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Cement water storage tank in the roof?

 
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Am I mad to construct water storage in the roof?

Our open ground water well is at the lowest point of the property at about 70 meters away from habitation.

Existing building and where we are extending a building is on the boundary. The house sits on the highest part of the land.

In terms of water, we pump water using big batteries and submersible pump from the well  up to the 1000 litre plastic water container near where we habit/live.  From here we use buckets and/ or 12 volt pump to get the water where we need it.  Unless we chlorine the water in the plastic container it will go green.  

In terms of design; the whitish wall in picture is 65cm wide rock wall.

We are putting a 15 degree sloping roof on 'new' build.  I thought why not build in concrete water tanks on the rock wall. This side of lean to needs to be raised to get a min of 15 degree roof slope.  The tanks could be on the wall in between the columns needed to be built to support the new roof.

The tanks would be est wide:0.5 meter by 1.5meter long and 1 meter high.  We could build in 2. In between the 3 columns. That would give us 1000 litres or more.  

That way we might have enough water pressure in the house to feed shower and kitchen which will be against the rock wall.  Habitation will be primitive and we use water conservatively.

Advantages:
Saves space in the garden which is tiny.
Pump less but still have water pressure.  
Tanks will be under our tin roof but in concrete so should keep the water in tank temperature more stable.

On the downside imagine those tanks bursting :-o

We could also buy plastic water storage containers and site them up there but I preferthe  ferrocement idea.  The water is very acidic so the cement might help balance ph?


Inspiration source
https://www.permaculturenews.org/2017/06/08/ferro-cement-water-tanks-affordable-diy-solution/
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Jenny Ives
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Well is further then 25 meters shown in photo as confirmed by the mathematician in the family.
 
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I would be afraid of what all that weight would do to my roof.

First, the concrete tank would weigh a lot, even without the water weight.

Does your roof have load-bearing timbers that can handle that weight?

My suggestion would be to have a structure built next to the house so that the concrete tank can be set on that structure. Something like the structures they used in the day of steam engines to fill the trains.

Do you have people who have equipment that can lift a concrete tank?

How would the tank get filled?

I assume that you will use an electric pump capable of pumping water uphill and then up to the water tank.
 
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Jenny,

I share the same thoughts as Anne.  Concrete sounds pretty heavy up on a roof in my opinion.  Just how much water do you need to hold?  Could you possibly use barrels, either steel or plastic?  I am just thinking about how to firstly  get that much weight up on a roof and secondly how much damage that much weight would impose on a roof over time.

I agree with all the advantages you already mentioned, but I would be concerned with all that weight on a roof.

I look forward to your thoughts and ideas.

Eric
 
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First, I will point out that the link shows building a cylindrical tank which is a much stronger shape than a rectangle. At the very least, trying to shape your planned tank more of an "oval" than a rectangle, would improve it's longevity.

Second, know your local dangers. Are you in an earthquake zone?  Water is *really* heavy, and it "sloshes". This is why most elevated water storage tanks aren't part of the building.

Third, have you had an expert look at that wall? Just because it's wide enough, how sure are you that it is designed to support the extra weight. If you calculated that the 2 would hold 1000 liters that's 1000 extra kilograms of weight on top of that wall + the weight of the tanks.

Personally, I'd build a dedicated tower close to the house to to build a single round tank on.
 
Jenny Ives
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Anne Miller wrote:I would be afraid of what all that weight would do to my roof.

Weight will be on the walls but yes it's a concern.  Unknown what weight it could bear.

First, the concrete tank would weigh a lot, even without the water weight.

Does your roof have load-bearing timbers that can handle that weight? No its rock wall I was thinking if building in water storage.

My suggestion would be to have a structure built next to the house so that the concrete tank can be set on that structure. Something like the structures they used in the day of steam engines to fill the trains.
I'll have a look at these.  It's got to be something 1 old man and a lightweight girl in a foreign language country could pull off.

Do you have people who have equipment that can lift a concrete tank?
No I was thinking it would be  built it in situ.

How would the tank get filled?
Cheap submersible pump from the well like we currently fill the 1000 litre plastic container.

I assume that you will use an electric pump capable of pumping water uphill and then up to the water tank.

we would pump straight in to them is imagine.
 
