R Ranson wrote: Or is the carbon lost as the plant matter becomes soil again?
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One of the main issues as regards carbon storage is the impact of tillage on the soil, which would tend to mitigate against annuals.
One of the reasons barley (and other grains) have become shorter over the past couple of thousand years is that there is a tradeoff between stem length and grain quantity.
the next thing to flag up is that livestock are inefficient producers of protein (this is basic ecology), and convert much of your carbon back into carbon dioxide and methane (which is a more powerful greenhouse gas than CO2). Animals do not fix carbon: they consume and convert it. If you feed your maize to livestock, you are most definitely better off planting a food forest. This may be informative: https://theconversation.com/going-veggie-would-cut-global-food-emissions-by-two-thirds-and-save-millions-of-lives-new-study-56655 This includes some transport emissions, but these are around 11% of agricultural emissions, so the general principles remain.
Tyler Ludens wrote:I think there's also the issue of people just not being used to eating perennials, except for fruit and nuts.
R Ranson wrote: If we have a sudden change in weather that kills off most of our perennial plants, then what will I eat while I try to grow more perennials?
Idle dreamer
Tyler Ludens wrote:
R Ranson wrote: If we have a sudden change in weather that kills off most of our perennial plants, then what will I eat while I try to grow more perennials?
People generally claim that perennials are more resilient than annuals.
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R Ranson wrote:
Is this tillage as in machine done, or hand work?
.R Ranson wrote:
Most of our compost is trenched, so the soil is disturbed only to dig in the organic matter - then immediately planted with the annual crop. So, harvest a crop, dig a 2 foot deep trench where the crop was, fill 12 to 20 inches with organic matter, then cover with the soil. The organic matter is the unwanted bits from the harvest, mauer and semi worm composted household scraps. Would this method limit the carbon loss?
R Ranson wrote:
One of the reasons barley (and other grains) have become shorter over the past couple of thousand years is that there is a tradeoff between stem length and grain quantity.
This is really neat. Is this for hand harvest as well or only for machine harvest? What influence does weather patterns have on this?
R Ranson wrote:
the next thing to flag up is that livestock are inefficient producers of protein (this is basic ecology), and convert much of your carbon back into carbon dioxide and methane (which is a more powerful greenhouse gas than CO2). Animals do not fix carbon: they consume and convert it. If you feed your maize to livestock, you are most definitely better off planting a food forest. This may be informative: https://theconversation.com/going-veggie-would-cut-global-food-emissions-by-two-thirds-and-save-millions-of-lives-new-study-56655 This includes some transport emissions, but these are around 11% of agricultural emissions, so the general principles remain.
I don't want to get into the whole diet issue with you (we are both very passionate about it, I know, and I respect you too much to have a falling out on this).
R Ranson wrote:
I do however feel this statement does not do justice to livestock raised in a permaculture setting. I am curious how this applies to my small scale subsistence farming where my sheep are mostly for wool and only eat their meat if they sustain injury, age or defect that would otherwise cause them suffering. The article you linked to is a great read and very interesting, however, the numbers used in it seem to be from industrial scale agriculture and I'm uncertain how it applies to low density, small scale sheep flock?
They also seem to be the numbers used for meat-only animals raised on un-traditional foodstuff like grain and soymeal which of course are going to emit more gas. I know I sure do when I don't eat my natural diet.
George Monbiot wrote:The figures are so high because this form of husbandry is so unproductive. To produce one lamb, you need to keep a large area of land bare and fertilised. The animal must roam the hills to find its food, burning more fat and producing more methane than a stalled beast would.
R Ranson wrote:Does it take into account the benefit that manure can have for the soil? I've been doing some very unofficial experiments the last few years where I plant the same crop side by each, but giving the two sections different amendments. One side gets only vegetarian compost and the other includes mauer. My unofficial experiments show an improvement of about 30% for the side that receives the manure over the one that gets only vegetarian compost. If the manure is helping the plants grow faster, than would that move sheep closer to the plus side of carbon farming?
R Ranson wrote:Does it take into account the environmental impact on clothing? A sweater from my flock would have a lower eco-impact I think, than a synthetic one that traveled to four different countries during it's manufacturing process.
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This is basically my plan as well. The annuals will be in open spaces between perennials and paths. They will be on hugul beds, and right up against, under, and climbing the perennials.What I have considered doing is incorporating glades and clearings containing annuals as patches in a bigger forest garden.
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.R Ranson wrote:
Most of our compost is trenched, so the soil is disturbed only to dig in the organic matter - then immediately planted with the annual crop. So, harvest a crop, dig a 2 foot deep trench where the crop was, fill 12 to 20 inches with organic matter, then cover with the soil. The organic matter is the unwanted bits from the harvest, mauer and semi worm composted household scraps. Would this method limit the carbon loss?
