All three? Does that mean you're getting three of those heaters, or that you have two other heaters? How high are your ceilings?
I've heard a decent estimation is 15 x Volume of Space to Heat = BTUs required. So if you have an area of 1500 sq ft and 8 ft ceilings, you have 12,000 cubic feet to heat. 12,000 x 15 = 180,000 BTU. Is this right? The Emberglow says it runs at 30,000 BTUs. But this is also subject to a lot of other considerations, like insulation, surface area, how divided up your space is, and what materials your space is surrounded by.
i was going to purchase 3 . and locate them in the center line of my basement evenly spaced apart It is a 1920's house so all the Windows have cold air returns my thought was to insulate ceiling and walls . and shoot for convection . I should point out im looking for an alternative to forced air. But i also want to leave my house for a weekend in the winter
mekennedy1313 wrote: Nope, they still emit CO2, you can't breathe that.
But the legislature of Utah has declared CO[sub]2[/sub] to be "essentially harmless." Are you saying you trust scientists more than legislators?
"the qualities of these bacteria, like the heat of the sun, electricity, or the qualities of metals, are part of the storehouse of knowledge of all men. They are manifestations of the laws of nature, free to all men and reserved exclusively to none." SCOTUS, Funk Bros. Seed Co. v. Kale Inoculant Co.
Insulating is a good idea; be careful to use vapor-permeable materials or you may get mold problems. With those lovely older houses ventilation really is pretty good, and that helps keep the walls dry.
With a CO detector / CO2 detector installed, you might get away with indoor exhaust appliances. They're scary, but our ancestors survived indoor hearth fires too. They kept one eye on them though, and I'd suggest putting the heat where you are, rather than out of sight.
But it seems a temporary and inefficient solution. Natural gas is getting more costly, and scarcer.
Convection is only one step removed from forced air: heating air is what all the calculations of BTU's are about, and they're expensive.
We like thermal mass and radiant heat: passive-solar, masonry heaters or central fires (oven or masonry-chimneyed fireplace), maybe some radiant floors. Hot water bottles. Warm the people, and a few convenient storage objects, rather than the air. Convection can spread the heat to inconvenient places, but you want the core to be warm of itself.
We haven't gotten a chance to do a big basement Rocket Mass Heater yet, though the plans are underway. But friends with older houses have had good success with geothermal, heat pumps, and solar.
i plan to build a rmh Next year but i don't have the time at the moment. as far a thermal mass i dropped all of the old plaster ceilings so i could insulate so im using all the plaster as thermal mass to fill the central walls
My thoughts are of concern for indoor air quality as well.
I have yet to check out the layout of these appliances.
My theory would be something like, just because they aren't built with a vent, doesn't mean that you can't modify and add both a vent, and a fresh air intake.
I did something similar to this with a cheap 30 gallon gas water heater. I didn't want it using my heated indoor air for combustion and also having the standard open chimney that can suck heat out of ones home 24/7.
So, luckily this water heater had a sealed burner area and open venting on the bottom. I eliminated the draft vent on the top and simply connected the 3" vent pipe direct. On the bottom I took simple sheet metal and covered both the vents, sealed with caulk. On one I installed a 4" (one size larger) crimped collar. To this I merely ran standard 4" ducting (insulated) to a fresh air intake from outside. That worked great.
Most of time, I had the water heater on pilot and was amazed how much heat just the PILOT gives off. I was comfortable taking a shower with that water.