Jenny Ives
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Eric Hanson wrote:Jenny,

I share the same thoughts as Anne.  Concrete sounds pretty heavy up on a roof in my opinion.  Just how much water do you need to hold?  Could you possibly use barrels, either steel or plastic?  

Yes maybe that's the route to go. Slimline water storage tanks.  Or a tank that's small enough for a week if water.  

I am just thinking about how to firstly  get that much weight up on a roof and secondly how much damage that much weight would impose on a roof over time.

Our pump could handle pumping up to the roof we think.

I agree with all the advantages you already mentioned, but I would be concerned with all that weight on a roof.

I look forward to your thoughts and ideas.


Dammit, I thought I was into something here :(   :-D

Eric

 
Jenny Ives
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Jay Angler wrote:First, I will point out that the link shows building a cylindrical tank which is a much stronger shape than a rectangle. At the very least, trying to shape your planned tank more of an "oval" than a rectangle, would improve it's longevity.

Oh yes thank you for reminding me about oo shapes being stronger.

Maybe I could put smaller plastic water barrels up there on the wall that overflow into each other. Gives me a week worth of house water.  For dishes and showering perhaps 3 x 125l plastic barrels.  I already have these barrels.

Second, know your local dangers. Are you in an earthquake zone?  Water is *really* heavy, and it "sloshes". This is why most elevated water storage tanks aren't part of the building.

There are tremors on the coast but not where we live I think.


Third, have you had an expert look at that wall? Just because it's wide enough, how sure are you that it is designed to support the extra weight. If you calculated that the 2 would hold 1000 liters that's 1000 extra kilograms of weight on top of that wall + the weight of the tanks.

No experts involved just two people on a piece of land youtubing and googling our way along.

Personally, I'd build a dedicated tower close to the house to to build a single round tank on.



We would need planning permission and that opens a can of worms.
 
Jenny Ives
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The tanks could be smaller, they could even be round. Maybe 1 meter high by 45cm diameter and 3 of them would fit along a reinforced concrete plinth that needs to be built anyway on top of the wall to lift the roof up.

Our old neighbour, and from what we witness in the area, tells us we can go up with the building by 5 meters.  So if the walls could support another story/2nd floor I guessed it could have  supported tanks. If weight is distributed.  

The thing with plastic barrel under tin roof is the water may start breeding bacteria as it might get too hot.  In which case we could insulate the barrels perhaps.  
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I would not put a tank of any size on my roof.  The weight of the water could be down right exciting ....add in the weight of the tank and the problem gets worse.
 
Jenny Ives
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John F Dean wrote:I would not put a tank of any size on my roof.  The weight of the water could be down right exciting ....add in the weight of the tank and the problem gets worse.



When I was growing up all the houses we lived in (Africa) had 150 litre water geysers for hot water.  
 
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Where I live (Brazil) most homes have large water reservoirs either up under the roof (masonry houses, right on top of a reinforced set of walls) or outside on some sort of special platform, if there is any question about the ability to bear weight. Keep in mind, no earthquakes here. I have a 500L tank in my roof, which is a good amount, but I've seen 1000L tanks as well.
Most of these tanks are made of plastic nowadays, concrete would be exceedingly heavy.
And just thinking out loud- that metal roof looks hot, my plastic reservoir sits on about 8 inches of concrete/brick, has a few feet of airspace above it, and then is covered by a row of concrete tiles, so the temperature doesn't fluctuate much. If the water gets too hot you're risking its drinkability.
If I were in your space, and had the means, I'd build some sort of independent structure next to the house (or maybe even uphill of it) but not on it. Like some sort of elevated cistern.
Do you know what neighbors have?
 
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Tereza Okava wrote:Where I live (Brazil) most homes have large water reservoirs either up under the roof (masonry houses, right on top of a reinforced set of walls) or outside on some sort of special platform, if there is any question about the ability to bear weight. Keep in mind, no earthquakes here. I have a 500L tank in my roof, which is a good amount, but I've seen 1000L tanks as well.
Most of these tanks are made of plastic nowadays, concrete would be exceedingly heavy.
And just thinking out loud- that metal roof looks hot, my plastic reservoir sits on about 8 inches of concrete/brick, has a few feet of airspace above it, and then is covered by a row of concrete tiles, so the temperature doesn't fluctuate much. If the water gets too hot you're risking its drinkability.
If I were in your space, and had the means, I'd build some sort of independent structure next to the house (or maybe even uphill of it) but not on it. Like some sort of elevated cistern.
Do you know what neighbors have?