TBH, I don't know. It's a legitimate method of composting, and the layer of soil might I suppose decrease carbon loss through that soil, but I'm doing little more than guessing here.
I do know that a lot of the breeding work over the past couple of thousand years has been to increase the quantity of photosynthate going into the parts of plants we can eat as opposed to the bits we can't.
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I completely agree, particularly for those of us who live in areas where the choices for edible perennials are not as abundant. I will comment below on clothing as well.It would be great to explore how we can incorporate annuals into a carbon farming scenario.
This is a matter of technique. Many annuals can be transplanted into perennial soil systems with minimal disturbance to the soil structure, thus eliminating tilling and mitigating most carbon loss.One of the main issues as regards carbon storage is the impact of tillage on the soil, which would tend to mitigate against annuals.
I'm not sure if tilling it under is the best way to gain the most carbon. Planting a crop of peas or squash in the corn patch would start to bring the stalks down and turn the stalks into a loose mulch, for long term sequestering of carbon. Additionally, dead stalks left vertically provide habitat for insects and spiders, attract more birds to roost at that height (which might not come into the garden that was tilled flat, (and they provide their wonderful wastes), and also attract birds specifically to hunt insects.carbon sequestration per hectare per year varies by a factor of ten in temperate forests. That puts it in the same sort of range as the amount of carbon sequestered by maize provided it's ploughed back into the soil:
I understand the the carbon loss/tilling aspect of things has to do with the soil structure being broken up, and air coming into contact with carbon storage, thus accelerating the aerobic microbial activity to burn carbon. Any technique that minimizes both the exposure to the soil microbes to the air, and the breaking up of the soil structure (living ecological community) the more carbon sequestering potential you have. I would suggest experimenting with using harvest waste as mulch (or putting it on the soil surface under mulch), instead of digging it in. I do plant my squash plants on top of a manure pit, but generally do not put this stuff underground. I would generally recommend compost application on the soil surface where nutrients are added by Nature, rather than two feet down.I think that Tyler was very accurate in with these statements:Most of our compost is trenched, so the soil is disturbed only to dig in the organic matter - then immediately planted with the annual crop. So, harvest a crop, dig a 2 foot deep trench where the crop was, fill 12 to 20 inches with organic matter, then cover with the soil. The organic matter is the unwanted bits from the harvest, mauer and semi worm composted household scraps. Would this method limit the carbon loss? Does that even count as tillage? The soil is disturbed and the weeds manually removed.
Neil wrote:Humus is a stable portion of carbon in soils, so it seems to me that if our diet is largely based on annuals (as most probably are), using those growing methods which produce the most humus would sequester the most carbon.
Most people eat annual plants, for many reasons, and although there are perennial food plants in many climates, these are dramatically reduced as a person travels poleward, or in some cases up in elevation. For instance, I would be very interested to see a really good plant based diet that can be grown at my latitude from perennial plants. As much as I search, Zone 3 edible perennials are pretty hard to find, and those I can locate do not as a group allow a very complete diet. Where I live it's either eat some meat or eat some annuals, or both. I know of no native population at this latitude that lived vegetarian let alone survived on perennial plants.many people think they can only grow annuals because of their climate because they don't know about the perennials that would grow in that climate. I don't know about your climate, but suggest further research. There are plenty of perennials that grow in most climates.
I'll bet there is a corn variety that would thrive in your climate without much water.Corn/maze is delicious, but we don't grow it here. Too difficult without irrigation.
I think it's a matter of two things: choosing the barley that is right for your climate, and building soil fertility so that your barley roots will thrive and thus are going to provide maximum carbon in your soil.Is it as simple as choosing a barley with a longer stem?
First, it is great to honor family and tradition. Yay for you for keeping family techniques alive; so much has been lost. Now I'll diverge: I know people who till in heavy crops of irrigated cover crops, and definitely improve their soil organic matter/fertility annually, but the fact that it worked does not mean that it is necessarily the best practice to maximize the use of those nutrients, or mitigate carbon loss.I think it must have worked because the fertility of the soil seems to have improved over the generations.
This is likely not going to be found!--particularly when wet. In your region, shredded cedar bark was woven with mountain goat wool for clothing and blankets. Hemp, flax, and nettle are the best choices for fibre plants in temperate climates as far as I know.But there just aren't plants that grow a warm enough fibre to compare to wool.
