Planting distance between fruit trees and N-fixing shrubs

I am planting an apple tree and a peach tree. I have N-fixing NM Locusts and Mountain Mahogany. What is the optimum distance to plant the N-fixers from the trees? I'll also be planting other plants like wax currants, comfrey, chives, lavender, sulfur buckwheat, globe mallow, prairie clover.  And an "orchard mix" all around and in between all the plants. Hoping to establish some nice friendly plant communities. Any and all advice gratefully welcomed.

That detail is available with research.
There are a number of Food Forest videos, ans that Steph bloke has good info.
Its not a simple single ansawer there is more detail involved.

John C Daley wrote:
Its not a simple single ansawer there is more detail involved.

Details like your location (how munch sun?), the soil conditions, and most importantly what are your goals?

You want the fruit trees come up ASAP? How tall do you want the fruit trees to get? Do you want to grow veggies in between? If yes, for how long?
Do you want a closed canopy or more svanah-like? Do you want to harvest the wood from the n-fixers, and if so, for what purpose?

Permaculture has a lot to give, because it takes more variables into account than what you get thought in most agrucultural books/courses,
and can therefore enable you to find a optimal solution for your specific situation. Big part of this is observation.

It's also worth considering access to your fruit trees. It isn't worth making the task of picking from them more difficult than it needs to be as, in my experience, we are all inherently lazy and it takes more motivation to push through a (potentially thorny) shrub to pick fruit than to walk down an open pathway and pick in a clearing.

Nitrogen, as with all nutrients, will diffuse outwards through the soil - carried by water or transported by other organisms. The closer to the source, the more nitrogen will be available. You can think of it as ink in a glass of water, at first it is concentrated in one spot but it spreads outwards with time.

It is worth considering the effect of a healthy mycorhizome in transporting nutrients to where they are needed. In a healthy, mature woodland, mycelium will actively move nutrients between trees and plants in exchange for sugars. You may be able to compensate for an increased distance between heavy-feeder and N+ fixers by encouraging fungi in the soil.

I like to plant very close together so the shrubs protect the soil even when they are still small. Then, chop a few of them when they grow, to make room. The support species are there to be chopped and fed to the rest of the plants in the forest.