Oh that helps and I will google basil water tanks.  

Metal roof is going to be hot which was one of the reasons I thought cement option for better temperature stability of water.  We need to cap off the rock wall with cement/concrete to reroof and it will have metal bars for support. So I thought while we are up on the wall getting it ready for the roif and before the metal goes on put up water cistern. 1000 litres is too ambitious and we get by on 20 litres of water a day.  When you have to pump water, purify it, contain it and carry it around it's amazing how little we use.
 
Tereza Okava
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if you search for "caixa d'água" you should find some interesting ideas, "caixa d'água laje" will show more about specifically putting it on a concrete subroof (there is some crazy stuff out there with people putting them on wooden beams, electrical poles, and other similarly nutty situation, don't look too closely at that). Most people with less structurally sound situations (wooden construction, no concrete subroof,etc) will have a 200-250L tank max.
If you're pulling from a well, there is probably no reason to have much more than this- we have 500L because we deal with frequent public water outages and rationing. Also when you choose where to put it, keep in mind you'll want to get in there and clean it every so often (worst household chore ever).
 
Jenny Ives
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Tereza Okava wrote:if you search for "caixa d'água" you should find some interesting ideas, "caixa d'água laje" will show more about specifically putting it on a concrete subroof (there is some crazy stuff out there with people putting them on wooden beams, electrical poles, and other similarly nutty situation, don't look too closely at that). Most people with less structurally sound situations (wooden construction, no concrete subroof,etc) will have a 200-250L tank max.
If you're pulling from a well, there is probably no reason to have much more than this- we have 500L because we deal with frequent public water outages and rationing. Also when you choose where to put it, keep in mind you'll want to get in there and clean it every so often (worst household chore ever).



Thank you for the Brazilian phrase that will help.  
I realise now and on further reading of 'loft' water tanks that we need to have good turnover of water.  So a much smaller tank.  And as you say a way of maintaining the the tanks cleanliness.  

I won't be drinking this water but we will wash body and dishes with it. We bring in drinking water from communal village tap but will also be making a cement bio water filter, which filters about 20 litres at a time and can be used intermittently.

We want to follow this design for drinking water.
https://img1.wsimg.com/blobby/go/db3f6246-68ba-44c1-9dc1-5cb368acf5a3/downloads/BioSand%20Water%20Filter%20Technology%2C%20Household%20Con.pdf?ver=1649374181673
 
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I would not put water tanks on my roof for reasons mentioned already. If at all possible, I would put them on level, stable ground as high above the house as I could. I’d regrade and/or build and foundation for it if necessary, and build large ferrocement tanks w screened light infiltration for a beneficial algae film that helps purify water (look up Geoff Lawton and Bill Mollison videos on this). My 2x12,000lt tanks that came with the house are plastic, but concrete would be preferable for the pH as you mentioned, as well as less leaching.

It may be more work and expense, but placing tanks uphill allows for gravity feed and better pressure than possible with just the roof height. You can also build the tanks taller if not under a roof, and the water pressure buildup starts at the waterline. It could also allow for water turnover with a solar powered pump (which is what we have) as any overflow could be fed through gardens, ponds, swales, animal troughs, or other biological functions that can help make your landscape more abundant, verdant, and fire resistant.
 
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i may have it in my own house, but I'm in an urban setting and that is how it has to be. That said, when we move out to our rural land, our water supply will be elevated but not within our living space. In the house it's anxiety-inducing, you need to have fail-safes in case of leakage-failure-breakage-etc, and if you have that much extra space uphill, why not build an outbuilding that doesn't involve the risk? You could even build a "pump house" type situation where your sand filter is located too, on the ground, pipe it in from there, and maybe even build a pergola or some sort of other thing to camouflage it.
 
Jenny Ives
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Ben Zumeta wrote:I would not put water tanks on my roof for reasons mentioned already. If at all possible, I would put them on level, stable ground as high above the house as I could. I’d regrade and/or build and foundation for it if necessary, and build large ferrocement tanks w screened light infiltration for a beneficial algae film that helps purify water (look up Geoff Lawton and Bill Mollison videos on this). My 2x12,000lt tanks that came with the house are plastic, but concrete would be preferable for the pH as you mentioned, as well as less leaching.