Cotton is not a fibre that provides much warmth, and it is in fact used in hot climates for cooling. Cotton in hydrophilic, drawing moisture (sweat, rain.. etc) and can be problematic promoting hypothermic cooling effect in a cold setting.perhaps expanding the range that cotton can grow for instance
I think that you are thinking correctly about the taller kale fixing more carbon, particularly as I suspect that the larger plant also had a large root system to support it. I don't think that you are oversimplifying, but in my opinion, I think that you should focus on the varieties that suit your tastes and your garden climate, while enhancing your focus on the techniques/solutions that will boost soil fertility that S Bengi and Eric T mentioned.This year I grew two kinds of kale, one grew 6 inches tall, the other less than 2 feet. It takes about 12 months before cut down the kale and compost the stalks. The year before, I grew kale that was 6 foot tall and had stalks up to 2 inches wide. I don't have a tree that can grow that big in 12 months in our environment. Am I right in thinking the bigger kale captured more carbon from the air? Could the choices we have in the variety we grow have an influence on how much carbon we capture? Or is this oversimplifying it too much?
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Roberto pokachinni wrote:I would be very interested to see a really good plant based diet that can be grown at my latitude from perennial plants.
Idle dreamer
I'll bet there is a corn variety that would thrive in your climate without much water.
This is likely not going to be found!--particularly when wet. In your region, shredded cedar bark was woven with mountain goat wool for clothing and blankets. Hemp, flax, and nettle are the best choices for fibre plants in temperate climates as far as I know.
Cotton is not a fibre that provides much warmth
Idle dreamer
There are people that grow corn where I live, as well as in Yukon and Alaska. It's not as easy as in Chilliwack, or Mexico, but I believe it's possible to get or develop the varieties that will suit your place.It's lucky that corn isn't as daylight sensitive as say cotton, but we are still a bit far north.
I don't know of specific varieties, but I do know of corn that grows with very little irrigation in the desert of south central Utah. Perhaps ask Bryant Redhawk? Do you have a lack of water for potential irrigation, besides your rainfall issue?If you know of a corn that can tolerate this kind of drought, please let me know.
I had forgot about the use of dog hair there, but still I do believe that wild mountain goat wool was gathered and used on Vancouver Island and on B.C.'s Coast. The cedar bark was used as a bulking agent and to form the weft to weave the wool in, not necessarily as a fibre for warmth on it's own.Actually, pre European contact, it was dogs 'wool' that was used for clothing. Goats weren't really a thing here.
I agree, particularly with linen. I have no personal experience with nettle fibre clothing but have read great things about it being used in Europe for superior 'linens' and for clothing, as well as, of course, nets-which is primarily what native people used it for. And nettles were native on this coast and in America, as far as I know.Hemp, flax and nettle are great next to the skin, but they do not provide the same warmth that wool does in clothing.
Really? I've not ever heard that they were introduced. I'd really be interested to know more about this; as I have always assumed that it was native. It grows way deep in the wild, wear I live. Can you point me to the right link? I was just mentioning those plants as fibre crops that could be grown in your climate, and could be used to make clothing, not that it would be more practical than wool, or as warm. Not much, in my opinion is as great as wool for warmth, including synthetics. I don't think that cotton is warmer than hemp, but agree that cotton is far more commonly available, and more likely to be used in this regard by clothiers. I would not choose cotton for any winter clothing, except oiled/waxed as an outer shell (Duckback). I wear layers of wool all winter. The cotton Carhart's I wear as pants over wool leggings are there for spark and abrasion protection for my work on the railway. The cotton in them is great for these reasons, but I believe hemp would be better if it was more available, and I understand that linen and nettles both have a reputation for being stronger woven fibres than cotton. Unfortunately the milling world has not stepped up to the task of utilizing these temperate fibres, or I think that the common perceptions would be much different. Generally the cloth fibre industries rose out of the slave plantation system and factory systems, and were based on crops from warmer climates.Weather or not nettles are pre-contact is currently up for debate.
I agree. Wool is by far THE superior fibre for warmth. Down is great, but sucks when wet-as do most natural batting like cattails. If I was to even attempt to make my own cloth from nettles, hemp, or linen, I would likely not focus at all on developing cloth for warmth, but for durability.On the home scale wool v. plant fibre, the energy input is simular per cloth produced, however, one would have to produce 4 to 20 times as much plant cloth to come close to the warmth wool provides (depending on the method of production and structure of the cloth).
It might be alright if it was obviously really dried and was covered by a shell that was totally waterproof, like tightly woven cotton, nettle, or hemp that was oiled and waxed. Cotton is one of the most destructive crops to grow in so many ways, but can likely be grown in a healthy way in a very specific climate. I've not heard of anybody attempting it very far north at all. I largely avoid purchasing it, unless at the thrift shop--which is where most of my clothing comes from.I wonder if a plant fiber fabric with cattail insulation (like a down jacket) would be a thing to try. Not good for wet climates, though.
