David Nightingale wrote:Howdy, superb topic. Brakes and Roofing I leave to the best professionals I can find, as loss of either is final. Just reroofed 24 year old house 2 years ago with architectural singles. I wanted metal, but the contractor had an interesting take. Much of the plywood, truss, vents needed to be changed first . It seems modern houses have condensation issues? A bit too airtight. Interested in long term roof here in PNW. 22” snow in 4 hours to 112F roof surface temp same year…
I'm curious as to the contractor's logic here. My first thought is he just prefers to work with shingles..
Metal roofing installed on purlins/battens, without a solid roof deck below, would have more condensation than shingles on planks/ply. But I have never seen this used on a house.
I would expect really limited condensation on the underside of clicklock/standing seam roofing on a solid roof deck, the impact of which which should be mitigated by the underlayment in between the ply and the metal roofing. There just isnt a lot of access for air to get in there. That condensation should not be impacting the inside of the attic at all. If there is a concern about it, like on an unusually low slope, the fix would be drainage matting as underlayment, or double strapping to create a vented space between roof deck and metal..
Condensation on the underside of the plywood is possible, in the right weather.. I've seen it here, on an open sided covered deck with clicklock over plywood, when there was snow on top but rapid warming. I am not sure that shingles would have stopped this, but the plywood dried out fine. Given the attic in a properly built house should be well air-sealed from the living space, very occasional moisture here seems pretty low risk given adequate ventiliation. If the roof is steep enough to shed snow, this will limit the possibility of this condensation occurring in the first place.
Increasing the size of the ridge vent is as simple as a couple of long circular saw cuts on the peak ply. And both soffit and ridge vents are going to be required regardless of roofing type.
Perhaps this guy uses the plastic spongelike filler pieces at the ridge vent, to block bugs and wind driven rain/snow? They certainly drastically reduce airflow. I used perforated z-flash with a very large peak flashing to let plenty of ventilation occur..