It may be more work and expense, but placing tanks uphill allows for gravity feed and better pressure than possible with just the roof height. You can also build the tanks taller if not under a roof, and the water pressure buildup starts at the waterline. It could also allow for water turnover with a solar powered pump (which is what we have) as any overflow could be fed through gardens, ponds, swales, animal troughs, or other biological functions that can help make your landscape more abundant, verdant, and fire resistant.



The house is on the highest point of the property in the corner. Rest of property slopes away, which is why I thought for house use a tank built in the roof on the wall would be useful for a little bit of luxury of water pressure.

But we are thinking in future we can catch rain water in the style of tank you mention. In the meantime we use the well as 'storage' aka supply.

Thanks for the pointer on taller structures creating pressure.  
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Tereza Okava
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Jenny Ives wrote:The house is on the highest point of the property in the corner.


Ah, I was hopefully looking uphill. Crumbs.
 
Ben Zumeta
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Ah, that is a lot tougher to work with.

It may be a non-starter, but it would be to your neighbor's benefit to have the fire risk mitigation benefits I mentioned for the property downhill of them (yours) that would be created by allowing you to build a tank on their property, or if you cover the costs to adjust the property line, plus what it's worth to them, to do so on your own. Fire runs uphill 6x faster than on flat ground, and the risks of failure are all downhill at your place.  I might bring up the idea of some sort of deal, but only if you have the right kind of relationship and get everything in writing.

My neighbor depends on a well that is technically on my land, but the well was also written into their deed as this is still kind of the wild west. So for the reasons mentioned (having neighbors with less fire risk) and just to avoid legal hassles and be a decent neighbor, we have allowed their use of it since we acquired our property a couple years ago from someone who had not done so. As long as they are not over-drawing, which it would be hard to do with the old, substandard equipment and silted up wellshaft that is there, it seems like the reasonable thing to do.
 
Jay Angler
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Jenny Ives wrote:

We would need planning permission and that opens a can of worms.

I hear you, and totally understand. Going a bit smaller over-all and spreading the load into multiple smaller tanks sounds like you're willing to compromise as best you can!

And wrote:

The house is on the highest point of the property in the corner. Rest of property slopes away

Permaculture is all about working with what you've got, and compromising to do the best you can.

And wrote:

I realize now and on further reading of 'loft' water tanks that we need to have good turnover of water.  So a much smaller tank.  And as you say a way of maintaining the the tanks cleanliness.

These are sounding like excellent ideas! I've got 3 "camping" water jugs - plastic and about 40 liters each, and I agree with Tereza that they're a pain to clean - not well designed at all for cleaning. Could you design a cement tank, but with a large clean-out bung that you can easily get your hand/arm through? Some cleaning could be done through the top, but I'd want some way to scrub and flush the bottom residue, and it would have to be done in a way that the water went where you want it to go - worth putting some thinking into this part!

Ben Zumeta wrote (among several other people):

I would not put water tanks on my roof  

No - and Jenny is not doing so either. She is trying to find the safest way to put it on top of a very wide rock and masonry wall, which she's planning to reinforce, as per

 a reinforced concrete plinth that needs to be built anyway on top of the wall to lift the roof up.

I will ask if it would be possible to plan the tank location/size/shape before the concrete is poured and consider weather you could embed some threaded rod so you can put some sort of a "cage" to secure the tank that is removable for cleaning. Possibly have a two-walled system with some sort of a raised pan to hold water if there's either a leak or an overflow. As Tereza said:

In the house it's anxiety-inducing, you need to have fail-safes in case of leakage-failure-breakage-etc

Let's help think of ways to make this as safe as possible because regardless of what you make it out of, the odds that at some point it will crack seems inevitable. When I spoke to Hubby about this, he mentioned that most "concrete" is porous to a greater or lesser degree. Thus, unless the "reinforcement" as per the link you gave, is stainless steel, it will rust, which causes expansion, which eventually will likely cause a crack. Plastic when exposed to heat and time, tends to get brittle and crack (although I continue to be amazed at the blue plastic barrels we have which seem to last a very long time. Cut the top off one of them and replace it with something  removeable to make it cleanable, insulate to keep it cool, and it may be a cost-effective answer.

