I am imagining that the solution to all the problems would be as follows:
A) Controlling humidity. Having the greenhouse completely partitioned from the living space. You could still grow some plants in the living space, just not as many and with less water. For example, you could control the seasonal variations of light that so many plants respond to when completing an annual cyle of fruiting by using those growing pods--think oranges, apples, maybe even bananas, all of which I think come in midget varieties. No 420 jokes, please. Just use
LED lights and timers. Hook everything up to a computer to eliminate the hassle of manually adjusting everything every two weeks. To partition the greenhouse, just build another set of true vertical floor-to-celing windows. Use the largest panes of glass possible, as the framing will add to the shading already created by the framing of the outer windows. This way, your house is still getting most of the sunshine that makes it past the plants in the greenhouse. Remember, not all sunlight makes it past the glass, and having two panes of glass between the sunshine and atmosphere and the inner living area will cause the brightness to drop quite a bit. Consider a black or near-black color motif for the inner area to take maximum advantage of what sunlight does make it through in the wintertime. I've read ZED also, and although this idea doesn't conform with the total idea of ZED, it might be useful in an Earthship.
B) Controlling heat loss in the wintertime. Regular single or double-paned glass isn't your only option. There is a space-age material available to consumers called "Aerogel". This is a translucent, nearly-transparent insulation with an R-Value of 14. R-Value is a measure of how well a substance prevents heat from passing across it from a warmer zone to a colder zone. Fiberglass insulation has an R-Value of, I think, 4. The "good" spray-in insulations have an R-Value of 7. A double-paned window, standard, has an R-Value approaching 1. There is a company that produces windows with a layer of Aerogel, which I will again mention is nearly transparent, sandwiched between two standard panes of glass. I think the R-Value of these windows approaches 8. Again, you lose a bit more sunlight to the interference of the Aerogel layer, but this might be completely made up for by how slowly your house would lose heat at night. If you plan to have plants in the inner area, along the inner side of the inner partition of the greenhouse, you might consider leafy dark green plants like spinach, chard, and kale. They grow well in less magnificent sunlight.
C) Preventing temperature and humidity equalization with the atmosphere and the greenhouse. Use airlocks. Have an airlock that you walk into before walking into the living area, and have an airlock between the greenhouse and the living area. This idea is straight out of the ZED book.
D) More ideas for controlling temperature. Increase the height of the windows in front of the greenhouse, use the largest panes of glass possible to minimize frame shading, and depress the living area three feet below ground level. If you get the angle of the entire design just right, you will have more sunlight entering the living area, providing more heat in the wintertime. The depressed living area will take advantage of the constant temperatures of the Earth's surface. If you use a dark color motif for the floor, the building will absorb sunlight in the daytime. Have an engineer or architect (a good passive solar architect) take a look at this idea while you're designing your home.
E) A couple of awesome ideas from ZED about air-conditioning. Don't forget to avoid slanted glass for the greenhouse. Vertical only. You can tilt the house so its slightly running northeast to southwest to get more sunlight in the winter mornings, when it will be coldest during the day, and to avoid hot western sunlight in the summer. You should have a retractable black overhang, something you can adjust depending on variations, to block high-angle sunlight in the summer. This will mean your greenhouse won't be getting sunlight during the summer (a bit counter-intuitive from a horticultural perspective), so you might want to install a bunch of
LED bulbs in your greenhouse and run them off the solar panels in the summer. Also, check out the ZED book to learn about absorption-chiller air-conditioning. If you are looking for a reliable way to generate the high temperatures needed to fire the absorption-chiller, take a look at Home Power
magazine and the various articles there about parabolic solar troughs, which I've heard work great all year round and in low-light environments, too. The only electricity required would be that needed for the fluid pumps, probably less than 3KW a day. Very green, too. The main ingredient is ammonia, which can be recycled easily, and glycol, same. You could use your
hot water system as a heatsink for the absorption-chiller, and use the parabolic troughs for hot water and supplemental heating in the winter.
B) Batteries. There hasn't been much in the way of new batteries since 2009, when the LIFEPO4 batteries hit the market. If you don't want to manage a giant armored personnel carrier-sized set of lead acid batteries, you might want to consider Winston or Sonopoly. These are the main batteries on the market for DIY lithium-seekers, and can be used for stationary applications as well as electric vehicles. I don't know when newer, better batteries will become available. You might want to consider the Kolibri AlphaPolymer batteries, but I have been unable to contact the company that claims to make them. If they are real, and anything like reasonably priced, they would be a good 20-year solution.
Increasing horticultural food output. Consider aquaponics for the greenhouse. They use 90-95% less water and produce spectacular results. While I'm at it, consider a Clivus Multrum toilet to conserve water and produce AAAAA++ fertilizer for your plants not growing in the aquaponic system. Also, since your greenhouse would ideally be completely partitioned from the living space, consider carbon-boosting. If anyone shows interest in this post reply, I will dig up all my links for carbon-boosting, Aerogel windows, and the Kolibri batteries, etc. If you're interested in a supergreen toilet, visit the Clivus Multrum website (it might be CLIVIS).
Looking forward to continuing the discussion.