add humus and plants need humus and fungi if they're to grow really big. th eroots of fungi, micelium, hypha, behave like pipes of the water board, distributing water all over the field and lighten and aerate the soil and collect minerals and water for plants. They are better at picking up water and minerals than plant roots are, plants give them elaborated foods like sugars.
Fungi and plants also produce enzmes and acids to digest the soil particles, they do exo-digestion. Fertilisers don't produce enzymes and acids that are useful in the soil unless you buy very fancy fertilisers.
The end product of the break down of organica matter is humus, of the scientists type humus, not the type you buy normally for your garden, that is half broken down organic matter. This sort of humus is a fine dust that can be very stable and last more than a thousand years though as its very light can easily get blown away,and as it has carbon in it, is a sink for carbon.
It helps minerals take forms that are more easily absorbable for plants. I am not a chemist but atoms combine with other atoms in different ways that change their natureand their usefullness. For instance, nitrogen can be paart of an amonia molecule, which is a molecule of one nitrogen atom and 4 hydrogen. I am not a chemist thats how i interpret the letters and numbers "NH4 +" which is amonia, which eaten by bacteria and such becomes "nitrites" NO2, nitrogen and 2 oxygens, that further eaten by bacteria and such becomes "nitrates" NO3, niutrogen and 3 oxygens, that plants can eat, absorbeand need to eat. Humus is good at helping with these chemical changes and so it is important in the soil and not present in traditional chemical fertilisers.
Humus as scientist understand the word also behaves like gelatines absorbing and retaining lots of water and the minerals dissolved in it. Important in dry places, were they need more humidity in the soil. Also it is slightly acid improving the PH of soils.
You can buy humic acids for plants but they're a pretty fancy type of fertiliser not your normal, traditional, brutal farming stuff, that became popular before they understood all the different positive aspects of soil instead of just one or two of them. You can look it up in the sight of the people that sell fertilisers for sustainable and biological agriculture. TNN industries, Acheiving Excellence in Sustainable and Biological Agriculture-tnn.com.au/_general0/0201nformation.asp they have pages on it. fisrt a mention on one page and then lots of metions a bit further on.
If you go to a shop for growing marihuana, legal here, though its not legal to deal in it, you can buy microbes to improve your soil. I did and really freaked myself out. At first i felt really cool and then i thought, "gosh i am going to give myself some terrible illness". I poured water full of microbes and fungi spores, though microbes can anhililate your fungi but i did not know it, on my garden, till i got too freaked out with doubts about unguarranted hippy products. Apparently many of these products come from Canada. They sell microrrhiziae fungi for the roots of plants and fertilisers with amino acids in them. I am not a saint but i have never grown marijauna but i have found out that stores for marihuana growers have really sophisticated fertilisers.
The man in the shop said there is a lot of money in it, thats why they have expensive and good fertilisers.
They had empty cans of humic acid by the banana plantations, the main crop of the Canary islands. So farmers can buy humic acids. They were growing bananas on practically new volcanic soil.
Masanubo Fukuokas rice was not just healthy and hippy, it was the rice that produced more than the rice of any other farmer, with bigger grains and more grains a head. He was a soil scientist and plant pathologist.
I bet the black dust of the dust bowl was humus, of the sort scientist refer to when they use the word, accumulated in the days before the plough touched american soils. That woud explain why the dust clouds were so dense and black and so fine that they got through all sorts of barriers. Putting a handkerchief in front of your mouth didnot stop the dust.
Put the words "dust bowl" in google. agri rose macaskie.
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