As Tereza and Jenny have identified, loft water tanks are a very common thing in many countries. A friend of mine has visited Panama several times, and they are very common there also. North America has plenty of risks that we live with instead of fixing (lack of decent building practices for earthquakes and hurricanes are obvious ones!) on the hope that nothing bad will happen to us. I try to find permaculture solutions which help to lower bad risks, but use what we've got available to us.

Keep researching Jenny - I have faith that you can come up with a plan which is as safe as possible, as long-lasting as possible, as cost-effective as possible, and as functional as possible. Keep posting as your plans develop!
 
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Jay Angler wrote:Jenny Ives wrote:

We would need planning permission and that opens a can of worms.

I hear you, and totally understand. Going a bit smaller over-all and spreading the load into multiple smaller tanks sounds like you're willing to compromise as best you can!

And wrote:

The house is on the highest point of the property in the corner. Rest of property slopes away

Permaculture is all about working with what you've got, and compromising to do the best you can.

And wrote:

I realize now and on further reading of 'loft' water tanks that we need to have good turnover of water.  So a much smaller tank.  And as you say a way of maintaining the the tanks cleanliness.

These are sounding like excellent ideas! I've got 3 "camping" water jugs - plastic and about 40 liters each, and I agree with Tereza that they're a pain to clean - not well designed at all for cleaning. Could you design a cement tank, but with a large clean-out bung that you can easily get your hand/arm through? Some cleaning could be done through the top, but I'd want some way to scrub and flush the bottom residue, and it would have to be done in a way that the water went where you want it to go - worth putting some thinking into this part!

Ben Zumeta wrote (among several other people):

I would not put water tanks on my roof  

No - and Jenny is not doing so either. She is trying to find the safest way to put it on top of a very wide rock and masonry wall, which she's planning to reinforce, as per

 a reinforced concrete plinth that needs to be built anyway on top of the wall to lift the roof up.

I will ask if it would be possible to plan the tank location/size/shape before the concrete is poured and consider weather you could embed some threaded rod so you can put some sort of a "cage" to secure the tank that is removable for cleaning. Possibly have a two-walled system with some sort of a raised pan to hold water if there's either a leak or an overflow. As Tereza said:

In the house it's anxiety-inducing, you need to have fail-safes in case of leakage-failure-breakage-etc

Let's help think of ways to make this as safe as possible because regardless of what you make it out of, the odds that at some point it will crack seems inevitable. When I spoke to Hubby about this, he mentioned that most "concrete" is porous to a greater or lesser degree. Thus, unless the "reinforcement" as per the link you gave, is stainless steel, it will rust, which causes expansion, which eventually will likely cause a crack. Plastic when exposed to heat and time, tends to get brittle and crack (although I continue to be amazed at the blue plastic barrels we have which seem to last a very long time. Cut the top off one of them and replace it with something  removeable to make it cleanable, insulate to keep it cool, and it may be a cost-effective answer.

As Tereza and Jenny have identified, loft water tanks are a very common thing in many countries. A friend of mine has visited Panama several times, and they are very common there also. North America has plenty of risks that we live with instead of fixing (lack of decent building practices for earthquakes and hurricanes are obvious ones!) on the hope that nothing bad will happen to us. I try to find permaculture solutions which help to lower bad risks, but use what we've got available to us.

Keep researching Jenny - I have faith that you can come up with a plan which is as safe as possible, as long-lasting as possible, as cost-effective as possible, and as functional as possible. Keep posting as your plans develop!



Thanks, Jay for the encouragement.  The various responses including the 'no way hosa' responses have been helpful in developing my idea.  That wall is definitely going to host a water tank of some shape and size.  And as you've nudged some safety features.  It's slow going here so it will be a while before we finish.
 
Tereza Okava
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Jenny, there are two basic safety things (if the tank itself is in the dark i think it's got a life of 15+ years-- mine is 10 and aside from attic dust, looks like new)- one, the platform or pan is very slightly tilted for water to run off OUT of the house instead of into it in case of a leak. Mine would just go running out and escape under the roof, I've seen others that have a sort of guide to direct the water.
The other standard option stops the tank from overfilling (it fills with a float sort of rig, like a toilet tank)-- a hole and pipe installed at the top of the tank, like the safety escape in a bathtub, that drains outside. If the float breaks and it keeps filling, the excess water will drain off. Put it somewhere visible, because you want to make sure to see it if it's leaking, the floats only last so long.
 
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