"Never doubt that a small group of thoughtful, committed citizens can change the world; indeed, it's the only thing that ever has."-Margaret Mead "The only thing worse than being blind, is having sight but no vision."-Helen Keller
Me too. But I doubt that it would be possible for anybody to even come up with theoretical diets with a realistic idea that people would eat only that. Maybe if people were forced to for some reason, but it seems unlikely to me that in a temperate climate they would pass up carrots, or potatoes, or grains, or many other annually produced plants, if they knew they could grow and process them without damaging the earth significantly. I think that Emilia Hazelip proved it could be done quite well. From my limited experience with her techniques and with other techniques that might improve her system, I think that there is certainly a place for annual plant production in permaculture, in carbon farming, and in both temperate and even tropical food forestry.I would like to see examples of perennial plant-based diets for all regions, especially non-tropical, that people are actually eating in their every day lives. I'm not sure we can make much of a case for perennials unless we actually eat them.
"Never doubt that a small group of thoughtful, committed citizens can change the world; indeed, it's the only thing that ever has."-Margaret Mead "The only thing worse than being blind, is having sight but no vision."-Helen Keller
Eric Toensmeier wrote:In tillage agriculture humus burns up, both conventional and organic. Cover crops, crop rotations, and compost application can keep levels pretty decent though. No-till systems including mulching are far better in terms of carbon though difficult to operate organically at a mechanized scale.
from Ohio State University This description of it being widespread in North America has been verified in my travel experience. Although it is an invasive spreading plant that becomes abundant in waste areas, I have seen it in swamps and along darkly shaded forests in wilderness areas that were many kilometers from village sites or fishing sites. Possibly this was from wetland birds dropping seeds?Origin and Distribution:
Stinging nettle is a bristly, stinging perennial that is extremely variable in its morphology. Two varieties exist in North America. The most common variety (Urtica dioica var. procera) is native, while an uncommon and more bristly type (Urtica dioica var. dioica) was introduced from Europe, possibly for use as greens. It is difficult to distinguish between American and European varieties; however, the introduced variety is rarely encountered. Stinging nettle is widespread throughout the eastern U.S. and in most counties in Ohio. This weed thrives in damp, nutrient-rich soil and does not grow well where soil nutrients, especially phosphorus, are low. It can be found in pastures, nurseries, orchards, neglected yards, waste places, roadsides, flood plains, stream banks and ditches, as well as along the edges of fields and woodlots where it tolerates partial shade. This species does not tolerate saline conditions.
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Yes annuals are very important to carbon farming. As a general rule they don't sequester as much as perennials, but things like multi species cover crops have been used with great success. As a general rule of thumb if you combine multispecies covers with no-til then you end up with a gain rather than a loss of carbon in the soil.R Ranson wrote:I've been reading these threads with great enthusiasm. It's been great learning so much from you all.
I've noticed that most of these posts are about perennials when talking about carbon farming.
What about annual plants?
Sure, I grow trees, but I also grow grain and food for myself, and fodder for my livestock. Most of these plants are annuals (partly because they are the tasty ones, and partly because that's what my climate can support best). Surely these crops also utilize carbon from the air?
Is there no place for annuals in carbon farming?
How can I improve my choices of crops to sequester more carbon? Or is the carbon lost as the plant matter becomes soil again (via worm, sheep or composting)?
Is it as simple as choosing a barley with a longer stem?
"Permaculture is a philosophy of working with, rather than against nature; of protracted & thoughtful observation rather than protracted & thoughtless labour; & of looking at plants & animals in all their functions, rather than treating any area as a single-product system."-Bill Mollison
Exactly. If you are interested, I may have a breakthrough for that very thing, scalable mulching. And of course besides that, the roller crimper is another way a bit different than I am developing. It is scalable. The third which I also use is the perennial living mulch that gets mowed instead of tilled.Eric Toensmeier wrote:In tillage agriculture humus burns up, both conventional and organic. Cover crops, crop rotations, and compost application can keep levels pretty decent though. No-till systems including mulching are far better in terms of carbon though difficult to operate organically at a mechanized scale.
"Permaculture is a philosophy of working with, rather than against nature; of protracted & thoughtful observation rather than protracted & thoughtless labour; & of looking at plants & animals in all their functions, rather than treating any area as a single-product system."-Bill Mollison
One of the reasons barley (and other grains) have become shorter over the past couple of thousand years is that there is a tradeoff between stem length and grain quantity. It's not quite as simple as SLxGQ=k, but in general the shorter the stem, the more grain you get.
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